Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

You also have a nice Home to keep that crazy white stuff off.

Tom&Shelly wrote:

twisted lines wrote:I Should be painting the flat roof on mine this week, I already know it's going to puddle
When I glued the roof on and put a few hudddous on top when it qured, there is a low....

We have the same problem with our teardrop. Luckily, I have GERD, so we'll be cranking the front up a few inches, so most of the rain should run off onto the galley hinge, and then down one side or the other.

We hope!

Tom

Can also always tip in down a bit if there are no hinges to the front.

tony.latham wrote:

ptulli wrote:Would making it like a "#" idea be enough for the cross blocking/framing then?

I'm not sure what you mean.
There's no reason to put blocking between hatch spars since the sheathing acts as a gusset. If that is what you are asking.
I've never built a flat-backed camper. The problem that I would anticipate is keeping the hatch from twisting.
Tony

Hi Tony,

I was referring to something like this, again nothing in scale.



But if the sheathing will hold it, I can take out the blocking. Though I may need some for where the lights will go, cause I don't think that 1/4 or 1/8" plywood will be strong enough to hold them put. Or am I wrong there too? LOL! Just trying to figure it out, this hatch is a pain. The other question is will 2 or 3 inches from the top be a good enough gap to put the hinge on? how much room do I need to leave on the sides and bottom as well? Just not sure what size to make the hatch. I'm a making my camper 5wx8Lx4H

Though I may need some for where the lights will go...

This is how I add blocking for the light and exterior fixtures inside the hatch.



As far as hatch clearances, I use 1/8" on the side. But you need to figure out your seal system first and your hinge. I think you need to explore what others have done for flatback hatches.

Tony

I already know it's going to puddle

Show me a campsite that is perfectly level on both planes and I'll give you a cold beer.



As Tom said, you can always give the jack a couple of cranks. But a spot that looks flat ain't flat.



Tony

tony.latham wrote:

Though I may need some for where the lights will go...

This is how I add blocking for the light and exterior fixtures inside the hatch.
As far as hatch clearances, I use 1/8" on the side. But you need to figure out your seal system first and your hinge. I think you need to explore what others have done for flatback hatches.
Tony

Thanks Tony, I like the blocking idea! I been looking through google and not having much luck. I shall continue the search, I appreciate the help!

Hey guys, been a while it's been crazy around here and with prices up on everything this took a backseat to other stuff. I have been thinking and working on idea. This is my latest frame design. 5x8 and a 18" front storage spot that I'm gonna use for the electrical spot and additional storage. I am not sure on the spacing for the cross members and design of the tongue. I am going to run the main part of the tough all the way for a possible recovery. Any ideas? Am I on the right track? Thanks guys!

Torsion bock construction is supper strong at a reduced weight.

It's a grid work of, for example, 2x2's with your plywood glued and screwed both side.

My portable work bench, made from scrap off the job site, is 24x60" made of 1.25" ribs on a roughly 12" grid layout, skinned with 1/4" on the bottom and 3/8" on the top. nearly 0 defalcation with me bouncing on it at 175 lbs.

6 coats of clear finish and it has been caught in many rain storms in the back of my truck and it is still flat as a, wait for it..

board.

Sorry I meant by the cross members on the trailer it self. The torsion construction you mentioned for the flooring it how I plan on building that part. I am trying to figure out how best to design the trailer for now, then work on the box after that. I would like to put a water tank under the floor and a spot for possible storage as well. Nothing too deep but enough to put the RVQ in it and water. I will put skids on it for I will be off-roading with it, so gotta keep it protected.

Sounds like a really cool project. Have there been any updates since then? When it comes to framing the walls and roof, using a combination of materials could be a good idea. While 1x1 metal tubes can provide extra strength, you might want to consider using them strategically in areas where the weight distribution is crucial. This can help ensure the overall structure is sturdy without adding unnecessary weight. Btw, you should consider using Hardshell Roof Top Tents. Just make sure to factor in the added weight when designing and building your trailer, so it doesn't exceed your Jeep's tow rating.

JanetSnow wrote:Sounds like a really cool project. Have there been any updates since then? When it comes to framing the walls and roof, using a combination of materials could be a good idea. While 1x1 metal tubes can provide extra strength, you might want to consider using them strategically in areas where the weight distribution is crucial. This can help ensure the overall structure is sturdy without adding unnecessary weight.

Hi Janet,

Including advice in your very first post is generally considered poor form. Have you built a teardrop? Did you use some sort of metal tube? What kind of metal? Just saying "metal tube" is vacuous, as different metals behave very differently.

This sounds an awful lot like poor advice from an AI program that doesn't undertand the full context, because it was queried by a spammer who intends to wait until we move on, and then add a link to an irrelavant web site. Is that you?

Edit: True to form, the spammer added a link to a hardshell tent site. Given the method of advertising, I would stay away from the linked seller!

Tom