Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Has anyone tried doing a paper mâché style PMF covering on their project. My idea would be to cut strips may be 12“ x 24“ then laying them out after they’ve been saturated in Tightbond. I realize my trailer would be covered with random seams.
However, corners and roof edges should be simple to cover, and the possibility of wrinkles might be almost 0. After they are initial layup, and several coats of paint, I would think the result would be the same as using large cumbersome pieces.
The big drawback of course cutting a trillion pieces of fabric. Has anyone attempted this?
Or have I simply lost my mind.

In my foamie building group over on farcebook some have taken to using kraft paper instead of canvas for PMF with great results. 3 - 6 layers provides a strong and relatively smooth surface with barely-noticeable seams.

Just Mike wrote:Has anyone tried doing a paper mâché style PMF covering on their project. My idea would be to cut strips may be 12“ x 24“ then laying them out after they’ve been saturated in Tightbond. I realize my trailer would be covered with random seams.
However, corners and roof edges should be simple to cover, and the possibility of wrinkles might be almost 0. After they are initial layup, and several coats of paint, I would think the result would be the same as using large cumbersome pieces.
The big drawback of course cutting a trillion pieces of fabric. Has anyone attempted this?
Or have I simply lost my mind.

As mentioned, the idea has been floated to use paper mache several times, using something other than fabric.

I think you are over estimating how hard using large sheets of canvas is and how often wrinkles happen. If you read several foamy builds, you'll see that everyone manages.

It will definitely work. You'll have to have large overlaps to guarantee you'll get the necessary "sock effect" that holds everything together. But will you be happier with the end result?

Paper of any type WILL wrinkle. Also, as the coating over top of the paper gets things like small pebbles and even rocks thrown at it, it will make small slits in the coating and the paper will get wet. Be certain to use some epoxy on the surface and let it sit a few weeks before you attempt to glue the paper on, as epoxy will out-gas some. The epoxy will help protect the surface and the paper and subsequent coating will protect the epoxy from UV rays. Note: if you are applying your paper to foam, you won't need epoxy, but there is no telling what will happen when water gets in there.

I put down a kraft paper floor 12 years ago and it is still okay. However, there are small cuts in the polyurethane (12 layers) where drops of water get in just a bit. However, it doesn't hurt the wooden floor, and the water dries quickly. (I would be worried if I hadn't prepared the surface with epoxy first.) Kraft paper is thick, and it still wrinkles, but that was a feature for my floor. Paper will wrinkle more than sheeting or canvas ever would. below is a picture of my floor when it was first applied. You can't see the wrinkles in the photo, but take my word for it, they are there. With anything, you will have to work to remove the wrinkles if you don't want them.

It would "work" but I think that the amount of fray you would have to deal with would be extreme and I personally wouldn't be happy with the visual look.

I also think after doing it myself that doing 120"x60" pieces wasn't that hard with just my self and a few tricks.

[quote="Just Mike"]...
I would think the result would be the same as using large cumbersome pieces.
.../quote]

I've done four teardrops with PMF with large pieces of canvas and even during my first one the results were very nice and not hard to lay. I did three of them by myself. The key is to not do the glue/canvas application in the sun on a hot day. TBII is very forgiving if done in the shade. I think it was George (ghcoe) who gave me some pointers on handling large pieces of canvas.