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Cross Surports or Rafters?

PostPosted: Sun Aug 24, 2014 11:51 am
by tyellow57
Hi all Troy here
I needs some input here. I will be raising my walls soon. My walls are 1/2" with 3/4" framing around the edges, then going to insulate. Then inside will be 1/4 maple skin. I saw somewhere, that someone had routed dadoes or rabbits for the rafter I forget which is correct term my mind goes blank sometimes, ha ha. I was thinking of doing the same thing and screwing into from the top instead of from the sides. Which would be better? I know if I go in from the sides this would pull the side in, but don't want to have screws visible. Thoughts and idea's most appreciated. Happy Camping Thank You Troy

Re: Cross Surports or Rafters?

PostPosted: Sun Aug 24, 2014 12:41 pm
by tony.latham
Troy:

Several of us have built using Steve Fredrick's Teardrop Shop Manual. He pushes the method you are mentioning. I'd recommend you purchase a copy here before you put those walls up: http://www.campingclassics.com/shopman05.html

It's about 250 pages with lots of photos. Not cheap but worth every penny.

One advantage of this method is that you put your ceiling in first, and then add your spars. I also really like Steve's hatch building method. It makes for a great dustproof/waterproof seal.

Image

Tony

Re: Cross Surports or Rafters?

PostPosted: Sun Aug 24, 2014 2:31 pm
by tyellow57
Hey Tony

Thanks for the link, will try and find book local cause wanted to raise the walls next Sunday. Troy

Re: Cross Surports or Rafters?

PostPosted: Sun Aug 24, 2014 2:58 pm
by kayakdlk
You can't get more local than downloading Steve's "Builders manual". It is a pdf file. Not sure it is sold in any store.

They are typically called roof spars that go across. Steve Fredericks method is very easy assuming you walls are built with the ledge for the headliner. The headliner lays down on the ledge with a small bead of glue then the spars go on top and screw into the ledge. Put glue on the underside of the spars so you can prop with sticks the headliner up to the spars. Make sure and dry fit it all together first before any glue.

His method make s clean smooth joint with minimal gap. I used a brown caulk to fill any gaps that blended into the wood stain. If you use Steve' method you will already have everything finished (painted, stained and varnished etc.) before assembly. Goes much faster and easier on the back.

Good luck with your build

Dan