Blue43 5x11 teardrop

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Blue43 5x11 teardrop

Postby Bluetoys » Sun Oct 12, 2008 3:08 pm

This is my drawing for a 5'x11' trailer. It will have a 60"x80" queen mattress. I drew it with 5' sidewalls, more for the look than anything. My thought is that I might be able to have storage under the floor, between the frame rails. The galley was transferred from a 5'x10' drawing that I originally had before I stretched to 11'. I think it still works, but kinda leery of the reach. I might want to change the door to take up more of the lower curve. Any observations on this? I know the cabin looks big, but trying to get away from claustrophobic issues with the S.O. I think I might add a cabinet the the cabin wall of the galley to off set it. The front of the cabin will be a shelving of sorts, the curve shows the profile.
Thanks for any input,
Matt

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Postby Esteban » Sun Oct 12, 2008 4:08 pm

Matt, It looks like a good starting idea. To my eye the wheels look like they may be too far forward for good trailer balance. In the Design Library there's information and a spreadsheet to help you figure out good trailer balance. I also wonder why you have such a long reach from the rear of the tear drop to the galley counter top? It doesn't look like a comfortable reach.
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Postby Bluetoys » Sun Oct 12, 2008 4:16 pm

I measured the distance from the outside of the lip to the rear of the counter, it was 34". I agree that it looks too deep, I think maybe I should continue the galley door around the lower curve. Should I go all the way to the horizontal section...? The wheels are put there by guess. I thought they looked ok there, I didn't use the sheet yet, but I thought maybe with the majority of the space forward of the axle that I would be close.
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Postby Eddielbs » Sun Oct 12, 2008 4:32 pm

Bluetoys,
I had the same concern in my galley, Thats why i went with the hatch shape i chose. It allowed me to get the counter top back almost flush with the frame. This way when your standing at the counter you can get right up next to it and work comfortably. It also helps with the bumps on the shins.


here are a few pictures of the way i did it.. I not saying its the best way to do it but it may give you some more ideas..


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Postby Bluetoys » Sun Oct 12, 2008 4:34 pm

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Last edited by Bluetoys on Sun Oct 12, 2008 4:57 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby Eddielbs » Sun Oct 12, 2008 4:38 pm

I think that would be a lot more user friendly.. By the way i love your color choice... :)
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Postby Bluetoys » Sun Oct 12, 2008 5:01 pm

thanks. I like the color alot.
I was editing and changed the pic while you posted, does it look too bulky now at the end of the door? it wouldnt be too heavy, but it looks like it. I would form the doors with the cut-to-shape rib method from the top to the lower tip
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Postby Eddielbs » Sun Oct 12, 2008 5:27 pm

Matt, Now this is just my 2cents and as always you should build your tear to suit yourself.. What type of tow vehicle are you planning to use? The reason i bring that up is my tear is close to your design length.. It is 11'6" inches long but i only used 4' sheets. The reason i went with that height was to keep the Tear tucked in behind my TV.. Believe it or not by doing this our TV only loses 2 tenths of a MPG while towing the tear fully loaded with our gear. As for being cramped my wife has a problem with claustrophobia also. And she has never felt cramped even with my 280 lb body, our 2 dogs (a 65lb lab and a 10 lb terrier) are sleeping in the tear with her.. I just figured this maybe something you might want to consider.

(Notice the top of the tear is just about as high as the roof on my TV.)
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PS: I'm not sure the hatch change was for the better in your drawing i feel it would be a little bulky if not even heavy.. Do you plan to skin your tear with aluminum on the top?
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Postby Bluetoys » Sun Oct 12, 2008 6:14 pm

I have an explorer and a mustang, thinking I would add a hidden hitch for the mustang. I also have a '66 T bird as a project, but I dunno when (if) it is gonna be drivable.
Yes, would like to use aluminum on the hatch. The hatch would only be that shape at the sides(3/4" ply). Inside would be aluminum skin>1/8" luan>3/4" plywood ribs>1/8" luan. Gas shocks to hold it up. Hurricane hinge held by hardwood spars. There will be a couple of area lights for the galley and maybe the taillights because I do not see where they would go other than the fenders.
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Postby Eddielbs » Sun Oct 12, 2008 6:42 pm

Bluetoys wrote:I have an explorer and a mustang, thinking I would add a hidden hitch for the mustang. I also have a '66 T bird as a project, but I dunno when (if) it is gonna be drivable.
Yes, would like to use aluminum on the hatch. The hatch would only be that shape at the sides(3/4" ply). Inside would be aluminum skin>1/8" luan>3/4" plywood ribs>1/8" luan. Gas shocks to hold it up. Hurricane hinge held by hardwood spars. There will be a couple of area lights for the galley and maybe the taillights because I do not see where they would go other than the fenders.


Matt, Well the height wouldn't matter much on any of those vehicle's i guess. The stang is to low to cover the tear anyway and the Explorer would be plenty tall enough to cover the 5 foot walls you have planned i would think anyways. I do really like the shape of your profile its got some nice curves. :thumbsup: :thumbsup: Good luck on your build :cheerswine:

PS: If i had to guess what my hatch weighed I would say its pushing 60 or 70 lbs but thats using .063 thick alum (its the thinest 5' wide stuff i could find) and i used 1/4 inch ply to skin my hatch so its going to be about 100lbs with the inside skin and lights installed. Hope you have as much fun building your TD as i did building mine.. :)
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Postby Miriam C. » Sun Oct 12, 2008 8:32 pm

Cute design that hides the large size. I'd say you got the proportions right. It might look a bit narrow from the front. Not sure :thinking:

The galley :? I continued my hatch around and really regret it. I didn't think I had the skill to make two hatches and have them land right and some issues with the trailer it's self contributed. It is a problem when open. That 12 inches ends up a headbanger unless it is opened really high.

You can alway cut it and make the bottom part drop from a hinge. You might cad it to see if it works for you. :thumbsup:

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Postby Nitetimes » Sun Oct 12, 2008 10:08 pm

Bluetoys wrote: The wheels are put there by guess. I thought they looked ok there, I didn't use the sheet yet, but I thought maybe with the majority of the space forward of the axle that I would be close.


Therein lies the problem. You have a lot of space in front of the axle but most of your weight behind it. Your rear cabin and galley cabinets are all behind the axle. That is really gonna lighten your tongue up.
Rich


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Postby leaded » Sat Oct 18, 2008 1:50 am

Eddie, you did a great profile on your tear, which height is it inside on yours?
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