Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Has anyone used just basic 3/8" smooth wood siding for their exterior walls?! The guy at the lumber yard suggested it because it's already weather treated and just needs paint...my dad suggests hardy board because it's "awesome" and will last a long time. (I veto because my 110 lb self can't pick it up!!!). A lot of people use ply wood and weather treat the heck out of it and/or cover it in fiberglass or metal or some other sheeted siding. Would love to hear thoughts on easiest most cost efficient options. My current pick is 2x framing with 3/8" wood siding on exterior and 1/8" ply or luan on interior unless someone on here talks me out of that plan. . New to this whole thing...have my design, working out the build plan details!

Cari

FRP or Poor Mans Fiberglass

Two issues: a trailer towed in the rain gets hit with water at all angles so weather proofing siding is a problem. Second, a trailer is being joslted about constantly and so construction that resists raking is desirable.

If you like the siding look then Hardy plank over 1/8" ply sheeted exterior (suitably waterproofed) might be the way to go.

Definitely would be a 4x8 sheet of siding if I did that...not the wood grain or plank siding used on tiny houses and sheds. Still want a smooth side surface that I will paint with whatever is used. What do you mean by "raking" in this context? I am planning to use the canvas Fiberglassing method on the roof...was just trying to avoid having to do it all over because of the amount of sanding/painting/sanding/painting that I would imagine is involved. But that could be the best way anyway. If so what would use underneath? Just regular pressure treated ply or birch ply or ?

There is no reason to use 3/8" material over a sandwiched wall. (If that's the method you are using.) I prefer 1/4" plywood subfloor in and out over a 3/4" skeleton for a standard teardrop. It's cheap, high quality with no voids and built for moist conditions.

The other issue that I see is "3/8" siding". What is that stuff? Some of it is pressed junk. Are you talking plywood T-111 or or something else like lapped cedar? The last guy I'd get trailer building advise from is someone that sells homebuilding supplies. Think about your trailer going down the road at sixty-five in a heavy rainstorm. Water is going to get under any plank type sheathing.

"2X"? If you are thinking of building a teardrop with walls using 2" thick "studs", I think you are grossly overbuilding. 1.5" x 1.5" studs for a standy is a different matter.

You can easily add weight here and there and end up with a tank of a trailer.



That photo is fer a bit of humor...

Tony

Raking should be "racking".

Sheet siding is plywood so that would be good to keep the frame straight. Also fewer seams to leak. Canvas on the roof is a good idea to keep the plywood from splitting over the years and to seal the wall to side joint.

If it was mine, I'd use a smooth, lighter plywood and canvas cover the whole thing if I was going with a painted finish.

Very helpful! Thanks for helping me think through it - the siding was basically like a 4x8 ply in size and like siding in material...the guy didn't even know it existed until he looked it up. Think I'll bail on that idea anyway. When you say sandwiched with 3/4 " Skeleton...do you mean plywood with chunks cut out for insulation? I kind of like the sandwiched styrofoam insulation method as well because it seems easy to shape to the curves. Sounds like if the end result is a custom painted tear, canvas is the way to go. Do you have to treat the exterior ply before laying the canvas?

Other than treating the edges with several coats of 50 percent thinned polyurethane, the canvas glues right to the plywood.

A skeletonized ply core is just what it sounds like. Cut outs are filled with foam insulation.