Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Too much weight forward of the axel on a bolt together trailer.
The interior of our 'drop tends to get loaded up with a lot of additional bits and bobs. This last trip we added some new ones. Fancy mats for under the awnings. Straw that broke the Camel's back.

Photo 1 the problem. The top of the C rail is tearing away.



Photo 2 the solution part 1
Add reinforcing (after unbolting and turning over the rails. I also welded the tear even though it now has no load)



Photo 3 the solution part 2
Replace 9kg gas bottle on draw bar with 4 kg behind the mud guard.


The last important change is what I do with the load. I used to fold the mattress so the front third of the floor was exposed for load and the shelves kept the mattress in place. Now the mattress goes against the front wall so more load can go over the axel.

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I've seen photos of that same failure on at least two of the Northern Tools trailers. (They probably came from the same factory.)

At least one of them did the repair by running bolts all the way through and adding pipe spacers.

So don't feel alone.

Tony

Was going to say, loading over 15% total trailer weight on the ball is a mistake that affects tracking and can be dangerous,

but that issue is an inherent design, materials fault

and/or using the trailer past its EoL point

Nice recovery!

tony.latham wrote:I've seen photos of that same failure on at least two of the Northern Tools trailers. (They probably came from the same factory.)

At least one of them did the repair by running bolts all the way through and adding pipe spacers.

So don't feel alone.

Tony

Yes I considered that same solution good to know it works too.

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John61CT wrote:Was going to say, loading over 15% total trailer weight on the ball is a mistake that affects tracking and can be dangerous,

but that issue is an inherent design, materials fault

and/or using the trailer past its EoL point

I think you are right about the design fault as my tracking while towing has been constantly faultless.

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If you have access to a welder why not box in the c channel and greatly increase its strength. That aluminum angle is a bandaid at best


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BigDave_185 wrote:If you have access to a welder why not box in the c channel and greatly increase its strength. That aluminum angle is a bandaid at best


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It's actually galvanized iron and not aluminum. It was a quick and easy solution. Finding plate of the right size was not as simple

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tony.latham wrote:I've seen photos of that same failure on at least two of the Northern Tools trailers. (They probably came from the same factory.)

At least one of them did the repair by running bolts all the way through and adding pipe spacers.

So don't feel alone.

Tony

When I was considering this same bolted trailer, I thought I'd do that when I assembled it, and make the bottom plate contribute some strength from the beginning.
They market these as ideal for teardrop trailers, but the method of attachment of the drawbar and hitch has always seemed a bit delicate.
Still Edge's trailer has been around a long time, a bit of reinforcing will see it do a few more years.

Still Edge's trailer has been around a long time, a bit of reinforcing will see it do a few more years.

You may have taken my comment wrong. I'm confident this trailer will work for you for decades. With a little help.

Tony

tony.latham wrote:

Still Edge's trailer has been around a long time, a bit of reinforcing will see it do a few more years.

You may have taken my comment wrong. I'm confident this trailer will work for you for decades. With a little help.

Tony

I think we are in complete agreement. I am pretty literal. I simply took your comment to mean that, out of the thousands of trailers sold, one or two have failed.
I was actually referring to my own comment - I perceive the drawbar design and attachment as a bit of a weak point, but I'm confident that a bit of reinforcement (a little help) will see it lasting quite a bit longer yet.

After reading this thread I think I'll make a preemptive strike and reinforce mine like this before it goes into use. It looks like good cheap insurance to me.

My build has been delayed, and the floor is still not on the trailer, so I have easy access to the frame. I think I will run it the full length of the angled frame sides.

I tow with an economy car and my camper is very light in total. I find that not having a tongue jack keeps me very aware of my tongue weight. I have a stand with a ball that supports my tongue when not attached to the TV. I have to lift it off the hitch and place it on the stand by hand.

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Thanks a lot for sharing.
What was your tongue weight before failure? I'm assuming in this case it's the absolute weight that matters (in terms of causing failure) rather than %

bartek wrote:Thanks a lot for sharing.
What was your tongue weight before failure? I'm assuming in this case it's the absolute weight that matters (in terms of causing failure) rather than %

Unfortunately I can't tell you as I never measured it.

I like Friz's method though. If you can lift it by hand it should be ok.

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