Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Posted: **Fri May 05, 2006 3:05 pm**

Okay Im about done with the flooring....on the Finn Voyager..My question is....

Will I be ok with the 32 inches from center of axle to back edge of frame?
Here is the plan..... I dont know how to draw the RW Johnson Wide Kit fenders onto this so Im sort of testing it for now with the template. I dont want the doors to be too low either since it wont look right in my opinion....What would be the correct height to install them at ? Im going to drop the walls down below the bottom edge of the frame hoever at the moment I dont know how much... Having fun setting it up and trying

Classic Finn :thinking:

Posted: **Fri May 05, 2006 6:10 pm**

It looks good. The only thing that looks like it needs changing is the tongue. 4feet looks to long! Try 36 to 38” Even with a 5’ wide trailer the tongue does not have to be more than 36” unless the tongue box is the full with of the trailer than you have it right! :thumbsup:

Chuck

Posted: **Fri May 05, 2006 6:13 pm**

Heikki,

I've heard several people indicate the bottom of the door should be 4" above the floor. I think that is so when you sit on the mattress, it won't compress so low that the edge of the opening cuts into your leg. (Someone please correct me if I'm incorrect on this.) And I agree with the comment about your tongue length.............tongue on the trailer, that is! :lol:

Posted: **Fri May 05, 2006 6:39 pm**

Chris C wrote:Heikki,

I've heard several people indicate the bottom of the door should be 4" above the floor. I think that is so when you sit on the mattress, it won't compress so low that the edge of the opening cuts into your leg. (Someone please correct me if I'm incorrect on this.) And I agree with the comment about your tongue length.............tongue on the trailer, that is!

Chris, the bottom of the door should no more than half the height of the mattress...4" is fine if you are using an 8 in mattress but few use one that thick...ours is only 2" above the floor and we are using a 4" mattress...regardless on mattress height we will still use the 2" measurement to give maximum door opening ...and room for the sidewall cleat...
madjack

Posted: **Fri May 05, 2006 10:11 pm**

Chuck Craven wrote:It looks good. The only thing that looks like it needs changing is the tongue. 4feet looks to long! Try 36 to 38” Even with a 5’ wide trailer the tongue does not have to be more than 36” unless the tongue box is the full with of the trailer than you have it right!
Chuck

Dear Chuck,

I find that the tongue length is much more about width of the tow vehicle than about how "long it should be" Even your post suggests that clearing the tow vehicle is the determining factor. Myself, I have a 5' wide tear towed by a Honda CR-V. The spare is mounted on the tailgate which necessitates at tongue length a little more than you suggest.

Why is an long tongue better?
The tongue length is a critical component for trailer stability. The longer the tongue, the easier it is for the towing vehicle to steer the trailer. It's OK to have a trailer tongue about 12" to 18" longer than most utility trailers on the road today. Shorter tongues require 12 to 15% of the trailer weight to be on the ball. Longer tongues only need 10%! That means less weight on your car and more on the trailer. Longer tongues also make for easier backing. There's also enough room to mount more stuff. Longer tongues are slightly more expensive to implement, that's the main factor driving shorter tongues on commercially built trailers.

Posted: **Sat May 06, 2006 12:23 am**

Finn,
A fender added, it's to scale. The fender is the Lil Bear fender, I believe he said it is 42" front to back.
Norm

Posted: **Sat May 06, 2006 1:51 am**

norm perkiss wrote:Finn,
A fender added, it's to scale. The fender is the Lil Bear fender, I believe he said it is 42" front to back.
Norm

Yupper - 42 inches is correct. I measured the fenders as well.
Wonder if they are made by the same folks... meanin Grants and RW Johnson?

Man I wish I had drawing abilities like that.... :lol:

Ok this will look mighty nice, thank you...

PS. What wood is best for the ribs or cross beams....Birch, Pine?

Classic Finn :thumbsup:

Posted: **Sat May 06, 2006 1:59 am**

Heikki, I prefer a hardwood for the ribs but in actuallity, any clear grained wood will do and depends a lot on what is availale to you...
madjack

Posted: **Sat May 06, 2006 2:03 am**

madjack wrote:Heikki, I prefer a hardwood for the ribs but in actuallity, any clear grained wood will do and depends a lot on what is availale to you...
madjack

Madjack

I have access to oak... too... and of course Finn Birch... I guess the oak
is stronger?

Classic Finn

Posted: **Sat May 06, 2006 2:40 am**

I was thinking of maybe making the front box a lil longer to fill the tow
bar. since its a little longer than most..

And I dont have a welding machine or such so maybe it will look better that way..the frame itself has already been safety inspected so then I wouldnt have to go thru all the Finnish Beauracracy all over again.. :thinking:

I,ll come up with somthing..

Classic Finn

Posted: **Sat May 06, 2006 5:13 pm**

Ive got the entire template and parts all over the living room floor - Wife and Son left for her mothers place for a mini vacation so I to make use of the situation....Im saddened that they left.... :twisted: