Table saw horse power

[Tom&Shelly]

We just about have our shop cleaned up, and are once again dreaming about a Sawstop table saw. (Probably won't be ready to purchase until after our Summer trip, at least.)

Right now we have a Craftsman contractor saw, with aluminum base . But the motor claims to be 2.75 hp, and I haven't yet wanted anything more.

I notice the 120 vac Sawstop models (contractor and cabinet "professional" models) are only 1.75 hp. Their cabinet saws have an option for a 240 vac 3 hp motor. Anyone have opinions on whether we should spend more and buy the more powerful saw? As it happens, we already have a 240 vac circuit available (well, it'd be the saw or heat, maybe not both simultaneously, but we can work around that).

So far, I've used our Craftsman to cut 1" oak and poplar, and 2x pine, and I don't anticipate doing much of anything that would require more power.

As always, thanks for your opinions!

Tom

[tony.latham]

I notice the 120 vac Sawstop models (contractor and cabinet "professional" models) are only 1.75 hp.

That's my saw. It has plenty of power. I musta bought it about 2009?

It's nice to be working on a table saw that I respect but don't fear.



Tony

[Pmullen503]

You really have to be careful about HP ratings, just about all portable contractor's saws use universal motors. Larger, higher quality saws use induction motors. The difference is night and day.

A better comparison in current drawn. And even then an induction has a 10-20% efficiency advantage.

A good contractor's saw with a 1.5 HP induction motor and a good blade will easily cut plywood, 2-3" softwood and 1-2" hardwoods. If you are frequently cutting 3/4" dados in MDF, you'll wish you had more power.

If I was in the market, I'd buy a Saw Stop. I nearly lost a thumb 40 years ago.....

[swoody126]

this is an ongoing question for folks building wooden ....'s

though not a direct reply to the OP i increased the power of my el cheapo 10" portable roll around table saw by simply changing the bade

took the 10"x1/8" blade off and replaced it w/ a 7-1/4" Freud Diablo blade in both the 24 tooth and 40 tooth configurations

they sail thru everything i feed them w/ the 40 tooth obviously producing a finer cut/edge on veneers/pywood

going to smaller blades on circular saws has made my tools happier over the years and for portable circular saws it enables me to cut graceful curves when called for

the smaller blades offer less exposure also

as for the Saw-Stop units i have used one and the guard seems to be an integral component of the system and several/many of the operations i use a table saw for can't be done w/ a guard in place

SORRY FOR GOING OFF SCRIPT just felt it might help some readers

sw

[Woodbutcher]

One of the secrets to a good saw is a good quality sharp blade. Most home shops don't need more then 2HP with a good quality fence and a expanded table if room allows.

[Capebuild]

Tom, I have a Bosch 4100 contractor's saw. I've had it for a while, like maybe 10 years. If I had the space, I'd get a more robust saw (like an old delta, or something of a "heavy" variety). But the Bosch folds up for storage when not in use, has wheels for moving it around. I just looked it up and it has 4hp 15 amp. Like others have said a new, sharp blade makes a big difference. I've gotten a lot of use from mine and am pretty happy with it, for what it does. I just did some maintenance on it. There's a miter gear setup used to lower and raise the blade which recently became tough to use due to build up of saw dust in the gearing's teeth. Cleaned that up, and sprayed WD40 on the gears and posts the motor rides on and now works like new. Installed a new Diablo 60 tooth blade and the saw cuts like a charm. I'm getting ready to build drawers for the galley, so wanted to make sure all is in good working order.
My 2 cents.

John

[TCJ]

I have two saws: a Bosch contractor's folding saw (120V, 15A, 4hp), and a Sawstop Pro (220V, 3hp). They both work, but the Sawstop is obviously superior. It has a built-in riving knife and blade guard, but both can be removed if necessary (as they are for certain kinds of cuts). The saw-stop mechanism is internal, and you'll never see it unless it activates (and then you'll really know!)

I've been woodworking for a long time, and have had several "oops" moments with table saws that scared the crap out of me. Never lost a finger, but came close once. I live in an isolated location and sometimes work alone, and the safety features of the Sawstop are there to prevent the situation where I'm bleeding out while my wife has gone to town. To me, the blade-arrest feature is essential.

The more powerful 220V blade on the Sawstop can do more damage, but the fact that I don't ever have to "muscle" wood into it means I tend to use it more safely. The problems with the lighter-duty saw is: (1) it will often burn thick or stressed wood that needs to be fed very slowly without binding the saw; (2) the thinner blade (almost necessary) deflects more, producing rougher and less precise cuts; and (3) it's limited to smaller pieces, unless you want to expand it with side-tables and outfeed tables etc., in which case it isn't very portable anymore. Running a full or even half-size piece of 4x8 plywood through it is a real chore without a helper, and can be quite dangerous.

That being said, I've done a lot of good carpentry and woodwork using my Bosch saw, and used carefully it can almost certainly do everything you want it to do. But if I had 220V available and the money (a lot more money), I'd go for the Sawstop and more HP.

[Capebuild]

The more powerful 220V blade on the Sawstop can do more damage, but the fact that I don't ever have to "muscle" wood into it means I tend to use it more safely. The problems with the lighter-duty saw is: (1) it will often burn thick or stressed wood that needs to be fed very slowly without binding the saw; (2) the thinner blade (almost necessary) deflects more, producing rougher and less precise cuts; and (3) it's limited to smaller pieces, unless you want to expand it with side-tables and outfeed tables etc., in which case it isn't very portable anymore. Running a full or even half-size piece of 4x8 plywood through it is a real chore without a helper, and can be quite dangerous.

Just to step back into the conversation, if using a dull blade, or somewhat dull blade.... what TCJ said is spot on. I know that if I have to ever "muscle" the wood through the saw... time for a new blade. I rarely, if ever, will feed a whole 4x8 sheet through my Bosch saw. I use a circular saw with a straight edge clamped down to the wood to be cut. For the money and if one is shy on work space, I find the Bosch does the task. If I had the shop (floor) space, I'd definitely invest in a "real" table saw.
my 3 cents.

John

[Pmullen503]

..........though not a direct reply to the OP i increased the power of my el cheapo 10" portable roll around table saw by simply changing the bade I took the 10"x1/8" blade off and replaced it w/ a 7-1/4" Freud Diablo blade in both the 24 tooth and 40 tooth configurations they sail thru everything i feed them w/ the 40 tooth obviously producing a finer cut/edge on veneers/pywood..........

I have a 1942 Yates-American combo planer, disc sander and cabinet saw. I went with a smaller 8" blade to compensate for it's somewhat anemic 1 HP induction motor. Built like tank, the fence runs on ball bearings, on ways cast right into the table ("feather guide" fence), it's a joy to use.

[nevadatear]

My husband has the 1.75 sawstop. Does everything he needs it to do. And he has some SERIOUS tools. He feels the 3 horse is more for industrial. The 1.75 is great for the home shop. Love the sawstop!

[Tom&Shelly]

Thank you all for the comments! (And please keep them coming!) It's always gratifying to ask a question and get so many thoughtful responses so quickly. And nothing is off-script as far as I'm concerned; all very good advice. And very helpful!

I should have thought about the difference between a universal motor and an induction motor. The Craftsman contractor saw we have now has a universal motor, so the "2.7 max developed hp" doesn't really relate to the hp rating on the induction motors. I checked and Sawstop categorizes their saws as "jobsite portables" (universal motors), contractor saws, professional cabinet saws, and industrial cabinet saws. The latter three all use induction motors. The contractor saws use 1.75 hp 120 vac motors, and the professional cabinet saws can be ordered with that or a 3 hp 240 vac motor. (I'm looking at their contractor saw or the professional cabinet saw. Haven't yet decide which, or which motor option if we go with the cabinet saw.)

I think we will definitely be buying a Sawstop for their safety features.

Our current Craftsman contractor saw (really a friend's, lent to us long-term) has an aluminum table, which I shimmed up. I also put a new blade on and fixed a very dangerous and poorly made fence by making a new face out of HDF. The original face is concave, guaranteeing a dangerous kickback. I also took advice I'd seen somewhere and aligned the fence so the back is 1/32 nd-of an inch further from the blade than the front. Kickback hasn't been a problem since (knock wood!)

The blade guard is unusable, and unfortunately the cheapy riving knife is attached to it. I've seen pretty nice home-made and third party blade guards, so will have to see how well we like Sawstop's. But we really want the upgrade for safety.

We're looking forward to building a cross-cut sled as a future project, once we have a saw good enough to use it. (After shimming the aluminum table on the Craftsman, it might have worked without binding...)

Then, when our friend comes up to use his saw, we can show him what a really nice one can do!

Tom

[halfdome, Danny]

Since 1972 I’ve had a Rockwell Unisaw 3 hp table saw and love it so much I bought a used one a few years ago for $600.
Jane was hogging my saw with special set ups so that’s why we have two.
I wouldn’t have a Saw Stop for anything since they won’t share that technology with other manufacturers.
If it’s about safety the why corner that market.
I respect my equipment and I still have all ten functional fingers.
Danny

[tony.latham]

I wouldn’t have a Saw Stop for anything since they won’t share that technology with other manufacturers.
If it’s about safety the why corner that market.

They have offered to sell the technology they developed to other manufacturers. But none are willing to pay for it.

Heck, it's the ugly side of capitalism, I suppose.

I bought mine because of a friend, that I call three-finger Jack. For me, individually, in my shop, it is about safety.

Tony

[gudmund]

?? ten "functional" fingers ?? - all 10 of mine are "still" 'functional' being I still have "all" of the knuckle joints that are still working - just "not quite" all of the fingers are there...... (11Nov68 -age 14- the right thumb did get shortened just a bit after the table saw got done with it - still have about 2/3 of the thumb with a 'still' working knuckle joint - 54 years ago now .............. )

[tony.latham]

?? ten "functional" fingers ?? - all 10 of mine are "still" 'functional' being I still have "all" of the knuckle joints that are still working - just "not quite" all of the fingers are there...... (11Nov68 -age 14- the right thumb did get shortened just a bit after the table saw got done with it - still have about 2/3 of the thumb with a 'still' working knuckle joint - 54 years ago now .............. )

Gives me the willies.



Tony