My Squaredrop Plans for Feedback

[pchast]

[Pmullen503]

Did you ever consider putting the storage on top? Gets the door and galley heights right.

Also, from experience, I built my camper primarily for canoe river trips. On my first trip, I carried the boats on the trailer. Then transferred them to the TV to ferry...

The only time since I've had boats on top was when I was carrying like, 5 boats for a group outing. Point is, carrying boats on your trailer, only to have to transfer to your TV to get to the water is pretty common. I found I got better mileage with the boats on the TV than on the trailer as well.

[JohnRock]

I didn't consider storage on top given I wanted to make it available for kayaks and such. With my current setup, I have my mountain bikes on my TV and storage boxes on my pop-up, so I can't realistically add kayaks anywhere. By freeing both tops from storage, it gives me options, including storage boxes if I need more storage (unlikely).

I totally get what you're saying. That's why for my bikes I decided to keep them on the TV. The trailheads are rarely close to the campgrounds so I need to transport them while camping. Having them locked on the top of the car is another benefit. I haven't yet experienced camping with kayaks, but I was thinking that since these trailers are always ready to go in little time, it wouldn't be a problem to just go to the water with the trailer. This may be wishful thinking in part... I'm sure it's not THAT easy.

The other factor is that the trailer will be used by my dad first and I don't see him carrying anything on his vehicles. It will be much simpler if he can glide things on the edge of the trailer.

[Pmullen503]

I see the dilemma: too many fun things to do and not enough room to carry all the stuff!

Whatever you decide, it pays to build light.

[S. Heisley]

The strength of the trailer is equal to the sum of its parts, not any one part.

Therefore, you can go with 1x2" studs with 1x3" around the doors and where you might be hanging something. Except for the deck, don't plan on more than 1/4" plywood for walls and roof. Use 1/8" plywood sides if you are sandwiching it with studs and Styrofoam in between. 3/4" Styrofoam fits perfectly between 1x2 or 1/3" studs, weighs very little, and adds considerable strength to the end product, as well as giving insulating properties.

When picking out your wood for studs, etc., the lighter the color, the lighter the wood should weigh. Don't pick any wood with green in it. Yes, the weight adds up really fast.

viewtopic.php?f=21&t=60392

(Note: Angib has gone to trailer heaven, RIP, but his thoughts and words linger with us.)

[JohnRock]

I see the dilemma: too many fun things to do and not enough room to carry all the stuff!

Exactly! At some point in my life I expect that I won't want to carry so many things, and may even no longer want to camp , but for now I have these toys so might as well try to bring them with me.

[JohnRock]

The strength of the trailer is equal to the sum of its parts, not any one part.

Therefore, you can go with 1x2" studs with 1x3" around the doors and where you might be hanging something. Except for the deck, don't plan on more than 1/4" plywood for walls and roof. Use 1/8" plywood sides if you are sandwiching it with studs and Styrofoam in between. 3/4" Styrofoam fits perfectly between 1x2 or 1/3" studs, weighs very little, and adds considerable strength to the end product, as well as giving insulating properties.

I made a new design for the sidewalls, replacing most 2x3 with 2x2, and removing the base plate. My rational:

1. I don't think the base plate is required and it allows me to install the doors 2.5 inch lower, directly on the floor.
2. Based on feedback and discussions on this forum, seems like 2x2 is strong enough. 1x2 might be strong enough as well, but I'm worried about having only 3/4 inch of wood to screw in, vs 1.5 inches.
3. I plan on leaving it 2x3 for the top plate, to have more room to attach the gutters for the roof rack. This must help a bit in spreading the roof rack load as well across the vertical studs.
4. Because of the heavy double duty doors in the back, I left it as doubled 2x3s. Maybe this could be a single 2x4, I'm not sure. I just want to be able to attach 270 hinges and almost hang myself on it without flexing the corner.

[Onajourney]

Hey John- I think 2x2 is even too big. I know many folks do but I would not use standard 2x. Early in my build I ripped 2x4 down to 1.5x1.5. They seemed to be plenty strong enough but soon found they are very soft and screws tend to strip super easy. I finally settled on ripping 5/4 clear white pine found at big box stores. I ripped to 1x1.5" for most vertical frame members. Super strong and pretty hard so no screw tear outs. I was very happy with the results and it was not that much more expensive if you buy 12' boards. Here is a brief drawing of what I did on floor, walls, and ceiling.



You can also check in my squaredrop build journal here https://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=74957&hilit=oraft

IMO Chris

[JohnRock]

Thank you for these details, certainly something to consider. How did you manage the wires in the walls? Another benefit of 2x (1.5) I was thinking is being able to carve out shallow channels for wiring without weakening the wood too much.

[Pmullen503]

I think if you look at the roof load, it really isn't that much per lineal foot of wall. The plywood inside and out provides a lot of strength because the studs can't bend and twist. Even with grooves for the wiring, I think you'll be OK.

The other alternative is surface mount wiring which allows you to add or move things around after you've built and used the trailer for a while. That's a function vs esthetic kind of decision only you can make, but it is an option.

I would structure your roof rack mounts so the loads are carried directly to the frame.

[Onajourney]

Thank you for these details, certainly something to consider. How did you manage the wires in the walls? Another benefit of 2x (1.5) I was thinking is being able to carve out shallow channels for wiring without weakening the wood too much.

Hardly any notching. 90% of the wires run between the framing member much like a traditional house. You do need to drill the studs to run wiring thru of course.

[JohnRock]

I would structure your roof rack mounts so the loads are carried directly to the frame.

Yes, my plan is to place studs as centered as possible with the feet of the rack (false gutters like this https://www.thule.com/en-ca/roof-rack/r ... ers-_-1036), taking into account that I want ideal door placement and not add unnecessary studs.

[JohnRock]

Hardly any notching. 90% of the wires run between the framing member much like a traditional house. You do need to drill the studs to run wiring thru of course.

My first reaction was that this looked like pretty thick 1 inch wood, but then noticed I your plan above that your roof IS 1.5 inches. Why did you go with 1.5 on top but 1 for the walls? Did you run all your wires in the roof given it's thicker?

It looks very solid!

[Onajourney]

Hardly any notching. 90% of the wires run between the framing member much like a traditional house. You do need to drill the studs to run wiring thru of course.

My first reaction was that this looked like pretty thick 1 inch wood, but then noticed I your plan above that your roof IS 1.5 inches. Why did you go with 1.5 on top but 1 for the walls? Did you run all your wires in the roof given it's thicker?

It looks very solid!

A few reasons. 1. Increased insulation. 2. I needed 1.5" to be able to install a shade for the skylight. 3.Strength in the event a tree falls on it. 4. No big deal to loose a .5 inside the cabin.

Much of the wiring was in the ceiling. Where ever you install them take pictures to make sure you don't hit them later in the build.

[S. Heisley]

John: If you haven't already done it, please check what your DMV/DOT allows for weight. The last time I checked, a trailer without brakes had to weigh less than 1,000 pounds in NY state. I think NY has the toughest rules of any of our states and they may differ in other areas as well.