New stand-up tear design

[Gerald_G]

Karch67, you may want to check out my progress in this thread.

I am framing my walls out of 1" by 1.5" (because I have access to full 1" stock)

I intend to sheet inside with 1/8" and aluminum siding on the outside.

The original factory framing was with 3/4 plywood frames for the side and front walls, and 2X2 (1.5" by 1.5") back. the plywood frames were not cut out like you are planning, but cut into lengths and then joined like 1 X 2 at the joints with nothing more than staples spanning the joint.

My joints are made with PL-400 and Deck screws, plus I've added corner gussets in spots to increase rigidity.

Thread link

http://tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?t=9017

Or the sketch I made for Dewayne_Mellen in this thread.

http://tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?t=9979

[karch67]

Gerald, thanks for the links, I wanted to do two bunks but didn't think they would be big enough by the time I squeezed them in the teardrop shape. Will you be using corrugated siding or flat aluminum siding?

[Gerald_G]

Gerald, thanks for the links, I wanted to do two bunks but didn't think they would be big enough by the time I squeezed them in the teardrop shape. Will you be using corrugated siding or flat aluminum siding?

Likely corrugated. Depends on what my rv parts supplier recommends and prices of course.

I honestly don't think the outer skinning will be required for structural support. Since my floorplan has a lot of supporting internal framing too such as closet and BR walls, kitchen galley, bunk beds, and dinnette bed, there is lots of cross bracing generated by these internal frames too.

Plus like I said earlier, the gussets in the frames, and the glue and screw joints, make me confident in the strength. When I compare against factory methods I get more confident.

[karch67]

I updated the original design with a scaled profile from a cabin car which gives a little more interior space, allowing me to keep it under 12' and less than 7' tall, headroom is still about 6' in the footwell. Instead of a custom chassis I am using a TSC 4 x 8 stretched 11.5"



I replaced the front dinette with bunks, and now the rear is a dinette that converts to a full size bed.

[Gerald_G]

I like the new changes. the overall height should make it easy to tow. I'd probably build one like this, but my wife also really wanted the kitchen indoors.

[toypusher]

That's looking really nice. I like it!

[mikeschn]

That's a very good change. That'll cater to all the folks that want a teardrop for 4. Good job!!!

MIke...

Do you have a name for it yet?

[karch67]

I think I'll call it the Cab_4 unless I think of something better - I could post an VRML file if anyone is interested.

[mikeschn]

Yes, please post it...

Thanks,

Mike...

[karch67]

Mike,

I tried to put the WRL file in my album but it is too large (`9M), how else can I upload a file?

[mikeschn]

Mike,

I tried to put the WRL file in my album but it is too large (`9M), how else can I upload a file?

Try emailing it to me. I think my inbox can handle it. If not, I'll give you an FTP address...

MIke...

[Ron Dickey]

With todays gasoline prices you may want to think small but it you want bigger.

Check
Maxitear.com he has a double axel design with the bed in the back and kitchen front. you can stand in the kitchen nice unit I have been in it. My head did not touch the top and I am 6' in shoes

Ron

[mikeschn]

karch67,

You can ftp it here

ftp:ftp.mikenchell.com
login as anonymous
and upload the file into the incoming directory

Mike...

P.S. Here's a refresher if you need it...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File_Transfer_Protocol

[fatehunter1972]

I like your idea of standup room. I'm constantly flipping mental shapes to think of ways to get it. I'd even thought of vertical sliders. That would be hard to seal!

Anyways the thing you really need to think of is weight. If the tow limit of your car is 1500, do you really think a 1300 pound trailer weight is reasonable? You will not believe how quickly weight will accumulate both during the build process and the usage process. With light single engine airplanes even one coat of paint can add tens of pound of weight (albeit there is more surface area).

Just think of a cooler, some extra carpet (shag),, blankets, clothes (even they weigh a lot), stove, lawn chairs, Uncle John's extra lawn bowling set, the neat piece of furniture you bought at the antique store, extra fuel, and all the bits of crap that you want to bring.

I'll say it again, watch the weight. I'd recommend borrowing a utility trailer, load it up to 1500 lbs and drive it around for a while, then add several hundred pounds and do it again. Try braking down a hill etc.

There are very strong methods of building though that are light. As someone said in an earlier post, just look at airplane construction.

Keep at it, your going in the right direction

Michael