Anyone tried decals on FRP?

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Anyone tried decals on FRP?

Postby jje507 » Tue Jul 11, 2006 9:43 pm

I've been looking at some of the pictures in the albums and have been
considering adding some decals or stripes on our camper but not sure
how well they will adhere to the FRP. Has any one else done this?
Mine is the "pebble" texture.
Jeff :thinking:
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Postby Chris C » Tue Jul 11, 2006 9:47 pm

I used to work in the plastic industry and worked with tectures materials as well as decals. I could be wrong (as I'm often proven here on the site) but I's vote against putting a decal on a pebble surfaced material. On the other hand, you might have someone do something with an airbrush if you are after graphics. :thinking:
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Postby doug hodder » Tue Jul 11, 2006 9:48 pm

Jeff...ideally vinyl graphics prefer flat smooth surfaces, but if you really burnish them down well, with a rubber squeegee they should stick for you, hard plastic squeegee on smooth surfaces, rubber on a dimpled surface...just for grins, go by a local sign shop that cuts vinyl and ask them if they have a scrap of vinyl that you could do a test with...clean off the area really well and wipe some vinyl down on it and see how it works...also, vinyl can be installed wet or dry...wet meaning using a little water with a couple of drops of liquid soap in a spray bottle...this method allows you to position, lift and move the vinyl before you squeegee it down...when you do dry...it better be good from the get go...worked in the sign industry...just my experience...Doug
Last edited by doug hodder on Wed Jul 12, 2006 12:03 am, edited 4 times in total.
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Postby asianflava » Tue Jul 11, 2006 10:13 pm

Would it help to warm it up with a heat gun before hitting it up with the rubber squeege?
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Postby doug hodder » Tue Jul 11, 2006 10:29 pm

I'd say a blow dryer on low...too high on the heat and the vinyl will expand and you will end up with wrinkles in it and they are really going to be hard to get out, typically, once you apply it and let it sit out in the sun, it will lay down pretty well, just work out the bubbles with a thumb at that point..and I've got some extra graphics...while we are at the IRG Rocky, I'll bring along one and show how to apply both dry and wet methods, if anyone has a piece of the dimpled materials that they are talking about, we can give it a try also... just a thought...Doug
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Postby Boodro » Tue Jul 11, 2006 11:34 pm

What a timely question. I have been trying to come up with a design for my TD too. I was going to go with vinyl , but am now looking at painting on my FRP. I had an estimate done on some graphics 8 ft long & it was about 85 dollars a side! I'll see what painting does one of these days.
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Postby bdosborn » Tue Jul 11, 2006 11:54 pm

I have smooth Filon on mine and vinyl graphics work great.
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I'd do like Doug said and try out a little piece to see how it works on the pebbled surface. I'd wet it down first, you have to be right on the first time if you don't. The surprising thing for me was that little bubbles will go away by themselves so don't sweat the little ones.
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P.S. Be really carefull if you use any kind of heat. FRP melts at like 185F so it wouldn't take much to melt your siding.
Last edited by bdosborn on Tue Jul 11, 2006 11:58 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby doug hodder » Tue Jul 11, 2006 11:57 pm

Boodro...if you are going to spray graphics, use 3M fine line tape to mask them off...it's available in a lot of different widths, that's what the guys that shoot flames use to mask off with..it will give you a super clean line...unlike the masking tapes out there, paint can bleed under a masking tape, ending up with a fuzzy line...but honestly...at 85$ per side for 8' length graphics, custom cut...that isn't that bad of a deal...however...check the quality of the vinyl...lots of manufacturers out there...my experience is that the 3M vinyl has the best UV resistance and warranty....Doug
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Postby Boodro » Wed Jul 12, 2006 12:03 am

Doug , thanks for the input! I will remember that. I woulda used masking tape ! :?
I got that est. from a vinly cutter at a local fair , it was only available in 12 inch width, & probably cheap vinyl. I think I'll check into a shop. Thanks again. :applause: :applause:
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Postby doug hodder » Wed Jul 12, 2006 12:07 am

Boodro...go to the local auto paint shop...they've got the tape...not something you'll get at a Home Depot...speciality paint places only, use the fineline tape on the outer edges where the paint is going to be...fill in the rest of the unpainted areas with regular masking tape and paper...it's a hassle to tape off, but the results are great...and if you end up with a fuzzy line...get some good quality pin striping tape...available down to 1/16" to tape off the lines for an accent color...probably more info than you wanted huh? ...doug
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Postby bdosborn » Wed Jul 12, 2006 12:12 am

Try looking on ebay for vinyl graphics. The graphic I got is for a tuner car. I think it was around $60 for both sides. But, you don't get anything custom. Wysiwyg.
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Postby asianflava » Wed Jul 12, 2006 1:05 am

That fineline tape is greenish and plastic, not paper like regular masking tape. We used to use it all the time at the paint shop I worked at. It's not cheap, so we used it on the edges then regular masking tape on top of that if we needed to cover more area.

I would think that masking a crisp line on the pebbled surface would be a pain in the butt. Kinda like when I painted this room I'm in right now, it has textured walls. If the tape bridges any of the texture, the paint will wick under it.
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Postby doug hodder » Wed Jul 12, 2006 1:51 am

Rocky is 100% correct...any bridged areas of the tape will allow paint to creep under it...with the fineline...lay it down...let it sit for a while in the sun or a while under warm conditions and then burnish it down well with your finger, prior to spraying...after spraying...don't leave it on for days...pull it after the paint has flashed off and has set up pretty well...like in a couple of hours...pull the tape 180 degrees to the surface in which it was laid on and you will have a great finish line...pull it slowly, a quick rip may pull paint off the surface....Doug
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Postby hammer & tongs » Wed Jul 12, 2006 6:06 am

Would it be feasible for you to print a copy of the decals you select and either cut a stencil or have someone hand paint the subject on your surface ?
I would just wager that if you're not handy with an artist brush and don't have a close kin that is..a local art teacher could recommend some student that is...
The student could probably use the cash and it would probably be a sight less than the decals..

...Just my two cts..

BTW: My Grandson did mine..see him doing it in my album..
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Postby Darren » Wed Jul 12, 2006 10:17 am

I've had good luck putting decals on pebbled surfaces using the wet method and a rivet brush, helps to get all the bubbles out.
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