Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Hi Everyone,

Long time TnTTT member, not an active poster. I built my first TD about 8 years ago. See images below if you're interested.

I've used my camper / trailer in many "Off-road" conditions. I know the term "off-road" means something different to everyone. My definition is if the jeep goes, the trailer should be able to go into 90% of the same places. I use this mostly on service roads, both maintained and unmaintained, and at times I'm breaking trail that has not been used in years, full of large rocks, washouts, etc. I have disconnected the trailer and winched it down steep hills, then back up on the way out. Not worried about scratches on the TV. However, I don't rock crawl unless I need to for some reason, and it's rare. It gets used in all four seasons, through ice and snow, sun and rain.

Questions (for now)

Keep in mind I'm building this to be used in the same conditions as above. And I'd like to find a balance between keeping it light, but also strong enough for what I'll be doing, and adding a roof rack capable of 400-500 lbs.

• What is your ideal camper framing method?
• What is your ideal way to attach walls to floor, ceiling, etc.
• What is your ideal method for building insulated walls, roof, and floor?
• What is your ideal method to attach the body to the trailer frame?
• Do you prefer pre-made or self made doors? (my home made warped a bit but are ok)
• What do you think is the best way to finish walls and seal the edges / seams where walls meet roof?
  ----Rounded over and fiber glassed, then paint the walls with Raptor Liner.
  ----Aluminum or composite walls with edging.
  ----Other?
• Best suspension?
  ----Springs ( I used this, it's not been great, terrible ride, breaks down often. However, I know how to bush fix a broken spring.)
  ----Timbren
  ----Torsion

below is my short introduction if you want to read further. Otherwise, thanks for your help!

The trailer is 2x3 all around with angle inside, tow rings that have been used to both tie down the boat, and to pull the trailer out of a tight spot. All external surfaces can be stood on. Both the Jeep and the trailer share the same wheels.

The only issues I've had are the springs, I've broken 3 sets of 3500lb springs ( should probably go easier on some bumps), the last set of 3500lb springs was upgraded to have an overload spring and still broke (above). I'd go through one set every 2 years, approx. The last set I put on last year is now a 5000lb set. It's stiff! In the above lower image the spring is broken which is why the tire is close to the fender, it's being held together with a log under the axle and ratchet straps. Never had another problem.

The body is 3/4" marine ply walls, 2x4 floor framing (horizontal joists not vertical) with foam insulation. 1/2" bottom deck painted, edges are flex sealed, and a 1/4" ply top on the floor. The front wall is 2x2 framing with foam insulation. Exterior and interior roof / ceiling is 1/8" ply. All walls, roof, etc. are coated in resin. All seams are taped and glassed. All seams are rounded over, taped, glassed, and smoothed. It's then painted with exterior grade house paint which I reapply every 3 years or so.

Now, we're looking at building a new one. A nicer one.

I feel I did a good job on my current square/tear drop. But I know it can better.

Looks fun!

I'll leave most of your questions to the pros - but for durability I'd go with progressive leaf springs and add shocks. longer than you would normally use so they have good flex. On the trail I would run the trailer tire pressure at 20 PSI. This would help a ton.

For connecting the walls to the floor I did this and I think it's the best method.



I used carriage bolts to attach to the chassis and that's how I would do it again. The carriage bolts go through the floor and through 2x3 runners in to the frame. This makes certain only extreme force will rip them out. My floor is 3/4" BCX insulated with rigid pink board and gym flooring (very nice on the knees when the mattress is in sofa mode or when working inside)



I did PMF so can't comment on other methods but I imagine the absolute best would be fiberglass cloth and resin painted. I'm happy with the PMF job I did and like fiberglass it's 100% sealed except where I pierced it to mount something.

Have Fun! Hopefully the pros will chime in more.

I'm using leaf springs intended for the rear of a Jeep XJ. S10/Sonoma leaf springs would also be a good choice. They are longer and more flexible than std trailer leaf springs. Also mounted shock absorbers and bump stops, and will run at least 31 inch AT tires. In hind sight I would have chosen my shocks more carefully based on specs to better match the travel (rather than just picking the common monroe trailer shocks). I over spec'd the axle to get bigger bearings and brakes, but then derated it by carefully selecting leaf springs with appropriate ratings.

You really need to figure out what's causing your broken spring issue. Are they binding? Are they too stiff? Are they over compressing or finding the limits of your shackle travel?

#2 Rounded over and fiber glassed, then spray the walls with Monstaliner; Rubber Torsion axle.

I think I answer most of your questions in my last build log. You might take a gander.



https://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=71588

Tony

WestCoastWhale wrote:...The only issues I've had are the springs, I've broken 3 sets of 3500lb springs ( should probably go easier on some bumps), the last set of 3500lb springs was upgraded to have an overload spring and still broke (above). I'd go through one set every 2 years, approx. The last set I put on last year is now a 5000lb set. It's stiff! In the above lower image the spring is broken which is why the tire is close to the fender, it's being held together with a log under the axle and ratchet straps. Never had another problem.....

KCStudly wrote:I'm using leaf springs intended for the rear of a Jeep XJ. S10/Sonoma leaf springs would also be a good choice. They are longer and more flexible than std trailer leaf springs. Also mounted shock absorbers and bump stops, and will run at least 31 inch AT tires. In hind sight I would have chosen my shocks more carefully based on specs to better match the travel (rather than just picking the common monroe trailer shocks). I over spec'd the axle to get bigger bearings and brakes, but then derated it by carefully selecting leaf springs with appropriate ratings.

You really need to figure out what's causing your broken spring issue. Are they binding? Are they too stiff? Are they over compressing or finding the limits of your shackle travel?

I've broken a spring on my old car-hauler trailer (overloaded with engine blocks & rear axles, going to a swap meet) and tore a spring hanger loose from the frame, on my 4x8 squareback trailer. In both cases, the springs were overloaded and over-extended (and both set-ups were very old). Too many flex cycles on both, but also, the spring hanger/spring bolt was over-tightened on the 4x8.

The broken spring was easily replaced, being a standard 25.25" eye-to-eye spring (available everywhere), and when I fixed the 4x8 trailer https://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=58985, I reinforced the frame, installed all new hardware, and used longer 300lb-rated 25.25" springs (the originals were much shorter, had zero flex, and probably weren't rated for 1000 lbs...though the trailer weighed about 1600 lbs at the time, IIRC).

I bought an extra spring to carry, as a spare, for the tandem axle trailer, because I often used it for hauling my drag race Chevelle to distant dragstrips, but didn't get one for the single axle camping trailer. Instead, I fabricated an "active bumpstop", to be used as a shock absorber/bump stop combo substitute, to absorb roadshock, and to tame the spring flex (primarily, to keep the spring from overflexing and either snapping or tearing a hanger loose...again).https://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=59570#p1075076

Like KC, I over-spec'd my axle and springs, because I knew the trailer would get heavier as years passed, and I also wished to go semi-offroad (Texas flatlands, ranchlands, not mountainous, but never have I actually have done so), and I've learned to use heavy-duty parts wherever available, for my vehicles and trailers. The exception to that rule was the the tire size; I designed the trailer around a 14" tire size (ground clearance, fender clearance, etc.), so I bought 28x8.5-r14 General Grabber ATX2 all-terrain tires (there was a short delay in purchasing, due to budgetary constraints...i.e. my wife). I basically kept the same clearances as before (though the all-terrains were slightly taller & wider than the Carlisle ST tires I originally used), and I run them at 50 psi, as recommended on the sidewall. With the "active bumpstop" moderating roadshocks, the trailer rides very smooth. I guess I'd lower the tire pressure offroad, but I never bought a 4WD to tow it with (with 2x FWD street cars, 2x 2WD pickups, and a 23 year-old AWD 2001 BMW X5 "project car", there'll be no offroading for me).

Hey, thanks for the replies, suggestions, and assistance. Much appreciated! I was starting to think I asked too much all at once, then I come back from a trip (with the camper!) and there are some comments. Thank you.

The trailer hauled like a dream this trip, not too stiff at all this time. Took it through some rough spots, some tight spots (broke off a rear frame leveling jack... simple fix), my brother in law was with and was shocked at how well a trailer can perform off-road.

Tony, I'll take a look at your build thread and see what I find.

For those mentioning to use XJ springs, or other similar springs. I decided awhile ago that if my current ones do not work out, I'll likely be trying some XJ style springs.

Thanks again!