Furniture builders/refinishers

[Nitetimes]

I know we got a few around here and I'd like to get some opinions on some stripping/refinishing an antique dining room set.
I've done some quite a while back but I'm wondering what the best stripper is now (calm down Doug, Jack and a few others, I'm not puttin' up a pole!!!).
What I used before was commercial and not to be taken lightly but I don't have access to that anymore any way. Any particularly good strippers you use for this sort of thing? Any to avoid? What I want to do is strip all 3 pieces down and lighten them up as much as possible, I know with the walnut stain they are only going to lighten up so much so I will probably refinish with something like pecan to keep it as light as I can get it.
Next thing I am interested in is what you would use on the table top that would be the most heat resistant. You can see what the last 60 plus years has done to it. This table will get used regularly as it has for those years past, we do use pot holders and such but there's always gotta be one.
I am looking for the highest gloss finish I can get with what else....the least amount of work. The table won't be too difficult to polish but the china cupboard is gonna be tough so the easier the better. Also looking for the finish that's gonna hold up the longest without breaking the bank. I'm sure it's probably asking a lot to get all these from one finish so I'll use different ones if I have to.
I'm not doing this right away so I can gather up stuff for a while if need be.
Also, the best way to repair the damage on the table??
All suggestions, ideas, tips and what not will be appreciated.

[Lynn Coleman]

Hey Rich,

I'm no expert but I have basically sanded down the items I want to refinish. I've used stripers in the past but wasn't all that excited about them. To have them professionally "dipped" has seemed the only decent stripping agent. The older the piece the easier to sand and remember to sand with the grain. (Which I'm sure you already know.)

That's my two cents for what it's worth.

Lynn

[madjack]

I dunno Rich, I have not had much luck with any stripper I ever met...they all cost me money in the end

...seriously though, I have not had much experience with re-finishing furniture...the few times I have, I just went to the store and looked at what they had, read the destructions and bought what seemed like it would work the best...as far as finishes go, what about something like RAKA'a tabletop epoxy...you know, like the stuff they use in restaurants and bars for table tops and bars...also used for doing clock faces and such...not cheap at 60 bucks a gallon and you would havvta check compatibility with any stain or dye you might use........
madjack

[Nitetimes]

I dunno Rich, I have not had much luck with any stripper I ever met...they all cost me money in the end

...seriously though, I have not had much experience with re-finishing furniture...the few times I have, I just went to the store and looked at what they had, read the destructions and bought what seemed like it would work the best...as far as finishes go, what about something like RAKA'a tabletop epoxy...you know, like the stuff they use in restaurants and bars for table tops and bars...also used for doing clock faces and such...not cheap at 60 bucks a gallon and you would havvta check compatibility with any stain or dye you might use........
madjack

I have heard of that but didn't know who made it, seems I read about it somewhere.

[satch]

Most strippers remove paint/varnishes because they adhere to the surface. Since stains absorb into the grain, you may only lighten the piece.Depending on how how deep the stain penetrated, sanding may be the only option, but, again, depending on how deep the stain penetrated, you may need to sand quite abit. May not be worth the time and effort.
PLUS, 60 year old stains and varnishes may contain lead, keep this in mind before going wild with a sander.

[rbeemer]

Hi Rich,

First, it sounds like you are not worried about the value of the antiques and more going for usability. Refinishing will lower the value.

I have used Formbys in the past just remember this will be a very slow process especially with all the grooves and carvings on your pieces. I do not know if you can still get formbys but look for a furniture refinisher. To lighten the pieces they do make wood bleach that you will be able to use on the stain but I woulf first try it on the underside of the table to make sure there are no adverse effects with the wood and stain.

[goldcoop]

Rich-

Acetone is what Pa House Furniture used.
Well vented, NO smoking, Hvy. duty Rubber Gloves.
Flat steel scrapers were used.

You won't get the dark stain out of the flecks in the grain without sanding.

I used "Good Stuff" from Grizzly on a Kitchen Island top (after staining)for a top coat.
8 wipe on coats with light sanding between all coats (except last one).
NO water marks yet!

For the nicks on the top...Tape slightly around the nicks and on the edge, a couple layers deep (this creates a dam) Mix a small amount of clear epoxy & fill 'er up. When dry scrape/sand flush. The epoxy should take your finish enough to be OK. Epoxy also won't shrink & fall out like fillers do.

Good Luck

Cheers,

Coop

[Nitetimes]

Most strippers remove paint/varnishes because they adhere to the surface. Since stains absorb into the grain, you may only lighten the piece.Depending on how how deep the stain penetrated, sanding may be the only option, but, again, depending on how deep the stain penetrated, you may need to sand quite abit. May not be worth the time and effort.
PLUS, 60 year old stains and varnishes may contain lead, keep this in mind before going wild with a sander.

I expect I'll have to sand some, just don't want to get carried away. I don't expect to get it real light.
After all the stuff I've ingested over the years I doubt a little lead will have much effect.
I'll have to remember to use a dust mask tho.

[Nitetimes]

Hi Rich,

First, it sounds like you are not worried about the value of the antiques and more going for usability. Refinishing will lower the value.

But it's ugly!!! It was my wifes mom's furniture so I doubt we'll be looking to sell it any time soon, so your right, not a major concern.
It looks to me like someone at some point put a light coat of something that looks like a light bronze on the faces of the cabinets anyway, not sure what that was.

I have used Formbys in the past just remember this will be a very slow process especially with all the grooves and carvings on your pieces. I do not know if you can still get formbys but look for a furniture refinisher. To lighten the pieces they do make wood bleach that you will be able to use on the stain but I woulf first try it on the underside of the table to make sure there are no adverse effects with the wood and stain.

Added to the list of things to try....thanks.

[Nitetimes]

Rich-

Acetone is what Pa House Furniture used.
Well vented, NO smoking, Hvy. duty Rubber Gloves.
Flat steel scrapers were used.

Sounds fun! Wadda ya mean...no smokin'.....I've never had gas or laquer thinner blow yet!

You won't get the dark stain out of the flecks in the grain without sanding.

Kinda figured that. I can live with it.

I used "Good Stuff" from Grizzly on a Kitchen Island top (after staining)for a top coat.
8 wipe on coats with light sanding between all coats (except last one).
NO water marks yet!

Don't think I've ever heard of it. How is it for heat? Or haven't you set pots on it right off the stove?? For some reason they think you should be able to do that.

For the nicks on the top...Tape slightly around the nicks and on the edge, a couple layers deep (this creates a dam) Mix a small amount of clear epoxy & fill 'er up. When dry scrape/sand flush. The epoxy should take your finish enough to be OK. Epoxy also won't shrink & fall out like fillers do.

Sounds like a plan there!

Good Luck

Cheers,

Coop

[doug hodder]

Rich...I've had good luck with Jasco on automotive type paints/ finishes. and Citristrip on wood finishes. It's not as hot and I think it's environmentally friendly and I know that is a major concern of yours. Doug

[Nitetimes]

Rich...I've had good luck with Jasco on automotive type paints/ finishes. and Citristrip on wood finishes. It's not as hot and I think it's environmentally friendly and I know that is a major concern of yours. Doug

Don't know the Jasco but I do seem to recall the Citristrip....if I remember correctly it was supposed to work pretty good....another one for the 'to try' list.

Most definitely gotta watch out for the eviro stuff, I'd spend ten times as much if it just tells me it's friendly. Riiiigghhtttt

[Micro469]

Good thread.... along the same lines..... My wife wants to strip our oak kitchen cabinets and stain them darker.... she does'nt like the "orange patina" they've turned to. So, if you know of a stripper that will remove the laquer enough to restain......let me know.....

[Roly Nelson]

I've had good luck with any pricey paint remover/stripper. After allowing the stuff to work, I sharpen up my flat blade scraper, then burnish the cutting edge with a hardened, round steel (like a big diameter phillips screwdriver) and scrape away. This usually takes off the old softened finish and the stain as well. More aggressive scraping with the scraper will usually get me down to the original wood, assuming it's not a plywood veneer. The hand-carvings get the same treatment and a narrower similar scraper, sharpened and burnished, like a thin putty knife and a steel brush will work wonders. Good luck.
Roly

[nevadatear]

My dad was a cabinet maker and manufactured/refinished roulette wheels for 30 years and I grew up in his shop. I have used Jasco remover pretty successfully, but it is a mean chemical. Dads hints were to let it work, don't remove it too fast. Nothing works as well as the first coat. Slop it on, I mean really use quite a bit and let it work until it is good and bubbled, scrap off with a scrapper. Repeat until no shiny/finished areas are left. Wash with lacquer thinner to stop the chemical removal process. It won't remove stain, as previous posts have said. That will take sanding. For the remover, Use rubber gloves and long sleeves, it will burn. Unfortunatly, the less toxic stuff just doesn't do the job as well and you will sand your heart out. And this come from me the greeny! Dad used lacquer for years, but moved to Polys later and that is all I use. Good luck
debbie