Screws and 1/4 ply walls

[Miriam C.]

I did a search and looked through page after page. Even the "walls thread doesn't have this so I hope someone can give me an answer.

I am using 1/4 inch birch ply and I bought deck type screws 1 1/4". However in practice and framing I am sending theses screws all the way through the 1/4 inch stuff and a good way into the 3/4 framing. I think these screws pull themselves in. (Black and Decker variable drill)

If someone can please tell me what kind of screws to use and how to keep them from sinking too far in I would really appreciate it.

Secondly how in the world do I get the 1/8 on the outside roof to screw in. I know the question was asked many times but can't find an answer.

Thank you very much.

Miriam

[apratt]

let go of the trigger sooner.


jokes aside could use the dry wall screwdriver bit that only let the screw go in so far then slip. for 1/8 seem like I would use staples. Haven't built one yet, just my 2 cents.

[doug hodder]

Miriam...I'd say you just need to go with a lighter finger on the drill...I build with epoxy and just sink the screws in to hold what ever material in place till the glue cures...then back them out, like completely remove them... especially on the roof, I do leave them in on structural members however. I pulled all the screws on the roof out once the epoxy cured, and reuse them in other places...If you screw it down too tight, you will squeeze out the adheseive ... and actually the joint may become weaker in framing situations. It is tough on 1/4" material, but with a variable speed drill don't run them in too fast...take your time and don't let them tear through the material...back off on the speed as the head of the screw starts to seat...and 1.25" screws seem to be a bit beefy for what you are doing....just my thoughts on it, but everyone builds differently......Doug

[asianflava]

If I'm using screws for clamping, I've found that the pocket screws work well. They have a wide flat head that keeps them from sinking too far in. The square drive also helps a lot, I can reuse them more than a phillips screw because they don't strip out as much.

[Miriam C.]

Thank you Doug,
I think I need a new type. These are the shortest deck screws they make and will never discolor the wood. They also don't pucker the wood (cause they are outa sight). I got them mainly to put the sides up. I will try to find a lighter hand. Maybe order some epoxy for the roof. I am going to assume you epoxy over the holes after you take them out. Gonna be an expensive roof.

Aprat, I am ole and slow. And the Dewalts screw holder thingie is magnetic so the dang driver bit won't let go fast. These have their own bit. Comes in the box. Fancy blue. I didn't know a drywall bit would limit the screw.

Thanks
Miriam

[Sonetpro]

Miriam
Are you building the walls before or after they are up?
When I did my intereor walls I didn't use any screws. I just laid it flat and gorilla glued them and set weight on it until it cured.
On the roof I glued it to the spars and used ring shank paneling nails to hold it while it cured. I left them in.

[Miriam C.]

Asianflava,
I couldn't find a pocket screw jig and knew I might be putting ply together sooooooooo. I bought a biscuit joiner. Just had to have it. Drove to Springfield to get it. Got the bigger one cause they didn't have the cheapy (Harbor Freight). Talked the manager into giving me the same price (at someone's urging, wonderful man). Got it home put the two pieces together but did not check the debth of the cut. After making Mike help me wrestle these two pieces of ply together only to have to cut them apart I think I better find a use for it. That or get the roof on first.

I might get some of the screws to hold the roof on the bad curves. They will need it.
Thanks
Aunti M

[apratt]

Miriam here is what the bit looks like you can get them at any lumber stores.

[Miriam C.]

Steve T
Can you get paneling nails that don't rust now. Haven't used them for a lot of years. (did the whole house once )

I am going to make the walls first. The outside is 1/4 but the inside is 1/8th birch. Pretty but has footballs. It gets glued. Maybe nailed around the edges but the trim will hold it. It's just the roof and outsides that are bugging me and I don't even have all the wood yet.

Thanks for the suggestions
Miriam (the baby's finally asleep so I am heading that way too.) Good Night all and Have a safe and Happy Independance Day.

[doug hodder]

Miriam....I just mix up a small batch of thickened epoxy and use it like a putty to fill the holes...not a big expense, especially if you are using epoxy on the rest of the project...use a bondo squeege to apply...sticks and fills/seals better than a putty, also check the chuck on the drill...some have several adjustments that will allow the clutch to disengage at various torques...if that is what you have, play around with it to find what you want for countersinking the screws...hope this helps....Doug

[surveytech]

What Doug said. See if your drill has a torque setting collar on it.
And maybe try practicing on a scrap piece of wood too.
Just go slow......slow slow slow.
My roof is 1/4" luan and is very soft compared to the birch but with the torque set right and using a cordless drill at a slow speed I was able to set the screws just right.

good luck!

Walter

[Steve_Cox]

Miriam,

Hope I'm not too late to get my few cents in on this....

I used no screws, nails or any other fasteners on the roof or sides when I put them on. I just used thickened epoxy and clamps. I didn't want any holes in it.

[Chris C]

I agree with Steve. The fewer holes in the outside surfaces, the fewer places for water to infiltrate.

[Jiminsav]

Miriam, I used ¾ lath screws to put things together, they have a real big flat head that don't push through the wood..after the glue dries, I pull them out and put in some 1 inch deck screws like your using, and like they said, you need to learn to release the trigger before you get in too deep..

[Miriam C.]

Miriam, I used ¾ lath screws to put things together, they have a real big flat head that don't push through the wood..after the glue dries, I pull them out and put in some 1 inch deck screws like your using, and like they said, you need to learn to release the trigger before you get in too deep..

Wow Jim, if I set those through I need to throw away the drill.
It doesn't have a way to adjust the torque so I practiced every chance I got today. I only set one deep. It had pulled the board up and I laid it on. I learned to back them out when they did that.

I think I am going to go get some Lath screws and some paneling nails and some pocket hole jig screws. I can use them in different places. I will keep these deck screws to put the sides in at the bottom and top edges.

It got dark before I could get a picture of the raise bed framing I practiced on. It looks great (sorta) It won't show and I will face frame it.
Thank you all so much.
Aunti M