First Idea...looky!!

[Yahnozha]

So here you go, my first idea/rendition. Im using CorelDraw to do the sketches, namely cause you can draw at full scale, print at full scale, and export as a .dxf too...did I mention you can do this all at full scale?

Some background, Im really partial to the classic shape. Im 6' tall so thats cabin goal on interior floor length. The galley has to be able to store a full set of spare track tires those are about 24" dia.

Frame will be 8' long (red line) and 5' wide, axles are undetermined at this point, leaning toward individual torsion spindles. 2"x2" or 2"x1" steel tube will be used for the base.

Im really partial to the full height door. The grey rectangle is a 6' long mattress. Im toying around with the idea of making it a popup as shown in the lower image (yes this will shorten the doorway when closed). Closed dimensions are approx 53" tall by 112" long, with the popup, makes it 66" tall give or take.

Sides will be built using the frame/insulate/skin method. Windows will be cut lexan.


Clicky for Bigger Picture

The popup mechanism is gonna be the fun part. A scissor style mechanism that can be hand cranked from outside the TD is probably the most simple option, both ends could be lifted in unison this way with little effort. UHMW angle will more than likely be the best material for the popup to slide on going up and down. Lock downs will be used to hold the popup in place during travel.

Well, watcha think?

[kirtsjc]

Well, watcha think?

I think that what you want is best; and I LOVE the windows you have designed!

[Juneaudave]

I like your thoughts but question whether you can have a bed 6' + and tires 24" in the galley on a eight foot tear. You might be a candidate for a tiny trailer design...and there are a lot of really good ones on the board.

[Sonetpro]

I really like the profile. And interesting popup. I would have to agree about the 8' with the tires though, Mabye 10' ?

[angib]

Well, watcha think?

A nice shape. Here are a few comments/suggestions:

- I'm surprised you think a 6' long mattress is long enough for a 6' person to sleep on. The body front does angle forwards, so you will have a bit more length at head height than at mattress height, but even so it'll be tight.

- The very tight curve under the back of your galley/hatch might be difficult to get any plywood to bend around - no problem for aluminum, obviously.

- With the lifting roof sliding inside the rest of the body, I can't see any way that you can reliably seal it against rain or dew when lifted. Any seal you think of will open when you lower the roof, so any trapped water will then fall on your bedding. As a Brit, designing for rain seems essential, but maybe in New Mexico you can guarantee that it won't rain when you go camping!

Andrew

[Yahnozha]

I think that what you want is best; and I LOVE the windows you have designed!

Yeah, the windows do make this design really work. I think the hard part is gonna be making them functional (ie: opening) windows.

I like your thoughts but question whether you can have a bed 6' + and tires 24" in the galley on a eight foot tear.

I really like the profile. And interesting popup. I would have to agree about the 8' with the tires though, Mabye 10' ?

- I'm surprised you think a 6' long mattress is long enough for a 6' person to sleep on. The body front does angle forwards, so you will have a bit more length at head height than at mattress height, but even so it'll be tight.

The frame dimensions arent set in stone, Ill be building the frame from scratch, so adding in a foot or so wont be an issue. Stretching the overall proportions so it keeps the same look and feel shouldnt be an issue either.

- The very tight curve under the back of your galley/hatch might be difficult to get any plywood to bend around - no problem for aluminum, obviously.

Fortunately the tight curve will be where the hatch seperates, at least thats the idea. So bending what ever skin material around that will only need to bend half that, not too sure, thats gonna be a long way off tho.

- With the lifting roof sliding inside the rest of the body, I can't see any way that you can reliably seal it against rain or dew when lifted. Any seal you think of will open when you lower the roof, so any trapped water will then fall on your bedding. As a Brit, designing for rain seems essential, but maybe in New Mexico you can guarantee that it won't rain when you go camping!

This is one of my major concerns, here is a tentative solution.


Clicky for Bigger Pic

The popup would need to cap the tops of the outside surface by some margin. Under the cap would be gasketing to seal when in the down position. The other gasket would be a flexable rubber strip that would seal against the side wall of the popup and the top of the frame. There could be a little channel cut in the popup wall for the seal to seat when in the up position to allow for better drainage during rainy conditions. This flexable seal could be used for sealing in both positions...possibly. Now making the seal work and not get caught while lowering the popup will take some R&D on my part.

The yellow strip would be 1/8" UHMW for wear and ease of movement.

To hold things tight in the down position, some sort of clamp like these would be implimented. Not the prettiest latch, but you get the idea.

[angib]

Now making the seal work and not get caught while lowering the popup will take some R&D on my part.

That's an inventive idea, and might seal in the up position (though the tolerances would need to be awful tight), but I don't see how you'll avoid ripping the nose of the seal off when you lower the top.

Andrew

[Sonetpro]

Would this work ? It's made for RV slides.
http://tinyurl.com/my4pt

[angib]

Would this work ? It's made for RV slides.

I think this is how this seal is used on a side RV slide-out:



Now if you make the slide-out into a lift-up and rotate the seal to work the same way, it doesn't work so well:



When the roof is up, at least the green area fills with rainwater - and that assumes the wiper seal will hold water when it's submerged (unlikely). More likely is that the purple area also fills up with rainwater and that bulb seal isn't designed to work underwater either.

In the unlikely event that the seals don't let water through when the roof is up, the water in the purple area will drain into the body when the roof is lowered.

Oh, and you'd lose several inches either side of the body to make space for this seal.

As you can see, if you've got an idea you want shot down in flames, I'm your man......

Andrew

[Sonetpro]

As you can see, if you've got an idea you want shot down in flames, I'm your man......

Andrew

Ok Andrew you now have me thinking
Gol durnit now you will have me thinking about this hard. There has to be a way, Just have to figure it out.

[grant whipp]

P@!

Have you considered some kind of waterproof tent-type material for the sides of the pop-up? They could snap to the sides of the tear when in the up position and divert any water off to the sides & ends ... they could roll up and snap to the ceiling in the closed position thereby giving full headroom for both the entry door AND the cabin ... you could also create some mighty nice CURVED windows in the sides with SCREENS so you could open the windows and get lotsa airflow through there ... weatherproofing in the closed position would be as simple as the galley lid ... and think of the weight you'd save!

Food for thought?

I really like the design, and I'll be following this one as best as I can. Good Luck with it, and in the meantime ...

CHEERS!

Grant

[Greg M]

How about, instead of the wiper you use something like a really long bicycle inner tube around the perimeter of the pop-up. When the top is up you pump it up and it forms a seal. When your ready to lower it you just relieve the pressure and drop the top. You could even pump it up with the top down as an extra seal.
It's pretty well out in left field, but hey, who knows?

-Greg

[angib]

There has to be a way, Just have to figure it out.

You could do what the auto manufacturers do with sunroofs and install drainage tubes to carry away any water that collects at the seals. Raising the seal contact so that water doesn't actually sit on the join would be good too:



But of course those drainage tubes are notorious from blocking and leaking, and this one has to be flexible as it's connected to the bit that goes up and down.

Andrew

[dacrazyrn]

or move the pop up part from the inside to the outside of the wall. The aesthetics may change, but may be easier.

[Yahnozha]

That's an inventive idea, and might seal in the up position (though the tolerances would need to be awful tight), but I don't see how you'll avoid ripping the nose of the seal off when you lower the top.

Well, having machining skillz, tight tolerances arent too much of an issue for me, especially when were down to the thousands of an inch, wood is a whole other beast tho.

To solve this issue, putting a small raduis on the inside of the wall, with the addidion of the 1/8" space that will be there *should* allow the seal to lower down into the frame and not get pinched. Like this.


Clicky for bigger pic

Here is another solution using the RV seal modified.


Clicky for bigger pic

I think the nice thing about either of these designs, is really the water run off. Since this is not a flat top, all the water should drain (well a majority of it) off the TD just due to the rounded nature of the design and if there is water collecting (front and rear flat runs), its gonna be minimal. I really like that prebuilt gasket.

Have you considered some kind of waterproof tent-type material for the sides of the pop-up? They could snap to the sides of the tear when in the up position and divert any water off to the sides & ends ... they could roll up and snap to the ceiling in the closed position thereby giving full headroom for both the entry door AND the cabin ... you could also create some mighty nice CURVED windows in the sides with SCREENS so you could open the windows and get lotsa airflow through there ... weatherproofing in the closed position would be as simple as the galley lid ... and think of the weight you'd save!

Now thats a cool idea...neoprene comes to mind, the stuff used for wetsuits. It even comes in hawaiian themed print



Ill have to explore the design capabilities of this stuff as it is flexible and stretches...not the lightest nor cheapest materials out there, but the stuff is pretty rugged and can take lots of abuse, it can also be *welded* to itself with the right glues, making a seamless piece. The nice thing about neoprene are the size of the sheets, 4' wide and almost 8' long, I think 1-2 sheets could do popup walls in an instant. Oh, its also got nice insulation properties to it too.

or move the pop up part from the inside to the outside of the wall. The aesthetics may change, but may be easier.

Thats also an option, im sort of saving this as my last resort due to the aesthetic change...but im not ruling it out.