Tankless hot water heaters...???

Things that don't fit anywhere else...

Postby caseydog » Fri Apr 29, 2011 11:41 am

Mark & Andrea Jones wrote:1. The best ones are gas-fired (natural gas or propane) and need to be installed by a certified installer that understands the gas loads involved (ie. sizes the gas piping properly).


Yes, very important. Tankless gas water heaters need to move a lot more BTUs than a tank heater. You gas lines must be up to the job.

I have a gas water heater and two gas furnaces, so some of my gas lines were going to need to be replaced with larger pipes.


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Postby robfisher » Fri Apr 29, 2011 12:38 pm

Casey,

Just like you, I did the math. Anything over 7 or 8 year payoff is seldom a good idea. My payoff came out about 25 years. No matter how much I was in love with the concept of tankless, (and I was!) the payoff just wasn't there.

Rob
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Postby Catherine+twins » Sun May 01, 2011 3:15 am

I had a tankless installed 6 or 7 years ago now. None of the plumbers in town had ever installed one, most said 'NO WAY,' but one said, 'If that's what you want, but don't blame me if it doesn't work like you want." But since the job was to replace a 60 year old furnace and a 30 year old water heater, he was happy to take my money. It was the first one he installed.

Mine is a Bosch, I went with a small system for my 1200 sq ft 1949 3 bd 1 bath ranch. At the time it was about $750 for the water heater, and $700 to install. As noted, we can't shower, run the dish washer, and wash clothes at the same time, but we can make that work. I can shower for an hour if I want to and never run out of hot. But if the water coming into the house from the county water tower is 34 degrees (well, maybe 40), it only gets up to 110. (Just love January!!!) If I had it to do again, I would go for the next size up.

After I had the tankless installed, my gas bill was 1/3 the same month in the previous year. (Okay, it was June and the furnace was never on.) Gas price went up that fall, and in February my bill was the same as the previous year (old water heater AND old furnace), while many of my neighbors were paying double the previous year. Yeah, it wasn't all the water heater, but just the same, I figure it paid for itself in 5 years.

The second tankless my plumber ever installed was in his own house. When I talked to him two years later (he fixed a problem with the new furnace, not the water heater), 70% of his water heater business was tankless. (Probably because the other plumbers in town are still refusing to install them!)

So, all that to say, I love mine and the prices I am seeing quoted here are OUTRAGEOUS!

:?

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Postby GPW » Sun May 01, 2011 4:02 pm

Posted: Sun May 01, 2011 4:07 pm Post subject:
Catherine , had I seen a reasonable price on this , I certainly would have gone for it ... 3 -4 times as much was just CRAZY !!! Odd, it doesn't look as there's much to these units anyway .... unless they've figured out a way to install a computer in it ... for some silly reason ...


Here's one like my Grandma had ... probably still working ... http://www.cincinnatiinphotos.com/home_ ... intenance/
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Postby Mark & Andrea Jones » Mon May 02, 2011 2:55 pm

Wow. I get away from the computer for a weekend and all kinds of info/comments get posted. I'll apologize in advance for the wordiness. :lol:

Re: prices that are quoted. Most installers are not happy having to charge what they do charge, because they don't sell as many of them. Its an expensive product with little markup. The units are not "cheap" at the prices that the installers pay to purchase the equipment, then they have to install it. Place some of the blame for the excessive costs on the manufacturers, too.

The costs involved to install the units properly is not cheap. The cost of gas piping continues to go up substantially and the amount of time that is involved to do the gas piping can be considerable - particularly if you are running a gas line across the entire length of a house. Then there are issues of a finished basement vs an unfinished basement. Then you have to wait for the inspector.

And I won't even begin to address the liability involved. :lol: Anybody want their house to go "Boom!" ???

Another item: one of the things that makes the Rinnai so much better than most of the rest is their gas control valve. This valve is good enough that it controls the amount of gas that is used by the unit in ONE btu increments. These units will go up to 180,000 btu's and more. This is more than some gas furnaces! Most of the other tankless waterheaters that I have seen only have a high/low fire. Maybe someone else knows something about the Bosch or Noritz (or other gas tankless WH) and how good the gas control valve is?

Something else to remember is that the gas tankless waterheater produces enough hot water at a certain efficiency over a certain temperature rise. So, the incoming water temperature plays a BIG part on how efficient (and effective) the units are. That is why the Rinnai tankless units start out at 180,000 btu's. They HAVE to have that kind of power to produce the temperature rise needed and still generate a decent flow rate to the rest of the house. If your water source is ground water (well water), then that temperature rise is fairly constant year 'round. If your water source is surface water (municipal water that comes from a lake / river / etc), then that temperature rise will change seasonally and gas usage will increase/decrease seasonally. Our municipal water will change as much as 15 degs F seasonally. So, the water may not get as hot as you think it should in the winter - and/or the flow rate is reduced because the unit is unable to generate that kind of temperature rise that you are requesting.

If you are interested in purchasing a gas tankless waterheater, one of the best ways to limit the installation costs involved is to get an exterior unit and to place it as close to the gas meter (natural gas) or propane tank as possible (running gas piping is more expensive than running water piping). If you've got to have an interior unit, then the additional expense is going to be the vent piping - which is specially made to handle the exhaust gases.

Someone mentioned the condensing tankless waterheater. There are gas condensing tanked & tankless waterheaters and electric tanked condensing waterheaters. Yes, they are even more efficient than the regular tankless waterheaters - but they are another step more expensive for the units themselves. Some of that cost is offset because for a gas unit, you don't have to have special vent pipes, either, for the interior tankless Rinnai units. I don't know how popular they are (over the regular tankless units) because we haven't had to service any yet.

In houses / small businesses where you don't use a lot of hot water, tankless may be the way to go - so that you are not heating water the same way that Cleopatra did - by lighting a fire underneath a container of water. But if you have a large family, several teenagers in the house, or simply like to fill up that whirlpool in the evening when you get home, you may be running out of hot water in your tanked waterheater that may take several hours to regenerate. However, if the payback is not within your timeframe that you are willing to deal with, don't do it. Its an expensive choice to install one and then find out that you really don't like it. Some people just don't.

Oh, someone mentioned natural gas and the expense of bringing a gas line across the street. If that is the case, go with a propane fired one. You have to have a certain sized tank (maybe 100 gal propane tank???) to provide enough gas pressure, but it is workable. We have a 300 gallon propane tank buried in our front yard. There is just no natural gas on our street and we weren't going to pay to bring it up the hill at least 2.5 blocks.

Sorry for the wordy input. :oops: The thing to remember is that there is nothing wrong with the tankless waterheaters - as long as the homeowners / property owners understand EXACTLY what they are getting in to. Many plumbers simply don't WANT to understand what makes these units tick and therefore become poor spokespeople for selling/installing these units.

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Postby GPW » Thu May 05, 2011 5:49 am

Well, the quote for the tankless was $2000 installed ...not counting the electrician... Yesterday I got the bill to have a regular 50 gal tank unit installed ... $475. 00 complete. Big difference ... :o
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Postby rowerwet » Mon May 09, 2011 5:55 am

I did my install myself, I already had the correct size gas line run to the water heater, Paloma was $700, the direct vent 40gal was $600 (home despot) the vent kit for the paloma was another $300, and they get you by running 2" pipe instead of 3", but my old water heater had a 2" to 3" adapter on it so that went right on the new pipe set up, I also went with double wall steel instead of the stainless that they "recommend".
the big headache you find with tankless is that they have the connections on the bottom of the unit, it took me 8 hrs to solder in the 3/4" copper, also the connections cold and hot were reversed from the way my tank were. With PEX my time would have been much shorter, but I didn't know about PEX then. I used high temp RTV and foil tape over all the connections on the venting and inspect it every year at a minimum, there is no rust on the steel piping yet, and the connections are air tight.
I work with high pressure oxegen, nitrogen, and all kinds of flamable stuff for a living so doing my own install doesn't scare me, I did continue to leak check all the connections for a few days just to keep my family safe.
Since then the service man from my Gas/Oil co has seen and also worked on the install and commented on how I do professional looking work ( I am a professional airplane mechanic so my work standards are higher than most, as I work as if everything will have to fly)
The Rheem units also have a way to set the unit to put out 140* water if you need a higher output for colder input water or for cleaning like in a real kitchen area.
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