TrailBoss

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Re: TrailBoss

Postby stomperxj » Wed Nov 12, 2008 3:18 pm

wlivesey wrote:Image


I would be concerned with that square corner on your hatch area. I too designed mine like that at first but if it is going to be wood, it will be a weak point...

I also used 2x2x.120 tube and 2x2x.120 angle iron on mine with a 3500lb axle and hubs. You can take a look at mine to see what my wheel wells look like...

Looks good so far :)
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Postby Russ in California » Wed Nov 12, 2008 3:54 pm

Steve F wrote:Mine has a queen bed down to around the knees where you don't need the space as much and then the wheel wells come in. No problems at all and last time I used it three of us slept comfortably in sleeping bags in there (me and my kids who are 9 and 11). Basically as long as you have plenty of room at the shoulders you can forgo a little at the legs and not notice it :)

Cheers
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Interesting. :thinking:
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Postby Steve F » Wed Nov 12, 2008 5:17 pm

I should also add I did my wheels like this so the track matches the Jeep, dragging a trailer on sand is much easier if it follows the tow vehicles wheel tracks and you can feel safer knowing if the jeep got through the trailer should. Along with this I made sure the body of the trailer was no wider than the jeep, in fact it's a tiny bit skinnier so I can see past it with the mirrors and again feel confident that if the Jeep gets through the trailer will :)

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Postby KevinS » Wed Nov 12, 2008 6:10 pm

Don't forget about the A/C draining.
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Postby wlivesey » Wed Nov 12, 2008 6:27 pm

KevinS wrote:Don't forget about the A/C draining.


Thanks guys this is all great info...

I'm planning on the AC draining out the side of the trailer as opposed to through the floor. It may leave a little staining down the road but I think it will be ok.
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Re: TrailBoss

Postby wlivesey » Wed Nov 12, 2008 6:33 pm

stomperxj wrote:
wlivesey wrote:Image


I would be concerned with that square corner on your hatch area. I too designed mine like that at first but if it is going to be wood, it will be a weak point...



That's a great point. I certainly don't want that... Maybe the verticle part of the hatch could open like double doors and the top part could open up??? I like the look of the trailer as is, If possible I'd like to keep the same look but I don't want a flawed design either. :thinking:

How about this??? Too much???

Image
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Postby stomperxj » Wed Nov 12, 2008 7:55 pm

I would think that way would be a mess to try and seal. I'd keep the hatch the original way, you just need to make the hatch framing strong. either reinforce with steel tube like i am doing or make your corner with a radius and build some strong ribs from thicker wood... Does that make sense?

Also, like Steve, I made my track width match my tow vehicle and the body width match too...
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Postby wlivesey » Wed Nov 12, 2008 10:44 pm

stomperxj wrote:I would think that way would be a mess to try and seal. I'd keep the hatch the original way, you just need to make the hatch framing strong. either reinforce with steel tube like i am doing or make your corner with a radius and build some strong ribs from thicker wood... Does that make sense?

Also, like Steve, I made my track width match my tow vehicle and the body width match too...


Agreed. All the doors, hinges and seals seem like a big pain.

I'll have to double check the track of my FJ to make sure they match. I can adjust the plans as needed.
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Postby Arne » Thu Nov 13, 2008 10:13 am

the hatch is only a weak point when open. when closed, it is fully supported by the wall.... if you do it correctly, I see no problem with it. I built mine very similar to what you are doing... I really like the straight cuts on the hatch joint. much easier. see 4th pic on page 7, link at bottom..... if you are still concerned, put a doubler at the angle in the hatch. That, I would do, some 1/2" ply for extra strength.

The wall is also bolted to the chassis, so 4" seems excessive to me. 3" C channel is what I would go with.. but that is me..

Remember you have a wall/ frame that becomes one member... and if the tongue weight is only 100# or so, I see no reason for 4" tubing.
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Postby wlivesey » Thu Nov 13, 2008 10:41 pm

Steve F wrote:Mine has a queen bed down to around the knees where you don't need the space as much and then the wheel wells come in. No problems at all and last time I used it three of us slept comfortably in sleeping bags in there (me and my kids who are 9 and 11). Basically as long as you have plenty of room at the shoulders you can forgo a little at the legs and not notice it :)

Cheers
Steve


Steve, Do you recall the width between the wheel wells? After taking the track of my FJ into consideration it looks like I have to move the wheel wells inside as well. Right now, I'm looking at about 46.5in (118cm)... I think it will be wide enough. What do you think?
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Postby wlivesey » Thu Nov 13, 2008 10:43 pm

Arne wrote:the hatch is only a weak point when open. when closed, it is fully supported by the wall....


Thanks Arne, Thats some good info. After seeing your build I think I'll keep my galley hatch design and reinforce it well.
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Postby Steve F » Thu Nov 13, 2008 10:53 pm

wlivesey wrote:
Steve F wrote:Mine has a queen bed down to around the knees where you don't need the space as much and then the wheel wells come in. No problems at all and last time I used it three of us slept comfortably in sleeping bags in there (me and my kids who are 9 and 11). Basically as long as you have plenty of room at the shoulders you can forgo a little at the legs and not notice it :)

Cheers
Steve


Steve, Do you recall the width between the wheel wells? After taking the track of my FJ into consideration it looks like I have to move the wheel wells inside as well. Right now, I'm looking at about 46.5in (118cm)... I think it will be wide enough. What do you think?


Should be fine, mine is around 113cm so 44.5 roughly (I run a 31x10.5" tyre). I don't think you'll have a problem. My wheel wells are past my finger tips when I lay down in there and even with my arm right against the wall my legs don't hit the wheel wells. Most of the time I sleep with my arms up behind my head so I'm well away from the wheel wells :)

Just make sure the wheel wells are down the bed a reasonable distance though so your arms dont reach them, you can also put in a thick mattress depending how high the wheel wells are if you're worried and a thin piece over the top of them as your legs wont notice ;)

Mine are carpeted now but you can see there isn't a great deal getting in the way here.

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Postby wlivesey » Thu Nov 13, 2008 11:03 pm

Thanks a million, Steve. That makes me feel better about it. I'm running about the same size tire but I think I have a bit wider track on my FJ.

Also, Did you insulate the wheel wells? I could give myself some space if I skip the insulation there. Then again, if it's cold, I might want that insulation down by my feet. My feet get cold enough already...
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Postby Steve F » Thu Nov 13, 2008 11:11 pm

I didn't insulate them but they have a thick rubberized coating on the wheel side and carpet on the inside so I didn't think it will be too much of an issue for such a small area :)

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AC Placement

Postby wlivesey » Fri Nov 14, 2008 12:18 am

I've got some concerns about having an AC unit mounted high inside the trailer. Since I want my trailer to be "off-road capable", I want to make sure the AC is mounted in a sturdy location.

I've seen some mounted on the tounge with ducts leading into the cabin. This seems like a viable option.

Thoughts anyone? (Other than not having AC....) :?
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