Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

I'm just in the planning stages. Want to build a square back/drop. My wife is very short I'm tall. I don't think she'll be able to reach if it opens up to close back.. was thinking of getting a 270 awning attached to roof rack that would cover side and back and have back open horizontal.. however that's a lot of weight so was.wondering if anyone had any thoughts.

Also, is there a search function that I missed? I couldn't find it to see if this has been already asked. First build of this but have built porch, 3 season porch, entire basement remodel (kitchen bathroom bedroom etc.) all by myself. Thinking 5*10 built trailer from 2" 11 ga steel square beams. Haven't decided on type of axle yet.


Edit: of course once I post the search bar appears at least on.my phone, earlier on my computer no search bar.

dardack wrote:.......... I don't think she'll be able to reach if it opens up to close back.. was thinking of getting a 270 awning attached to roof rack that would cover side and back and have back open horizontal.. however that's a lot of weight so was.wondering if anyone had any thoughts....

I assume you mean the back door swinging sideways rather than up. I have that on mine and I'll give you my experience. First off, it does put some stress on the body. If you plan to have a back wall to the cabin, make sure it's well secured because the door will introduce a racking force to the back end. The wall that separates the cabin from the galley will be structural so solidly attach it to the sides.

Secondly, that door can blow around in the wind. I had to rehinge mine so I could swing it all the way around (270 degrees) to bungee against the fender when open.

The solution to both those problems is to make double doors. That way the weight is carried on both sides (and less weight of each to boot.) Since each door is narrower, they can swing flat against the sides and so easier to secure. More to do to seal and secure, but you don't need lifters. You could introduce some mechanism to lock them at 90 degrees when open which would shelter the galley from the sides if you want as well.

Pmullen503 wrote:

dardack wrote:.......... I don't think she'll be able to reach if it opens up to close back.. was thinking of getting a 270 awning attached to roof rack that would cover side and back and have back open horizontal.. however that's a lot of weight so was.wondering if anyone had any thoughts....

I assume you mean the back door swinging sideways rather than up. I have that on mine and I'll give you my experience. First off, it does put some stress on the body. If you plan to have a back wall to the cabin, make sure it's well secured because the door will introduce a racking force to the back end. The wall that separates the cabin from the galley will be structural so solidly attach it to the sides.

Secondly, that door can blow around in the wind. I had to rehinge mine so I could swing it all the way around (270 degrees) to bungee against the fender when open.

The solution to both those problems is to make double doors. That way the weight is carried on both sides (and less weight of each to boot.) Since each door is narrower, they can swing flat against the sides and so easier to secure. More to do to seal and secure, but you don't need lifters. You could introduce some mechanism to lock them at 90 degrees when open which would shelter the galley from the sides if you want as well.

Yeah I thought about double door. Wasn't sure I wanted to go that route. Why I hoped someone had some experience with 1.

I was going to have a back wall and pocket screws all the way around and make sure there is a support piece in the 2 walls either side to secure and top and bottom..

Well... traditional teardrop galley hatches have worked superb for eighty years.



Something to consider.

Tony

tony.latham wrote:Well... traditional teardrop galley hatches have worked superb for eighty years.



Something to consider.

Tony

Oh I know and I told my wife to buy me your book for christmas. I just like look of square drop and wife mentioned she wanted square drop herself just looking at examples of small trailers. IDK. Right now I'm just trying to plan it all, heater, a/c when have shore hookup, portable tankless propane water heater, small pump, etc.

I did want to thank you, your posts and plans are a big help. Already taking your trailer plans and adapting. BTW, I noticed on one of your posts (but was so old I didn't want to necro it) that you had like an extra bar for your lights on the rear of the trailer (at least the picture looks like it's an extra bar). If you go over this in the book, I can wait, just curoius what that was. Also I did want to ask, i've seen your posts with your 11lb propane in front with the regulators on the box, 1. They won't rust? 2. Did you run the hoses under the trailer and no concern for damage from road? (I think you mentioned rubber, not black steel, I was thinking of doing black steel under and just repainting once a year).

that you had like an extra bar for your lights on the rear of the trailer (at least the picture looks like it's an extra bar). If you go over this in the book, I can wait, just curoius what that was.

I installed a bumper on the rear to protect the hatch if need be. That's where I installed the lights and there's a photo of it in the book.

Also I did want to ask, i've seen your posts with your 11lb propane in front with the regulators on the box, 1. They won't rust? 2. Did you run the hoses under the trailer and no concern for damage from road? (I think you mentioned rubber, not black steel, I was thinking of doing black steel under and just repainting once a year).

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Regulators are made for exterior applications. Rust isn't an issue. The propane hoses are rubber--as recommended by my friend who was a professional propane guy for thirty years. There's no question in my mind, it's the way to go. You could use black pipe, but every joint is a potential leak point and you'll have lots of elbows. Rubber is easy and it's not a problem with flying rocks.

And about building an angular teardrop. Angles are harder than curves and not as strong. (And if you go to the beach, you'll find they are better looking. ) I seldom see a squareback with a great galley. And to me, what defines an individual teardrop, is the galley.





But... build what makes you two happy.

Tony





Tony

tony.latham wrote:

And about building an angular teardrop. Angles are harder than curves and not as strong. (And if you go to the beach, you'll find they are better looking. ) I seldom see a squareback with a great galley. And to me, what defines an individual teardrop, is the galley.

But... build what makes you two happy.

Tony

I appreciate that. I understand a curve has no joint in it so it's stronger. She has seen the hiker trailers and loves how it looks. I suck with online cad, so I've drawn some stuff on grid paper.

Honestly I'm realizing I have to buy most of the stuff I want in it (heater/water pump/water jug/cooler/electric small fridge (she's glutten and dairy allergy and most of her stuff has to be refridged properly)/etc.) so i can get weights/dimensions and determine where axle goes and everything else.

BTW I'm going to be buying that axle I think you used, Dexter Torflex 9, 2000lb. I see when ordering they want an angle so I guess when you put weight it drops more, how do you determine the angle you buy? Also another reason to weight to build stuff is figuring out weights and were everything will go to figure out where axle will go so tongue weight is 10%-15%.

Regardless my 1st kid about to enter college, second not far behind. I'm planning now so in a year or 2 I can get to building and travel with just the wife.

tony.latham wrote:Regulators are made for exterior applications. Rust isn't an issue. The propane hoses are rubber--as recommended by my friend who was a professional propane guy for thirty years. There's no question in my mind, it's the way to go. You could use black pipe, but every joint is a potential leak point and you'll have lots of elbows. Rubber is easy and it's not a problem with flying rocks.

Tony

BTW, they make a flexible hoses for propane that have a braided metal sheath for extra protection. That's what we used and it works fine. Found it on Amazon (but now when I go to "past purchases" it's showing something different, so I can't give you a link, but there are others on the site). It was a foot or so longer than we needed so we snaked it around under the tear a little.

But, we've found the underside of the tear doesn't take as much abuse as we'd expected.

Tom

Tom&Shelly wrote:

tony.latham wrote:Regulators are made for exterior applications. Rust isn't an issue. The propane hoses are rubber--as recommended by my friend who was a professional propane guy for thirty years. There's no question in my mind, it's the way to go. You could use black pipe, but every joint is a potential leak point and you'll have lots of elbows. Rubber is easy and it's not a problem with flying rocks.

Tony

BTW, they make a flexible hoses for propane that have a braided metal sheath for extra protection. That's what we used and it works fine. Found it on Amazon (but now when I go to "past purchases" it's showing something different, so I can't give you a link, but there are others on the site). It was a foot or so longer than we needed so we snaked it around under the tear a little.

But, we've found the underside of the tear doesn't take as much abuse as we'd expected.

Tom

I was thinking I needed UL21 cause DOT reg's? IDK. I was going to run it inside PVC pipe to give it protection under trailer if not using black steel. Do you just use U mounts to run it under?

I made a single side swing door, for my 1st trailer with 2000 lb springs (build light),
Has a 750 lb capacity, 270 deg awning,
walls are 1.5” , manufactured doors have molding’s ? trim for them,
not Sure about 2” walls.
Vintage trailer? Has a finished rear door that is on my wish list #2

tony.latham wrote:Regulators are made for exterior applications. Rust isn't an issue. The propane hoses are rubber--as recommended by my friend who was a professional propane guy for thirty years. There's no question in my mind, it's the way to go. You could use black pipe, but every joint is a potential leak point and you'll have lots of elbows. Rubber is easy and it's not a problem with flying rocks.

I second that. Or, more appropriately, my brother seconds that.
He is a commercial plumber and had the same advice for me.
He offered a middle ground, as well - essentially what used to be, and might still be done for motorhomes and some travel trailers: A short section of iron pipe serving as a manifold, from which copper lines run to each propane appliance.

--

From my aviation experience, I will tell you that stainless braided outer sheath is not recommended. It will pick up grit and chafe the rubber hose, as well as anything the sheath is touching. Boring ol' rubber is better in the long run.

I definitely would not run any propane line inside PVC pipe. You have no way of inspecting the hose, and it is more likely to cause chafing than to prevent damage. And if it develops a leak, you have however much of that pipe to act as a reservoir as a fire/explosion hazard, and to delay discovery of the leak.

BTW, they make a flexible hoses for propane that have a braided metal ...

From my book:

I had planned on running black steel pipe for this but after a fair amount of midnight reflection, I recruited a friend who has installed propane systems for nearly thirty years. He suggested using rubber propane line for the heater but was flummoxed by the high pressure needed by the stove. I explained that propane wasn’t any different than bottled water. He disagreed. We ended up selecting steel-reinforced rubber line designed for propane-powered vehicles. In his world, it’s called “braided liquid motor fuel line.”

But that's just for the so-called high-pressure line. 26 PSI.

Tony

I was thinking I needed UL21 cause DOT reg's? IDK. I was going to run it inside PVC pipe to give it protection under trailer if not using black steel.

I think you're overthinking this. It doesn't need to be in PVC pipe. Just like your tires, rubber takes a beating. The hoses are connected to the bottom of my floor using adel clamps.

Tony

tony.latham wrote:

I was thinking I needed UL21 cause DOT reg's? IDK. I was going to run it inside PVC pipe to give it protection under trailer if not using black steel.

I think you're overthinking this. It doesn't need to be in PVC pipe. Just like your tires, rubber takes a beating. The hoses are connected to the bottom of my floor using adel clamps.

Tony

Yeah and the steel reinforced that you mentioned for stove is UL 21, so that would work. Thanks. I forgot about adel clamps, easy thanks again.

BTW I see you put a RV window in your door, but if the door is only 3/4" (I think that's what your door is based on the build thread), did you special order it? Cause most I find are 1 1/2".

tony.latham wrote:

I was thinking I needed UL21 cause DOT reg's? IDK. I was going to run it inside PVC pipe to give it protection under trailer if not using black steel.

I think you're overthinking this. It doesn't need to be in PVC pipe. Just like your tires, rubber takes a beating. The hoses are connected to the bottom of my floor using adel clamps.

Tony

It's easy to over-think propane! For instance, I would worry that PVC pipe might concentrate propane from small leaks that could lead to problems. You do want to make all connections easily accessible so you can do the soapy water test now and again.

BTW, we also used adel clamps. Actually, I think I followed Tony's description most of the way.

Tom