Hurricane hinge help!

[MJS613]

Hi Guys,

Been awhile since I posted, as it has taken me a lot longer then I wanted to do work on the trailer but real life sometimes gets in the way. It has come a long way since my last posts, but we want to take it camping in about 3 weeks so the final push to get things done is on. So I need to replace my hurricane hinge as when it got installed we neglected to leave an overhang so I am going to be ordering a new one to install. My question is this, I have a flush one on there now, and it has been pointed out that I might need a offset hinge. As it is sitting now the hatch door doesn't sit right, now I did have to replace the roof piece that the hinge connects too so I am thinking that I might of left it too long and it might need to be trimmed back. Here are some pictures for reference any suggestions would be great as I need to get this hinge ordered and installed.

[MJS613]

would only let me post 3 pics

[linuxmanxxx]

Some kind of spacer under the hinge and between the hatch would lower the hatch.
Steve

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[dmdc411]

Looking at your pics, the hatch hinge looks to be the correct length. The body half needs to be long enough to extend 1/2" beyond each side wall. I tapered mine leaving the body "hinge loop" the full half inch longer on each side. Then to keep the hinge halves from moving side to side, I put a pop rivet thru the body loop next to the door hinge. Remember the body hinge portion is quite a bit longer than the hatch hinge. Then when finished, fill the end of the hinge with a little sealer to keep water from migrating in.

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[MJS613]

unfortunately the hinge doesn't have any part hanging over the sides. I have to take the trailer to a few places this week so after I do that I will take the hinge off and see how the hatch sits, but I want to order the new hinge soon as I have a very limited time to get it here and installed. So I am trying to figure out if I need the flush or offset hinge. Once I get the hinge sorted out then I have to work on getting the sides and bottom sealed.

[pchast]

Looking at your first couple of pictures, I'm wondering why the hinge is not installed flat on the upper section. It seems to stand proud of the cabin at that point.
If that was set deeper into the joint would the cover flex enough to remedy the difference in the curve when pulled tight at the bottom?

[Woodbutcher]

I agree with Pete. Slide the part of the hinge that sits on the roof, forward till it is flat on the surface. If you want a cheap fix that will save your current H hinge, take a look at this plastic piano style hinge. It is sometimes called a forever hinge. https://www.teardroptrailerparts.com/hi ... -trim.html Part # HT101

After you reposition your hinge to get the galley lid flat, put one side of the hinge right in front of the hurricane hinge on the roof. Allow the other side of the plastic hinge to slide over the knuckle of the h. Hinge. This will create a gutter. Extend the hinge at least 1" over the each side of the trailer. Even with the hatch in the up position water will shed off the sides without coming into the galley. You do need to keep the plastic hinge flat all the way across. Some elastomeric caulk under the hinge when you screw it down will make sure that no water gets under the hinge. I would also fill the gap under the H. Hinge once you have it in the right place so water is not sucked in when driving. After you get the hatch in place check out the gasket choices they have and pick one. All of their gaskets compress quite a lot.

Good luck,

[MJS613]

Hi Guys,

Thanks for the answers, I did notice that the hinge isn't totally flat on the roof, I had to replace that piece of wood on the roof so I am thinking I didn't cut it back quite enough when I replaced it, I was going to do that once I got the new hinge. But that rubber piano hinge might do the trick to save the current hurricane hinge. For the plastic hinge do I put one side over the screws on the h.hinge or put it in front of the h.hinge on the roof? I have some butyl tape on the way for the h. hinge would that work for the rubber hinge?


Thanks,
Matt

[swoody126]

IMG_0733-2.jpg (52.79 KiB) Viewed 699 times

the house /main half of the hinge appears to be bent upwards at the aft end

the rubber cover also appears to be standing a bit proud in the middle

from this pic there appears to be a slight ledge that the lip is resting on which could have something to do with the fit/raised hatch issue

not being able to see better i question if there are screw holes/screws mounted thru the lip into the mounting board from aft to prevent the hinge from bending upwards

i realize screwing into plywood edge grain presents issues butt they might be worth the time/effort to address

as for the end overhang is concerned i'm following the comments making notes

GOOD PICS of the issue !

sw

[tony.latham]

the house /main half of the hinge appears to be bent upwards at the aft end

Good catch. I'm wondering if the hatch blew over at some point?

Tony

[Woodbutcher]

Hi Guys,

Thanks for the answers, I did notice that the hinge isn't totally flat on the roof, I had to replace that piece of wood on the roof so I am thinking I didn't cut it back quite enough when I replaced it, I was going to do that once I got the new hinge. But that rubber piano hinge might do the trick to save the current hurricane hinge. For the plastic hinge do I put one side over the screws on the h.hinge or put it in front of the h.hinge on the roof? I have some butyl tape on the way for the h. hinge would that work for the rubber hinge?


Thanks,
Matt

I think you would have to see when the hinge arrives. Ideally it would be best in front of the hinge as long as the other end can rest on top of the H. Hinge. You will need to remove the insert molding. The hinge should come longer then you need. Cut a few inches off to play with. The best look and function would be if you could cut the leg of the plastic hinge to fit in where the screws are and the insert molding goes. Then screw through both pieces at once. Make new holes, and fill the old holes with butyl tape for insurance. I would also straighten that hinge that is bent. Now keep in mind this is not the ideal fix, a new hinge is. But if done right, it should work fine.

[MJS613]

There is no screws pushing up the hinge, I think it's just the edge isn't flat, I might take the router to it to shave a bit off and make it nice and flat. But that raises my next question is if the hinge is bent or not and if it is will it go back to flat. Once the weather cools down a bit I will take it all off and have a good look at it, a bit too hot this week to be doing it. But I am thinking that maybe it would be best to just order a new hinge to know it is done right. Now should I stick with the flush mount hinge or go with the offset? Guess I will be going out today and take the current hinge off and snap some pics for you guys so you can better see what is going on.

[tony.latham]

I might take the router to it to shave a bit off and make it nice and flat.

You need a 3/8" gap between the hatch and the spar in order for the hinge to drop in place. It doesn't look like you've got that. Speaking of which, what are your spar dimensions under the hinge? And what's the wood?



Tony

[MJS613]

Hi Tony,

So I think the spar is the cross piece of wood, I believe it is a 2x2 wood on the roof and the hatch is 2 1x3 if that is what you are asking? and the wood for the roof is bendy plywood not sure what it is actually called.

[MJS613]

Ok went back and looked at some pictures and the cross piece that the hinge screws into on the roof is actually a 2x4.