Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

The concept of my teardrop design is to have an offroad capable teardrop camper that can be used as a utility trailer during its non-camping life. It will not be used as a rock crawler, more washboard roads that a un-modified Toyota T100 can travel. The dimensions are a 57-inch (between the fenders) by 9 foot utility trailer with a 5 foot wide by 9 foot long teardrop pod (removable) that fits on top. The pod will have a steel sub-frame that has exposed ends to allow a steel tube to be slipped into it. With a steel tube inserted that is longer than the wheelbase of the trialer, you could then jack up the teardrop pod, clearing the fenders, and pull the trailer out from under the pod. Here is a SketchUp model, with the sub-frame shown between the teardrop pod and the utility frame (the sub-frame won't be visible when built and the utility frame will be over-hung to hopefully create a more aesthetic look).



I was thinking of using the offroad type jacks to lift up the pod, needing just two and using jackstands to set the teardrop pod on. The lifting of the pod would be a two person job. The utility trailer will be 2"x2" frame with a 3"x3" tongue, and the subframe will be 1"x1" with 2"x2" ends. The exposed ends could also be used like the four corner hitch design.

The pod will be framed with ¾ inch framing, insulated, and skinned with 1/8 inch plywood on the interior and exterior. The top will be aluminum skinned. The floor will most likely be a single thickness of ½ inch plywood relying on the mattress for insulation.

To connect the teardrop to the camper I have been thinking of the design below. This would fit into stake pockets on the utility frame with brackets that clamp it to the utility frame using threaded bar. Here is a SketchUp model (looking from underneath with parts removed for (hopefully) clarity).



I’d appreciate and comments on the design. I have looked around the site for a comparable design but I have not seen it executed quite like I would like (maybe I should take that as a warning?). I’m a little worried that this design will sound like a heap of rattling steel when traveling down a dirt road. Anyone know of wear strips that could separate the two steel frames? Maybe strips of UHMW plastic (cutting board material)?

Thanks for the input.

Overbuilding, I'd say. The 1" longitudinal tube is so weak over the length of the body that I don't see much point in having it there - the body sides themselves will be maybe 10 times stronger. A plate at either end of the two jacking cross-members would carry the load into the body.

My first thought was to not make the jacking cross-members permanent - completely removable 2x2s wider than the body would avoid the sliding extension issue and those notches would be strong enough to carry the body weight. However making sure the body doesn't slip off the cross-members is probably harder than making the extensions.

You might be able to devise a simple loading/unloading routine that just involves tipping the trailer one way, putting stands under the up end and then tipping it the other way. Stick a 4x2 block in each end and you could gradually lift the body enough just by tipping the trailer - though it would be a two-person job.

If you drop the 1x1 tube you'll have wood to sit on the trailer frame and that sounds fine to me. Maybe a sliver of rubber would avoid fretting - old car tyre inner tube stuck with contact adhesive would be ideal.

Andrew

Andrew, thanks for the input, I appriciate it very much, even though I immediatly jump to defend by design. I'm trying to walk the line between lightweight design and long-term durability and ease of use. I think that it will be a tough challenge to get a teardrop camper that can also be used as a utility trialer. It has to be easy to switch between the two uses, while still providing a lightweight trailer. I don't want something that is the worst of both worlds, but I also don't have the space for storing two trailers (maybe not event the space for one) but I do have the need(want?) for two.

I have struggled with the need for a steel sub-frame, but my main concern is connecting the teardrop pod to the utility trailer. With the stresses involved with holding the teardrop pod to the utility trailer frame at only a few points (right now I would have six, three per side), I am leaning to having a steel subframe over a wooden frame. Peace of mind with steel being more durable over the long haul.

I don't think I'll need the rear 2"x2" lifting point, as I won't need to clear the fenders at the rear. I could simply lift directly off the steel frame and set it up on a jack stand.

The idea for lifting the teardrop pod came from a slide in camper design, lifting off the corners. I looked into the jacks that are used for slide-ins, but offroad jacks have about the same lifting distance and they are multi-use. I wouldn't need both of them on most trips, but one could be handy. Here are two views (a little crude, but the idea is there):





I probably should clarify on the attachment bracket. I envision having six such brackets welded onto the 1"x1" steel sub-frame to line up with six stake pockets on the utility trailer. Overbuilt, probably, but I don't want to be driving down the interstate or on a backroad and suddenly realize I'll have to use the utility trailer to haul my once teardrop pod to the dump.

Does anyone have a different idea for connecting the teardrop pod to the utility trailer? I want something that is simple in its design and also relatively simple to detach from the trailer. I also need to have a certain amount of redundancy in the design, with offroad abuse in mind.

I had a '49 kit that I put on a decked motorcycle trailer. I used turnbuckles to attach it, worked fine. I'd think in your case some small guide tabs to hold it all in place would be a good idea. It all sort of depends on just how quickly and how often you want to make the change. If'n it were me, I don't think I'd use a plastic type material between the 2 frames. Could act like slip and slide...On dump truck bodies we used a strip of wood and countersunk a carriage bolt into it between the frame and dump body. Just my opinion. Doug

I worked on the SketchUp model a little bit. My earlier post did not show the correct overhang on the side. There will be about a 1.5" overhang over the utility trialer on each side. This view is trying to show how the bracket would look. The front face of the bracket is transparent to show detail.



And here is a side view



I'm thinking the sides of the teardrop will be wood with decorative trim. I might try to incorporate a wood molding to cover up the brakets and give the teardrop a more finished look. If I can pull it off, I'd like to have a Greene and Greene (California Arts and Crafts furniture) look to the wood trim, with cloud lifts.

This is an interesting concept, I too would like to have a removable pod, how have your ideas been coming along, have you started to build yet.

In my case I have a 4.5 ft x something aluminum trailer that is awesome, torsion dexter axel with 13 inch tires.

I also want to use the fence pockets to secure the pod, your drawing isn't clear for me (don't worry I'm a bit dense) I would think that a simple piece of metal work that starts under the pod then bends up the body and then bends outward to cover the fence pocket top would be a good easy and strong attachment point once some bolts are used to secure the pod at those points

I have started construction of my teardrop, but I decided not to follow the idea of having it removable. It is under "The Simon's Traildrop". Progress is slow due to work right now, mostly I have just milled parts, but assembly has not happened in a while.

My idea was to have blocks that fit into the fence post pocket, then clamp to the trailer frame with a metal bracket. I reasoned that the blocks would prevent side to side movement, and the bracket would prevent it from flying off.

The reason I abandoned the removable teardrop was the idea of having to remove and attach the teardrop would be to much of a hassle. The main reason I am building the teardrop is to have a all-in-one place, ready-to-go at a moments notice camping set up. Multi-use seemed to hinder that idea. If I really need a trailer, I'll either borrow a rent a trailer.

For jacking up and removing the camper pod, my initial plan is to use scaffolding leveling screws.

Wow. 13 year necro posting. might be a record. My plan is hoisting cab in garage. 4 lifting points and pulleys and a utility winch. Using casket locks to hold cabin and utility box on trailer.

Well I am jumping into the deep end and grabbing info wheresomeever I can find it. My experience in my past pre-enrolling lurking here on TNTTT over the last few years is that there are NOT a lot of pipples who admit to using or building "piggyback" tears. So I am garnering my info wherever someone leaves it lying about.

Even in reading this "dead" thread's "failed" attempt I have come up with new ways to approach my project including your hoist-in-the-garage idea. I won't be able to use a hoist or lift system to store it on a rack/stand in the garage but it will come in handy for some of the building process. So out in the "back 40" (feet not acres) where my TT module will be on a rack probably raised in lowered by some screw jack like scaffold type I've seen at Home Depot.

And casket locks-don't know what they are but I will be looking them up as well as (inspired by your coffin lock suggestion) how they mount piggyback cargo containers on semi trailers and rail-cars. Hmmmmm . As hey say in the UK, "Thanks bruv!"

So this OP's attempt has helped further the teardrop cause.

Harbor Freight sells a sidewinder trailer tongue jack that is clamp-on. I have used them (modified slightly), to pull fenceposts, and as lifting jacks for a chicken tractor. Quite versatile, limited only by your imagination. Nothing says you can't mount them to an insert for your frame, stick them in when removing the "pod", and leave them in place as jack stands until such a time to reinstall the "pod".

Just a suggestion.....Roger

GTS225 wrote:Harbor Freight sells a sidewinder trailer tongue jack that is clamp-on. I have used them (modified slightly), to pull fenceposts, and as lifting jacks for a chicken tractor. Quite versatile, limited only by your imagination. Nothing says you can't mount them to an insert for your frame, stick them in when removing the "pod", and leave them in place as jack stands until such a time to reinstall the "pod".

Just a suggestion.....Roger

That's a good idea and relatively inexpensive. You could also use them at the campsite as leveling jacks.

Pmullen503 wrote:That's a good idea and relatively inexpensive. You could also use them at the campsite as leveling jacks.

There ya go.......brainstorming in practice.

Every once-in-a-while, I can still surprise folks.....Roger

For jacking up and removing the camper pod...

I build the cabin off the chassis and then attach it when it's nearly done. It's enough of a job that I wouldn't want to do it annually–-even with a system.

https://youtu.be/f9zh8GgOTtg?si=E4UtSRic3Wc_1Uz5




Tony

https://us.tchweb.com/collections/roto-locks#gref

many more sites. aka: roto-lock