Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

I sold my 4x6 and bought a 5x8 so now I can start the build. It has a aluminum plate on top. Going to get the bigger wheels saturday and after I get them put on and wire my suv for trailer lights I will go get the wood and start building after I clean it up.
<img src="http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z277/REBELEE_photo/katie10036.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket">

bjp wrote:I sold my 4x6 and bought a 5x8 so now I can start the build. It has a aluminum plate on top. Going to get the bigger wheels saturday and after I get them put on and wire my suv for trailer lights I will go get the wood and start building after I clean it up.
<img src="http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z277/REBELEE_photo/katie10036.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket">

Just me but I would sell the Al. plate and use the proceeds to buy wood........Unless you want an aluminum floor I guess with a mattress you really wouldn't know and you could always put some insulation if needed....

Miriam C. wrote:

bjp wrote:I sold my 4x6 and bought a 5x8 so now I can start the build. It has a aluminum plate on top. Going to get the bigger wheels saturday and after I get them put on and wire my suv for trailer lights I will go get the wood and start building after I clean it up.
<img src="http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z277/REBELEE_photo/katie10036.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket">

Just me but I would sell the Al. plate and use the proceeds to buy wood........Unless you want an aluminum floor I guess with a mattress you really wouldn't know and you could always put some insulation if needed....

good idea.

I always let the trailer decide the build. Your trailer already has a bullet proof floor. No undercoating no rock concerns no possible racking corner to corner. I think it is a great score myself. Build your trailer about 2 " taller than your original plan and simply lay in 2 sheets of 1/2 or 3/4 foam and a subfloor of 7/16 OSB or 1/2 plywood as your new subfloor. No need to fasten it down just LAY it in. If you are concerned about it a small base cove wood trim will keep it in place should you decide to turn the trailer upside down.

You are now bulletproff underneath and fully insulated as well.

P.S. a nice carpet remnant adds a little over 2 points to the "R" value as well.

I have a question about keeping the metal deck and "floating" a sheet of OSB on top of it:

Metal is much more thermo-conductive than wood, and therefore more prone to sweating in colder temperatures. So when its colder outside, could this create a problem where the moist warm air of the interior condensates between the OSB and metal deck, possibly giving way to mold or rot? Maybe a vapor barrier would prevent this? Maybe I'm overthinking this?

absolutsnwbrdr wrote:I have a question about keeping the metal deck and "floating" a sheet of OSB on top of it:

Metal is much more thermo-conductive than wood, and therefore more prone to sweating in colder temperatures. So when its colder outside, could this create a problem where the moist warm air of the interior condensates between the OSB and metal deck, possibly giving way to mold or rot? Maybe a vapor barrier would prevent this? Maybe I'm overthinking this?

Good point here. At least seal the bottom of the OSB - black goo or whatever would be a good idea!

absolutsnwbrdr wrote:I have a question about keeping the metal deck and "floating" a sheet of OSB on top of it:

Metal is much more thermo-conductive than wood, and therefore more prone to sweating in colder temperatures. So when its colder outside, could this create a problem where the moist warm air of the interior condensates between the OSB and metal deck, possibly giving way to mold or rot? Maybe a vapor barrier would prevent this? Maybe I'm overthinking this?

Hence the reason for the foam.

It will not support mold and will form to the checkered plate to essentially eliminate the gaps.

HAHA sorry Bob... must have skimmed over that point. Going to get more coffee now!

If the whole floor is going to be covered by a mattress then there's no need for wood on top of the insulation foam. You still want to closed cell foam because otherwise moisture will migrate down through your mattress and condense against the aluminum. You just don't need the wood because the mattress will spread loads out just fine.

Instead of rigid XPS (Extruded Polystyrene) you could also use a soft foam as long as it's closed cell (non absorbant). It would make the mattress a bit more comfy. Volara, polyethylene, EVA are some types.