Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

I'm building a 5x9x4(H) square drop and have mulled how to do a rear door for about a month now.

Top open hatch: Top of trailer is only 5.5' above the ground so it will be very difficult to stand under the hatch to do any cooking.

One large side open hatch: Challenger Doors/Vintage Technologies has a 48x40 door, but it only seems to work for a rear storage space.

Van style doors, (like Levi Mize's design) seem to be the way to go though!

So - how does this design look? Using regular RV style trim w/ hatch seal.

Side hinged doors don't float my boat, but each to his own.
Your seal arrangement might leak at the point where the horizontal piece meets the vertical piece.
I would apply standard roofing techniques, whereby your upper piece always overlaps the lower piece to prevent water entry.

Hope my little sketch makes sense.

Also, you can have a top hinged hatch, and the height if you want, though it is probably not as simple to build.

Did you see how rowerwet built his latest foamie back door? It still has the hinge in the back, but hatch shape creates more height when open.

I am hoping to keep the dirt out to!
Next time I would find it much more enjoyable to buy the door

A drip edge at the top is a good idea too. Think of the seals as a last resort against water and dirt infiltration and design to keep as much water away from them as possible.

*Inside wrote:I'm building a 5x9x4(H) square drop and have mulled how to do a rear door for about a month now.

Top open hatch: Top of trailer is only 5.5' above the ground so it will be very difficult to stand under the hatch to do any cooking.

MickinOz wrote:Also, you can have a top hinged hatch, and the height if you want, though it is probably not as simple to build.

* I opted for a top-hinged hatch, figuring that the heavy weight of the hatch door, a single piece of 3/4" plywood (49.25' tall x 48" wide), would eventually cause sagging if mounted to the side (i.e., like on an old Camaro...). With attached hardware, the hatch weighs over 50 lbs., so it would've required a single continuous "piano" hinge, but instead I wanted to use gate hinges. I use three hinges on each door(under 20 lbs each), to prevent sag, so if I had mounted the hatch sideways-opening, I would've needed to use 5-6. As-is, it hangs nice& securely on three.

*

* The top of my trailer is 73.5" above ground-level (24" frame height + .75" floor + 48" wall height + .75" roof thickness), so I can stand underneath with the hatch raised to 90 degrees, but I chose to use prop bars to lock it into place at either 105 degrees or 110 degrees, to clear space for taller folks, or if on uneven ground. I grew tired of lifting it and holding it up while inserting the hold-up props (I had a bad rotator cuff at the time, still do, somewhat), so I added a gas-spring to help... http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=61432.

* The top-hinged hatch has served me well over the years, and with a waterproofed seal between roof and hatch, it is a good cover from sun & rain, when opened. I've needed to use bulb-type D-seals and spring-loaded right-angle latches (2 sets) to keep it sealed against dust, but it never had a problem with water intrusion. I'm sure a manufactured hatch would've been better, but mine is fine now.

I built my square drop like Mick described. The hatch is L shaped and is hinged 12 inches into the roof. The hatch is then 12 inches higher than the camper when opened. It makes a neat roof to stand under. I hung a curtain from the hatch and made a private stand under to change clothes. We now erect a pop-up canopy over the hatch. It makes a nice 10 x 10 sitting room.

Tt

Tomterrific wrote:I built my square drop like Mick described. The hatch is L shaped and is hinged 12 inches into the roof. The hatch is then 12 inches higher than the camper when opened. It makes a neat roof to stand under. I hung a curtain from the hatch and made a private stand under to change clothes. We erect a pop-up canopy over the hatch. It makes a nice 10 x 10 sitting room.

Tt

Yes it does

Ugh. I keep wavering between designs. I kind of want to do an L-hatch, but I'm worried it's going to look janky. Much of the rigidity of a teardrop hatch comes from the shape - with an L-hatch it'll have to come from the material

I'd really rather do a teardrop hatch, but I'm concern that it will take a very long time to do it.

Don't stress mate.
Last time I looked, there were no actual rules.
Do whatever works for you.

*Inside wrote:Ugh. I keep wavering between designs. I kind of want to do an L-hatch, but I'm worried it's going to look janky. Much of the rigidity of a teardrop hatch comes from the shape - with an L-hatch it'll have to come from the material

I'd really rather do a teardrop hatch, but I'm concern that it will take a very long time to do it.

*Inside wrote:Ugh. I keep wavering between designs. I kind of want to do an L-hatch, but I'm worried it's going to look janky. Much of the rigidity of a teardrop hatch comes from the shape - with an L-hatch it'll have to come from the material

I'd really rather do a teardrop hatch, but I'm concern that it will take a very long time to do it.

There will always be a solution, just need to look for it a little bit more. How about ghcoe #1 build hatch for inspiration?
http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?t=54099#p984564
And hatch starts at Page 12: http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=55&t=54099&start=165#p1021536

I made my hatch out of Revolution ply. If ever there is a flimsy tear material, this is it. The strength comes from 1 x 3 and 1 x 2 furring strip battens and surrounds. The square back sides are cut 45° one foot in and one foot down to make a gusset to support the L. It is so light weight I can easily lift it with one hand, and I am not a strong person.

A problem I ran into, and solved, is a barely leaking Hurricane hinge. The hinge will not work in a flat orientation. I ran a 6 inch strip of sheet rubber over the hinge and extended it an inch over the side. I would now suggest a piano hinge with the rubber cover.

Tt

I had a very bad experience with Revolution Ply. If it gets wet and stays wet for any length of time, it will delaminate. Constant vigilance is required.