Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

My 5 year old girl loves camping but I had a heat stroke in Houston in 92 and have never handled the heat like I used to since then.

My girl has Kawasaki disease, asthma, exima and dry chapped skin that plagues filipinas in America's non tropical dry air. The only way I'm sneaking her past the boss is to have heat and AC at the campground for the girl.
I'm a trucker and currently typing this while sitting in my sleeper berth. I just want a box with power, AC, ceramic heater and a queen size bed. No TV, NO stereo, no stove, no water.
The plan is to have a curved nose so it doesnt look like a plywood box with a door (which is what it is), a small AC in the nose, double doors in the back, Menards hopper windows and wired for 12v lights and 110v plugs inside and out.

I have the 1720 HF trailer and I'm about to put a 2" square tube from hitch to tail to strenghthen the tongue and I will put 13" rims on it soon. I'm remodeling my 1927 schoolhouse so I need my trailer and here is my plan:
I want to build a platform that bolts to the trailer at the stake pockets using 1.5x1.5" square tubing and bolts, That will be welded to light angle iron that will be under 1.5"x4.5" wood (2x6 boards chopped to 4.5"). I would put 1/2" treated plywood making an 8'6" x 68" x 5" deep floor that is bolted to the trailer with wheel wells inside the floor. That will be the platform I will build my box on. then I can jack it up and pull my trailer out of it so I can haul construction crap with it on the weekends.

I added a pic. thats the wrong windows and i no longer want to drop the side walls down under the floor but thats the basic plan
I emailed challengerdoor.com and they can UPS me a 26x36 passenger teardrop door (805?) with no window for $225

I hauled a 700 pound load of drywall this weekend and the van actually rode smoother with the load. My Buick Rondezvois is rated for 3500# but I want to keep the total weight under 1000# so I can haul it with something smaller if i need to.

I left something out. I will get one of those SUV tents that hook to the back of a van and hook it to the back of my trailer so I can step out of the back doors and be "outside" without bugs or rain. That way I can use the "curve" camping toilet without spending the next 30 minutes killing mesquitoes.

My real delema is the back door frames. I'm considering having light 1.5" square tubing on the top and sides, buried in wood to keep the back square and then make doors by sandwiching 1x6 boards in 1/4" with a house door knob. That way its user friendly for the kid. probably the normally used door being 28" and the other door being 20" so I can swing them both open when needed to load, unload stuff. my camping gear is in plastic walmart foot lockers

Configuration 1 is sleeping at RV friendly Flying J truckstops while going somewhere with the bare essentials, avoiding hotels on long trips.
config 2 is loading up the trailer with camping toys and then pulling it all out and airing up my air mattress and doing real camping.

Welcome.......

Have you read many of the builds. All you speak of can be done.
My only comment is that you can build lighter than you are talking
about, even in wood. The module you are discussing could be much
more like an airplane's construction than a home and still be very
durable.

Good luck with your adventure. Any questions please just ask. Then
you will have several answers to weigh and choose from.

I've driven semi's since 88 and I'm currently hauling for a welding company that fabricates parts for a major trailer manufacturer. I know how thin trailer walls are . They are currently building a prototype beverage hauling van trailer and the floor is floppy. It gets its strength from the walls and box shape. They have the center of the floor frame clamped to an I-beam to keep it straight for assembly and it's still bowed down in the middle. It amazes me how strong they are with what they are made from.
My current plan is one by three walls and ceiling. I kind of like that plan because it allows me to insulate it. I started my planning while watching YouTube videos of "Harbor freight camper". It wasn't till much later that I started watching teardrop videos. The only thing that intrigues me about the teardrop is the curved front and by using that, it won't look like a plywood box

I just talked to the local welder and he can get me a 2 x 2 square tubing, 12 foot long with 3/16 inch walls for about 60 bucks. The plan is to run the tube from the hitch to the tail and have it end with a Reese hitch on the back. I guessed on the 12 foot part. I have to get exact measurements but I was just wanting to know what it would cost. The whole thing would be under $100 and about 50 pounds. I will start a fresh thread when I actually do it.