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Need help with final profile design

PostPosted: Sun Feb 14, 2010 11:56 pm
by rwelp
I am building a 5' x 10'3" x 4' tall TD with an interior similar to Mike's Lil Diner but I am wanting to change the side profile. The sketch below is what I have so far(I am illiterate when it comes to cad). Each sq. is 3". I am happy with the rear part of the profile, but not so sure of the front curviture(basically a 24" radius). :o
Image

PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 3:10 am
by bobhenry
Rob : Your profile reminds me of our camping pals John and Rose Spratt. Their trailer is a good example of what your may look like , here are a few shots.


http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?t=31014

PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 9:22 am
by aggie79
Rob,

I like your design. It is apppealing to the eye. Your profile is space efficient and should be comparatively easier to build because you don't have any complex curves.

I used the same design approach - graph paper and pencil - because I don't know any CAD programs. I tried to learn one but decided that, even with the slow pace of my build, my teardrop would be finished in less time than it would take for me to become proficient with CAD. Using a 3" grid will allow you to transfer this to your plywood or template at full-size.

Have fun with your build,

Tom

PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 7:57 pm
by mikeschn
At 5' wide and 123" long, I'm guesstimating your tongue weight at 160#.

Here is an early design of the Lil Diner..
Image

Here's what I finally went with...
Image

You might want to tweak your front profile and your door location. You might want to work on your overall length too. Either shorten it up to 120" (An even 10', or lengthen it to an even 12'. It's also sitting a little high. Is that what you want?

Mike...

PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 11:13 pm
by rwelp
Thanks for the input Mike. The problem I'm working through on this build is mainly the trailer I started with and my budget. I wish I had either started from scratch with the frame or bought a harbor freight frame, but I couldn't afford that so I bought a frame off of craigslist because the price fit my very limited budget($125). The frame is 5' wide x 9'3" long. The trailer has 14" tires and has shackles and leaf springs which is where the height comes from(6 leaves). Right now the floor is 21.5" from the ground. I believe I can get this lower by putting 12 or 13" wheels on it and removing some leaves from the springs. I am going to take your advice and cut the length to 10' even, I have even thought of cutting the length back to the length of the frame. I originally posted this topic because I wasn't happy with the front profile. I like your profile much better, but I don't want to extend the rear past the end of the frame. I still have the Lil Diner grid drawings you sent me and I was trying to use them and yet change them to fit my frame. As for the door location, which way do think I should go with it? Here is a pic of what I have so far. The front wall of the drop down is 18" from the front edge of the floor and frame.
Image :roll: :thinking:

PostPosted: Tue Feb 16, 2010 1:43 pm
by synaps3
I wish you were in my area! My HF frame is a bit too small for my build; I might have considered a trade. Any chance you're driving through Atlanta in the next few weeks? :lol:

PostPosted: Tue Feb 16, 2010 6:50 pm
by mikeschn
Rob,

I think your build looks real good so far. I didn't realize you were so far along.

I would continue with your plan, and perhaps just tweak the front radius a little bit.

With a Benroy back end and a Lil Diner front end, you ought to be able to come up with a name for it! :D

Mike...

PostPosted: Tue Feb 16, 2010 8:23 pm
by rwelp
Thanks Mike,
I actually thought about a true Benroy rear profile for my build. Do you think it would look ok with a rear profile closer to the Benroy than what I have now? It would definitely give me a little more galley space than what I have drawn now. I just don't want too straight of a profile along the top. Do you still think I should tweak the location of the door? I think I will make it a little narrower. :)

PostPosted: Tue Feb 16, 2010 8:36 pm
by mikeschn
rwelp wrote:Thanks Mike,
I actually thought about a true Benroy rear profile for my build. Do you think it would look ok with a rear profile closer to the Benroy than what I have now? It would definitely give me a little more galley space than what I have drawn now. I just don't want too straight of a profile along the top. Do you still think I should tweak the location of the door? I think I will make it a little narrower. :)


Rob,

If you have not cut your side profile yet, you can play with it on your graph paper. I've played with a lot of profiles, and as long as it flows, it looks good.

Your door location is fixed already. It should be centered on your dropped floor. Plus or minus a couple inches... it's your choice.

Everything else is flexible.

I would do a Benroy back end for maximum space, and a Lil Diner front end so you have a little storage.

Here's what you need to do.
1) Grab your sketch paper and draw your chassis, along with the floor that you have built so far.

2) Throw on a Benroy rear end, and a Lil Diner front end, and see if you like it.

3) Take a picture of your sketch, and share it with us... ;)

Mike...

PostPosted: Wed Feb 17, 2010 10:35 am
by rwelp
mikeschn wrote:
Rob,

If you have not cut your side profile yet, you can play with it on your graph paper. I've played with a lot of profiles, and as long as it flows, it looks good.

Your door location is fixed already. It should be centered on your dropped floor. Plus or minus a couple inches... it's your choice.

Everything else is flexible.

I would do a Benroy back end for maximum space, and a Lil Diner front end so you have a little storage.

Here's what you need to do.
1) Grab your sketch paper and draw your chassis, along with the floor that you have built so far.

2) Throw on a Benroy rear end, and a Lil Diner front end, and see if you like it.

3) Take a picture of your sketch, and share it with us... ;)

Mike...



Well I got out the paper as you suggested and modified the profile again. I tweaked the front profile to more closely resemble the Lil Diner and modified the rear profile to more closely resemble the Benroy. Drawing shows 2 profiles on the rear. I'm leaning toward the the lower one(marked Alt. profile). I also made the door narrower. I think I like this one, but I'm not sure of the length of flat section on the top. Sure wish I knew some cad to have look at it in 3d.
;)

Image

PostPosted: Wed Feb 17, 2010 7:11 pm
by mikeschn
Rob,

You did a good job on that picture. The angle made it very easy to see the curves...

I think it would end up looking something like this...

Image

Image

At first blush, I think I would add a skirt to the bottom, at least down to the bottom edge of the fenders.

The trailer and floor that you have built so far... is that what you have on that drawing? If so, the skirt would be the rounded part that you see on my rendering...

Mike...

P.S. If you'd like to spin it around a little bit yourself, here's a PDF
http://www.mikenchell.com/images/rwelp.pdf

PostPosted: Wed Feb 17, 2010 8:39 pm
by rwelp
Mike,
I really appreciate the rendering of my drawing. Are you sure it isn't real? It sure looks like a real trailer. I was as accurate as I could be with my drawing, the steel frame is 3" c-channel. To keep from losing too much inside height I am only running my plywood sides to the bottom of the wood floor. I will be skirting it to cover the steel frame. I am hoping to keep it as a woody, but if I screw up I can always paint it. Once again thanks. With your pics I was able to show my wife what it is going to look like, now she is a little more excited. 8) :thumbsup:

PostPosted: Thu Feb 18, 2010 5:10 am
by mikeschn
Glad to help.

I also wanted to show you about the skirt I was talking about. You can make a 3" skirt, and attach it to the side of your frame. Cover the seam with a piece of aluminum. What a difference that skirt would make...

Image

Image

I would cover the edges and the back of the plywood skirt with black asphalt emulsion before attaching the skirt to the frame. That way if water gets trapped behind the skirt, or inbetween the two pieces of ply, it won't rot away.

Mike...

PostPosted: Thu Feb 18, 2010 7:46 am
by rwelp
Mike,
I can't thank you enough, your help and feedback is invaluable. If I don't screw up and leave this as a woodie, my skirting will be made of solid cherry.
Rob :D :thumbsup:

PostPosted: Thu Feb 18, 2010 4:34 pm
by mikeschn
rwelp wrote:Mike,
I can't thank you enough, your help and feedback is invaluable. If I don't screw up and leave this as a woodie, my skirting will be made of solid cherry.
Rob :D :thumbsup:


Sounds good. Now lets get the pictures coming! :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Mike...