Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

I purchased this new to me 4x8 TD and was planning to modify it to my liking. The sides had a wood grain finish which was nice but the veneer had a few cracks. So at the moment I'm in the midst of sanding it down, repair the cracks and then re-stain. The previous owner wasn't too handy so there was some neglect showing..

I noticed that at the ends of the rear hatch piano hinge he had placed some "Flex Seal" as he said there was a leak. I've read that for proper drainage that the "L" bracket channel running on top of the hinge must extend past the roof line to prevent water from sitting and creating a leak situation. There is a black plastic strip the runs along the edge of the roof that sits higher then this "L" bracket preventing a clear run over the side for draining, it would need to be bent to go over so then it wouldn't drain as intended. The Flex Seal has stopped the leak but it's a messy looking job that was done..

Question: What would be the best direction in attacking this..? Best to perhaps remove the Flex Seal that was applied then reapply it once again but nicer after cleanup..? Is there a better product to use other then Flex Seal..? Any thoughts on how to attack this..?

Replace the hinge with a longer one that extends over the sides. Trim the plastic corner piece to make the new hinge fit.

All the water coming off the roof is directed at that corner so you are asking some caulk to handle all that water. Worse yet, it looks like the sides extend up to the level of the hatch (the hatch is flush) so the hatch seal is seeing a lot of water from the roof. Replacing the hinge would get most of that water away from the hatch seal.

As PMullent mentioned, the hurricane hinge has to protrude beyond (and in your case, through the trim) about a half inch.



You can buy a new hinge at https://www.teardroptrailerparts.com/hinges.html

Tony

So in my case I would need to cut thru the trim so that the hinge would extend beyond by 1/2"..? That wouldn't cause issues with the trim be cut in that manner..? I've read where others have mentioned that the plastic piano hinge was prefered over the aluminum, correct..?

Vintage Technologies (America's Largest Supplier of RV & Teardrop Trailer Parts) in Union City, Michigan is about a 2 hour from me. Might be best to take a drive and discuss with them on what they'd feel is the best approach at repair..

Thanks for the tip and the link..

So in my case I would need to cut thru the trim....

Cut the top portion off and leave the horizontal leg.

I tried a plastic "living hinge" on a tongue box. It lasted three years. There's not one commercial teardrop manufacturer using them.

Tony

cdnred wrote:So in my case I would need to cut thru the trim so that the hinge would extend beyond by 1/2"..? That wouldn't cause issues with the trim be cut in that manner..? I've read where others have mentioned that the plastic piano hinge was prefered over the aluminum, correct..?..

I think you'd have less problems sealing the trim to the edge of hinge. That trim piece may just be cosmetic. No telling what's under that trim piece but it should be bedded in something like sikaflex.



I have a "live" plastic hinge on mine and it's held up for a decade. But others have had them fail quite soon.

I don't know how much trouble it would be to switch in your case. They aren't especially good looking on an aluminum clad tear.

Here is a video that shows how to notch the hinge for a Bushwhacker to solve the same problem you have with yours.

to solve the same problem you have with yours.

But I don't think he has a rain gutter? Eh?

Tony

tony.latham wrote:

to solve the same problem you have with yours.

But I don't think he has a rain gutter? Eh?

Tony

Hard to tell from the pictures what's hiding under there. I don't think you can see the gutter on the Bushwhacker when the hatch is closed. In either case, the video shows how to notch the bottom side of the hinge, which I think has to be done here. The OP just has to leave the top piece long enough so the run-off does not run back inside. Whether it runs off the side of the trailer or into a gutter should not matter.

It looks like the hinge sits above the edge trim on the right side, but on the left side, the trim seems to be higher. Almost looks like it curled up. Maybe some sealant under the hinge and a well placed screw will hold it down and make it water tight.

I sent off an email to Vintage Technologies to get their suggestions on a repair and hinge type to use. Below is their suggestion for getting over the roof trim without having to cut thru. Seems simple enough and looks like it'll do the trick. From the pic of the profile, it shows a flat bar running along the roof side to raise the hinge above the roof edge but no flat bar on the hinge side. Doing it this way would raise the hatch side by the thickness of the flat bar. I would've thought that they would've placed a new flat bar on both sides of the hinge to keep the profile the same as before. They're showing a new MT34 Offset T Molding on the hatch side so perhaps that would seal off the sides of the hatch along the roof trim when closed..

Seems simple enough and looks like it'll do the trick.

I trust the staff at Vintage, but I think you have gotten bad info. As you said, that will raise the hatch 3/8". It won't work.

Cut the top of the trim and do it right.

Tony