Anyone use this door lock/handle

[Capebuild]

Hello.... I'm thinking of using the door lock/handle shown in the attached. I'm asking if anyone has used this product and has any thoughts you can share.
This type of lock seems, to me, to have less "stuff" sticking out of it (like the exposed lock box and big handles on the interior). I also like that it has the deadbolt in addition to the retractable catch.

Thanks.
John

[swoody126]

John, that is the same assembly that i've had on 2 travel trailers and my common white cargo trailer as well as dad's older motor home

the top key hole activates the deadbolt and the bottom one only locks the latch

they are commonly in stock in locksmith's service vans and frequently can be had as 2 sets w/ the same key as on my current 2-door travel trailer

one key ... plumb handy

as long as you provide them w/ a sound jam for the striker plate and frame for the assembly you're good(all my experiences with them have been w/ metal wall and door framing)

sw

[aggie79]

We used a similar door lockset. They are a little tricky to install, though. I would recommend building a "practice" assembly the thickness of your door to figure out how to cut the openings for the lockset, and particularly the latch extension part. Rather than cut a mortise for the extension, I cut a channel and used a strap on the interior of the door to help retain the lockset.

[KCStudly]

+1 on the practice piece. My doors are thicker than Tom's, and I did not do the open strap thing. But a did have to file a few notches bigger than the basic rectangular rough opening, and bevel the inside edge of the slot where the latch bar part of the casting has to make the turn during installation. By doing a test piece I was able to creep up on these features and still be sure that everything would be hidden under the integral trim flange.

A couple of router templates (one for the pocket cutout and one for the bolt slot in the jamb) made it easy to accurately trace the rough cuts, and then to guide the finish cuts.

Note that the latches are not left and right opposite hand, so one gets installed deadbolt up, and the other deadbolt down. Everyone reassured me that you are only on one side of the trailer at a time, so you won't really notice the lack of symmetry.

Once I had the pair in hand, yes keyed alike, I realized that there are no seals at the outer paddle hinge, nor where the bell crank on the paddle reaches inside to trigger the latch mechanism. You can basically see straight thru an air gap from outside in. While the inside pull tab flange plate fully covers the rough opening in the door, I became concerned that water would enter thru the air gap, settle unseen in the pocket cut out in the door, or worse, pass all the way thru to the inside. However, Tom^ assured me that he has never had any leakage of this nature. I haven't put mine into service yet, but don't see how the design can preclude this. My plan is to seal all of the wood pocket surfaces well with epoxy resin (so if water gets into the pocket it doesn't rot the wood); and to file a little weep slot in the door face behind the trim flange at the bottom of each latch (and not apply the gasket or sealant at that spot) so that any water that gets in has a way to get back out.

Another thing, I was able to order "for thick doors" (mine are about 1-3/4 inch thk... hybrid foamie). Supposedly the differences are a little longer length in one of the castings (so that the lever mechanism can still reach from the inner piece to the outer... or vice versa... crs), and longer screws so that they can sandwich thicker doors. The screws that came with mine were not long enough for the advertised thicker door size (nor mine), and were a special "tri-lobe" self drilling/self tapping style. It was easy enough to replace them with similar, yet longer UNF std. screws and hand tap the thread boss holes to suit. I was a little concerned about tapping the white pot metal casting, but it turned out fine lubricated with a dab of kerosene (old machinist trick... kerosene works great as a lubricant for drilling and tapping aluminum).

[TimC]

Good points on the mock up version to get your lockset to fit before starting on the final install. It is well worth the effort.

And the fact they are not left/right versions only comes into play when locking mine with the key. One deadbolt will lock with the key turning left and the other will lock with the key turned right. Not a problem, just something to think about so the key is not forced the wrong way and possibly snapped off.

Another reason for having two doors... there was a recall on certain sets a few years ago where they would not unlock. I had one and had to crawl out the opposite door and get tools to disassemble it from inside. Had to order new lock inserts as the Mfr didn't believe me that my later insert models were faulty. They were adamant that the new inserts were not in the recall record so would not be faulty. They aren't real pricey so I just swallowed the cost and moved on.

The moral of that story is always have a Phillips screw driver in the cabin.