Question For The Canoe Folks

Things that don't fit anywhere else...

Postby Bigwoods » Sat Mar 11, 2006 11:22 am

Finn,

You can build a rack in the back even with the roof line, metal or wood. The canoe is supported on the rack and on the roof. You need a roof rack for the cab roof or a low cost way is to use foam blocks under the gunnels of the canoe.

Another, maybe better way, if you have a hitch, is to build a "T" coming up from the hitch. A piece of pipe with a bolt to go through the hitch that will tighten down and support the top bar. If you rig it so the top bar will turn, it really help when you unload the canoe.


TIE DOWNS

When you tie down you are fighting lateral movement. You can run two ropes to the front of the truck and tie down that way. I prefer to take flat webbing, sew a 'D' ring on both end and bolt it to a fender bolt under the hood. You leave it on permantly. These are fed up and ropes can be tied to the sides. That way you do not have obstucted vision and it holds better.

The front needs two ropes or rachets, ropes at the racks, and I always tie down the the back also. You are trying to stop shifting. Sounds like a lot, but I can tie up a canoe in ten minutes.

Real important for you sanity---- If you are useing the flat webbing like with the rachet tie downs you have to put twist in them. If they are not twisted the will make a very high pitch sound that will drive you bats.

DO NOT TIE DIECTLY TO A FACTORY ROOF RACK!! For coushioning you can use the grey pipe insulation works well. If I tie to a roof rack on a SUV ot a goober mobil, I run ropes through the windows and through the interior. DO NOT depend on a factory rack to take the stress.
I will put in a coupla links to show what I an trying to say.

Good ideas here
http://www.canoegear.com/catalog/home.php?cat=39

Check Thule and Yakima for racks also. I usually get ideas and bild my own.

This is a store at the Bounday Waters Area. Pricey , but good stuff.

http://www.boundarywaterscatalog.com/browse.htm?id=81&step=2

Our canoe in the Boundary Water Canoe Area

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Postby Classic Finn » Sat Mar 11, 2006 11:31 am

Here,s a rack I also found.. quite interesting..

http://www.rackwarehouse.com/f1.html

The Thule racks are common here too..


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Postby tupelosue » Sat Mar 11, 2006 1:01 pm

You boys are making some beautiful canoes!

I am a kayaking girl myself, and my main kayak is a necky looksha, hard plastic (because i've dropped it getting on or off the car sometimes) I learned some tie down tips from you Bigwoods, about the twist! thanks.

I tie it to the yakima rack, and also use stern and bow tie downs to the car.
I have ratchet style ties, i guess, but i do belong to the school of:

If you don't know how to tie a knot, tie a lot!



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Postby Classic Finn » Sun Mar 12, 2006 2:49 pm

Now that weve covered the canoe - and rack -

I have another question which may be a simple one to the experts but..
how do we know which "Paddle" to choose and right length?

There seems to be thousands of them to choose from.. :shock:


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Postby Juneaudave » Sun Mar 12, 2006 4:15 pm

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Answering Ira's Original Question

Postby The Teardrop Nanny » Sun Mar 12, 2006 4:37 pm

8)

Did ya notice how long it took Dean to respond to Ira's original question of what canoe would be good for he and his son??? If you ask my man the time....he might tell you how to build a watch instead.

I'm a petite person and find I can handle my green Coleman Marine 18ft by myself to set up on a car/truck or put away, but it is so much easier if you have to port it with two people. I've used it with younger kids who are able to carry it fairly easily. Also, the Coleman "plastic" ones are much more forgiving then wood when you bonk into rocks and other obstacles submerged in the water. :R

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Postby Classic Finn » Sun Mar 12, 2006 5:12 pm

Juneaudave wrote:Finn...try this link http://www.nashwaakpaddles.com/paddles.html#paddlelength



Ok that answers my question....just want to make sure the right length..
Thank You


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