rough draft: a standy with hard-sides

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Postby Miriam C. » Mon Jun 02, 2008 8:49 pm

I don't think you should give up on the design too easily. Is there a reason you can't use the front under the bed for storage and make the back lower so the folding doors don't hit it? Maybe raise the sides a bit too. Or even make it longer.

The water issues can be solved with tent like attachments and channels. Or you could make it where you can travel with it up if wet if needed. Just drop it when dry. ;)
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Postby navigator » Mon Jun 02, 2008 11:43 pm

Bruce,

Here's some dimensions. Sketchup is great for visualizing, it just does not like curves too well, there is no way (that I know of) to adjust them. CorelDRAW is great for one-dimension drawing, and has the benefit of creating fixed pivot points (another Sketchup shortfall).


I would like 18" under the bed, 16" minimum. I welcome others trying to make this work, I'm sure it can be done in some form. I was aiming for a classic teardrop shape, but something different is fine, too.

"I keep thinking that the key is in getting the rear wall hinge point high enough to allow the sides to fold under without problem."

The problem with raising the lower rear (fixed) wall is that it shortens the lid, which moves the wall placement back or requires more overhang on that angled bit. The angle and hinge point seem optimum for headroom, but the profile can be adjusted to be less "tearey" to make the sidewalls work.

"And you want to keep the width at 72" or less, right?"

Yes. It would be space-saving to turn the bed sideways, but that makes it too wide. Also requires one person to climb over another to get in/out of bed.

Thanks for the CAD link, I will look into it.

Miriam,

I won't give up on the overall design, maybe just some details...

"Is there a reason you can't use the front under the bed for storage and make the back lower so the folding doors don't hit it? Maybe raise the sides a bit too. Or even make it longer."

The back can be lower: I've had it like the Kampmaser, all the way to the floor, but there are compromises on other points doing that. Also, I would like to keep the overall length to 12', a common max for USFS hairpin-laden roads around here. I should point out also that I am aiming for 15" wheels, to maximize clearance. This is not intended to be an "off-road" trailer, but certainly a rough-road one.

"Or you could make it where you can travel with it up if wet if needed."

That's a good thought! It should be towable in the raised position, as long as the latches are tight...

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Came across Scott W's Rolling Stone, a profile that could be adapted...

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And here is a quick workup of it, details not dealt with:

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Postby Miriam C. » Tue Jun 03, 2008 5:19 pm

:thinking: Let me clairify "lower the rear part of the bed. What I mean is hinged so it can drop or fold on to the front. That will also keep it from getting wet so no worries as long as the rest is water proofed. :thumbsup:
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Postby navigator » Wed Jun 04, 2008 12:27 am

Miriam,

That's a good idea, it creates needed space for the sidewalls. I also increased the overall height 3" by putting the profile on top of the frame. Making one sidewall hinge point lower than the other allows the walls to fold flat,and also lowers their closed position.

The profile at the bottom of my last post stands really tall when open, due to the near-vertical rear end. The tear-style slope works much better.

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Postby bgordon » Wed Jun 04, 2008 6:43 am

Mmm, that design looks kind of familiar... (from Popular Mechanics 1937)

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Interesting concept Navigator!!
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Postby navigator » Wed Jun 04, 2008 1:00 pm

Barrie,

I've seen that before, but never a view of the sides when open; how did they deal with that?

Here is another version of the clamshell, this time sorta like a Winter Warrior. The upper rear wall lift up and wedges under the roof, and contains the upper half of the door. The sides and top are shaped to fill the gaps to allow a vertical rear wall. Kinda hard to see in light blue...

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Postby mikeschn » Wed Jun 04, 2008 4:00 pm

I recognize that. I've drawn the Optimized Winter Warrior a hundred times. :o

What we need is a new (old) twist, and maybe we should look at that 1937 Popup again for ideas.

If anyone can improve it, you and Andrew can!!! ;)

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Postby Miriam C. » Wed Jun 04, 2008 5:31 pm

navigator wrote:Miriam,

That's a good idea, it creates needed space for the sidewalls. I also increased the overall height 3" by putting the profile on top of the frame. Making one sidewall hinge point lower than the other allows the walls to fold flat,and also lowers their closed position.

The profile at the bottom of my last post stands really tall when open, due to the near-vertical rear end. The tear-style slope works much better.

Image


I like this one much better than the PM one. Personally I think it is ugly. MHO. Just keep working on it and it will work. Little things at a time. :thumbsup:
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Postby len19070 » Wed Jun 04, 2008 7:04 pm

I gave up on the hard sides and went straight to canvas.

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Postby Elumia » Wed Jun 04, 2008 11:34 pm

what about this idea:
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front and back panels are fixed with hinges top and bottom, side panels fold in. Andrew had a drawing of the mechanism I'm thinking about I belive it was on his "compact" but I can't find it.

bottom rear could be curved as your original design.

More food for thought.

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Postby bgordon » Thu Jun 05, 2008 2:38 am

navigator wrote:Barrie,

I've seen that before, but never a view of the sides when open; how did they deal with that?


Leonard, to be honest, I don't know. I have never seen that particular trailer with the sides up. I suspect the sides were canvas.
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Postby bgordon » Thu Jun 05, 2008 2:59 am

mikeschn wrote:I recognize that. I've drawn the Optimized Winter Warrior a hundred times. :o

What we need is a new (old) twist, and maybe we should look at that 1937 Popup again for ideas.


I personally think the Winter Warrior/Kampmaster concept is one of the best out there. There are just two major concerns with this design.

1. Placing the windows: If you hinge the lifting roof to the back, you have more place to position the windows in the non-moving (forward) part. However, this will result in a smaller lifting roof, with less space for the cabin (this is like Mike's and Gary's WW's). However, if you hinge the roof more to the front, the cabin space increases, but placing the windows becomes a nightmare. I don't think it is sensible to try and place the windows in the (sides of the) hinged roof, because then the walls tend to become too thick.

2. The hinge in the roof of the trailer should be fairly high, so the profile needs to lift above the height of a car. That is one thing that I was trying to avoid, and no matter how hard I tried, I could not get the profile of the WW lower, and still cater for my 6 foot 4 inch body height.

My apologies if my explanation does not make sense at any point. English remains my second language...
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Postby bgordon » Thu Jun 05, 2008 4:23 am

mikeschn wrote:If anyone can improve it, you and Andrew can!!! ;)

Mike...


Now Mike, don't be shy with your views! You and Gary have actually BUILT the Winter warrior, and I have seen that photo (below) where you DISCUSS the design. If anyone can improve the design, it surely would be you or Gary!

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:thinking: :thinking: :thinking:

By the way, what is that tiny trailer in the background to the right of the photo? It surely looks like a small pop-up to me (but I can't say for sure seeing that half of the trailer is out of the photo). From what I can make out it should be something like an oldish Esterel ?? I figured I am not hijacking the thread seeing that it is also a pop-up with hard sides. ;)
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Postby mikeschn » Thu Jun 05, 2008 5:18 am

Well, I am hoping to improve the design, because I want to rebuild the Escape Hatch someday.

I am not sure what that trailer to the right of the photo is. I didn't see any other popups while I was camping there that weekend.

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Postby navigator » Mon Jun 23, 2008 2:09 pm

Came across this in my files, not sure where I found it originally. It has some good ideas...

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Just spent 11 days in a borrowed pop-up, and adapted some of those design ideas into a teardrop: a lifting/tilting roof with a bed that slides out over the tongue. Still requires canvas, unless the old Apache hard-side technique is used.

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Moving the bed out lets you put the galley in the rear, in classic TD style...
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