The weekender

[Arne]

Since most of the floor is covered with a mattress, whatever type, I wonder if insulating the floor is even necessary.

I'm thinking about using 1/2 inch ply bolted right onto the trailer box frame. In between the trailer frame rails, I would glue/screw stringers underneath the ply to strengthen it.

Doing this would make the trailer frame part of the structure, rather than just supporting it. And, it would make the inside floor at least 1.5 inches lower.

[mikeschn]

Doing that you lose the ability to screw your sidewalls into the subfloor, because it's hidden behind the frame rails.

And 1/2" ply is pretty thin.

Mike...

[Eagle]

We need to compare that to 3 sheets of 1/2" bc plywood. Does anyone know the cost of 1 sheet?

And 1/2" ply is pretty thin

.

OK, I will try again, are you saying to use 3/4 ply and no insulation? Any idea about the weight of a 3/4 ply vs a framed/insulated weekender?

With such a small space anyway, I am not sure why insulation is done with a teardrop, unless you are using them without heat/air.

So, for this TD challenged want one's, you are using a 4 x 8 bolt together trailer and 3/4 ply. Painting the exterior with an epoxy paint. What if anything are you doing to the exterior of the joints besides paint?

Thanks for answering my questions. I got a million of them.

Respectfully,


Eagle

[mikeschn]

OK, I will try again, are you saying to use 3/4 ply and no insulation? Any idea about the weight of a 3/4 ply vs a framed/insulated weekender?

A 3/4" plywood Weekender without the trailer and without the interior cabinets will weigh roughly 315#. I don't have the weight of the framed/insulated version yet.

With such a small space anyway, I am not sure why insulation is done with a teardrop, unless you are using them without heat/air.

Insulation helps reduce the conduction of heat or cold through your walls and roof. And if you are camping in cold weather, insulation also helps keep the condensation down, ESPECIALLY if you are not using a furnace of some kind.

So, for this TD challenged want one's, you are using a 4 x 8 bolt together trailer and 3/4 ply. Painting the exterior with an epoxy paint. What if anything are you doing to the exterior of the joints besides paint?

The fastest way to get into a teardrop, with a reasonable amount of money is to build a 4x8 bolt together, 1/2" side walls, and 3/4" roof sections.

All the joints are glued and screwed, and exterior joints are finished with CPES and Epoxy Filler, sanded smooth, and then painted with epoxy paint.

Mike...

P.S. I'll be getting some finishing information on the Weekender page soon!

[Eagle]

Me again!!!

Noted you have the axle at 49 inches from the back. How did you come up with this distance. Somewhere there is a formula that gives this distance for an 8 footer to be 34.5 inches and a 10 footer 46.5.

So, what IS the formula for getting the axle in the correct spot? And I guess while I am here, what about a tongue length formula?

Thanks and sorry for having so many : : : , but I think the only dumb question is the one you don't ask.

Eagle

[mikeschn]

Me again!!!

Noted you have the axle at 49 inches from the back. How did you come up with this distance. Somewhere there is a formula that gives this distance for an 8 footer to be 34.5 inches and a 10 footer 46.5.

I've used this formula before, with less than ideal results... So this time I am using a spreadsheet that Rik Keller started, and Andrew added to...

Here are my initial calculations using that spreadsheet...

You can do your own spreadsheet too, using the templates here...
http://www.angib.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/t ... tear45.htm

[Eagle]

Greetings,

I like the "new final" design much better. Profile looks better and I see more possibilities.

Are you putting ALL of the side framing ON the floor? The drawing looks like you are putting the bottom angle pieces on the front/back of the floor. How are you attaching the bottom angle pieces to the front of the floor? Glue and Screw? If you are attaching them to the ends, I assume that the exterior sides will cover the outside edges of the floor. Had the impression that you were putting the frame and cover on top of the floor. (I am soooo confused)

Thank you for finding what I feel is the answer for the skin. How much of each product the rot doctor has should on get? How do you "powermix" when you cannot use a power drill : : : How long did you wait between coats, both the CPES and Uniflex255?

Thanks,

Eagle

PS: Note that you have this copywrited, what does this mean to the DIY'er?

[mikeschn]

Are you putting ALL of the side framing ON the floor? The drawing looks like you are putting the bottom angle pieces on the front/back of the floor.

Yes the side pieces are on the floor. The front and read angle pieces are attached to the subfloor with glue and screws, and do not sit on the floor.
Yes, the exterior sides will cover the outside edges of the floor.

How are you attaching the bottom angle pieces to the front of the floor? Glue and Screw? If you are attaching them to the ends, I assume that the exterior sides will cover the outside edges of the floor. Had the impression that you were putting the frame and cover on top of the floor. (I am soooo confused)

Thank you for finding what I feel is the answer for the skin. How much of each product the rot doctor has should on get? How do you "powermix" when you cannot use a power drill : : : How long did you wait between coats, both the CPES and Uniflex255?

I powermixed with a drillmotor and the paint mixer attachment. I waited 1 day between coats, on the weekend, or until the next weekend if it was on a Sunday.

PS: Note that you have this copywrited, what does this mean to the DIY'er?

It doesn't mean a thing if you want to use it for personal use. My intent is to keep people from selling it, or reproducing it elsewhere. As things are always improving, I want people to have access to the latest information. I also want people to read and hopefully participate on the board.

[Eagle]

Mike wrote:
[ quote]I powermixed with a drillmotor and the paint mixer attachment. I waited 1 day between coats, on the weekend, or until the next weekend if it was on a Sunday[/quote].

So, Mike, how did you "keep" what was left for the next day or did you have to mix a new "batch". How much do you think the weekender will need? I thought it was interesting that he said to powermix and then warned about using a power tool.

For the exterior skin/roof did you use the same thickness of ply? i.e. 1/4 inch or what did you use. I assume you ripped 1 x 6 pine to use for the framing.

What thickness of ply are you using for the hatch? I assume the roof overlaps the sides and you are doing likewise with the hatch. Are you using "T" molding or just weather strip and forget it? Ribs for the hatch?

Roof crossmembers, six inches apart or what?

Will the lights on the trailer frame from HF keep me legal?

Thanks

Eagle

Now, where do I put the hot tub :idea:

[mikeschn]

So, Mike, how did you "keep" what was left for the next day or did you have to mix a new "batch". How much do you think the weekender will need?

I mixed a new batch every day. The first time I painted I mixed a whole gallon, and only used 1/2. What a waste. The next time I mixed just half a gallon and it worked out good. Only about 1/2 inch left in the can. My best guess for the weekender is about 1 1/2 gallons.

For the exterior skin/roof did you use the same thickness of ply? i.e. 1/4 inch or what did you use. I assume you ripped 1 x 6 pine to use for the framing.

Yes I ripped 1x6's I figure it was cheaper that way. I also bought the cheapest would that would work. Around the curves on the Baja Benroy I used 1/8" luan. On the straight sections I used 1/4" luan. For the Weekender I can use 1/4" luan on almost everything.

What thickness of ply are you using for the hatch? I assume the roof overlaps the sides and you are doing likewise with the hatch. Are you using "T" molding or just weather strip and forget it? Ribs for the hatch?

For the hatch I am going to use plywood ribs again, and cover it with 1/4" luan on the outside, and 1/8" luan on the inside, because I have to bend it around the curve

Roof crossmembers, six inches apart or what?

I won't know about the roof members until I build that panel this weekend. BTW, my plan is to build all the roof panels this weekend. There are about 6 of them. I plan on ripping 1x6's to whatever makes sense. I'll let you know this weekend.

Will the lights on the trailer frame from HF keep me legal?

I suppose laws could vary from state to state, but me expectation is that I'll make the trailer legal without the body, and then I can use it for hauling stuff home from Home Depot, or for hauling my teardrop body up to camp. Kinda like what DanL does with his cargo pod. I do plan on adding some led taillights on the Weekender, and having a 4 prong plug that will plug into the wiring harness on the chassis.

Now, where do I put the hot tub :idea:

I believe the hottub converts into a bed by putting boards across it!!!



Mike...

[Eagle]

Mike wrote:
For the hatch I am going to use plywood ribs again, and cover it with 1/4" luan on the outside, and 1/8" luan on the inside, because I have to bend it around the curve

Why not use 1 x 3's for ribs? Not sure about the bend. Isn't it a 110 degree turn? Thought about just using two pieces for the hatch. You must be going to round that off inside. Thus, ply ribs not solid pine. Will the hatch rest on the sides? Assuming they will. What type of weather stripping do you recommend?

Eagle (still working on the quote)

PS: to save weight, I think I will just put in a sauna

[mikeschn]

I would use plywood because it has more resistance to springback (or straightening) than solid wood does. The hatch design is not locked down in stone. I am also going to pick up a piece of 1/2" plywood this morning and experiment with other options, looking for the simplest way to build it.

As for the sauna, is that a steam sauna or a dry sauna?

Mike...

P.S. For the weather stripping, the heavy black stuff from home depot. I'll see if I can take a picture of it later...

[mikeschn]

Here's the weatherstrip I used on the Baja Benroy...



Seems to be working just fine!!!

Mike...

[Arne]

Mike, where did you get it...?

I like the thickness.... but seems like it would not be available at pep boys, more like marine supply.

[mikeschn]

I got that at Home Depot.

Mike...