Portable solar inlet / wall plug option

[TimC]

Like many here I will be using a portable solar panel set-up to charge my TD battery. I want to have a 25' or thereabouts length of wire from the panel to a plug in point on the side or under the TD. What do folks use for an inlet/plug? The solar power cord will likely be a 14/2 rather than separate wires with MC4 connectors, but, I'm open to going with two MC4 plugs if needed.

I am thinking something like the Marinco 115v power inlet I have mounted on the sidewall for shore power use. Thanks for any suggestions.

[halfdome, Danny]

I hook one of these Battery Tender pig tails to the batteries, works great with our solar panel.

Danny

[H.A.]

..:..

[troubleScottie]

There is a mc4 bulkhead connector:

PV Cable PV 32.0078P0001, Multi-Contact Bulkhead Female Connector/Male ( at goGreenSolar.com )

or

PV Cable PV 32.0078P0001, Multi-Contact Bulkhead Female Connector/Male ( http://www.zampsolar.com/product/roof-s ... olar-port/)

Or

Amphenol Helios H4 Connector Female, 66.1003

Depends on the exposure and power needs. The middle one has a cover but is relatively low power. The other two do not.

Alternatively use a generic cover, like RV electrical cable hatch white camper 3 1/2 to 4 inch inlet cover power 541-2-A And pull the cable though.

[Shadow Catcher]

What I did was make up a female and male plug with Anderson Power Poles that use my 10ga extension cords. Yes you do have to not plug it into 120 AC!

[tony.latham]

I use a Perko marine deck connection.



The screws that hold the wires in the connector are a bit tiny, but it seems to work just fine.

http://www.amazon.com/Perko-1190DP0CHR- ... GNPESB90ZV



Tony

[H.A.]

.....

[GuitarPhotog]

I looked at the Perko connectors but they aren't 100% reverse-polarity proof. You can make contact on both conductors if you insert the connector improperly. This issue caused me to simply hang a pigtail with two MC4 connectors out the bottom of the trailer. I also thought it would be easier to waterproof a 1/2" hole in the floor than a 1" hole in the side of my all aluminum trailer.

My $0.02 worth

<Chas>

[TimC]

Thanks all. Many more options than I had before.

I like the Battery Tender fused pigtail option the best. I have to look at wire gauge from my two 20w panels. Right now I think they are 16ga. The MC4s I bought seem to be for something around 10ga cable. I want to be wire-ready to upgrade to up to 80w total someday. That is something I need to get educated on; the wire ga for various wattages of 12v panels.

[tony.latham]

I looked at the Perko connectors but they aren't 100% reverse-polarity proof. You can make contact on both conductors if you insert the connector improperly. This issue caused me to simply hang a pigtail with two MC4 connectors out the bottom of the trailer. I also thought it would be easier to waterproof a 1/2" hole in the floor than a 1" hole in the side of my all aluminum trailer.

My $0.02 worth

<Chas>

The Perko I have can only be inserted one way. One pin is considerably larger than the other.

T

[tony.latham]

I use a Perko marine deck connection.

One thing to be aware of using this Perko and similar connectors, Its not an inlet.
The pins of that plug may be energised anytime the solar module is exposed to light.
Short circuiting solar modules generally wont hurt them (small capacity arrays only...).
But whatever the short circuit was created against might be harmed by arcing or heating.
As well any unintended sparking is generally a bad idea anyway.

Further that connector is not completely foolproof against making contact in reversed polarity.
be careful...

Edit, Voltage drop is a boogieman in low voltage systems. Especially so in charging low batteries during the best daylight hours.
But really depends on ones opinion of 'good enough'.
Anyway irks me knowing a portion my expensive solar power is getting lost in the wiring before it reaches my battery or lightbulb.
I suggest 12awg or perhaps larger for solar module extension cords.

H.A:

Good advice. I always hook up the extension first to the box, and then the panel which has a simple two-wire connector. Thus there's no way to short the sixty-watts out and no way to get a momentary reverse polarity.

Tony

[GuitarPhotog]

The Perko can fault because the small pin can go into the large hole, and if the frame is grounded and the large pin contacts that, you have a crossed connection at best or a short circuit at worst. Search the boating forums for opinions on the Perko. I thought it was a good idea at first but research caused me to decide differently. Your decision may be different from mine.

<Chas>

[dales133]

Most people here use anderson plugs.
10 amp to 50 amp.
50 amp are comon here for conecting everything from connection to the tug for charging to running accsories and extention cords.
Its the way ill probably go as i have a heap of the fittings and i want to keep as much standardised as possible
However that deck fitting does look nice

[MtnDon]

The Perko can fault because the small pin can go into the large hole, and if the frame is grounded and the large pin contacts that, you have a crossed connection at best or a short circuit at worst. Search the boating forums for opinions on the Perko. I thought it was a good idea at first but research caused me to decide differently. Your decision may be different from mine.

<Chas>

It's design does allow inadvertent contact even though the two halves will not slip together. Bad thing in some cases. The open design of the male end also permits a short circuit if that wire is coming from a source, such as a PV panel. Add to that the possibility that someone other than the original builder might someday be handling the connecting / disconnecting and you can see why some of us don't like those plugs and sockets.

[GuitarPhotog]

I would have used Anderson PowerPole connectors, but found a local supply for MC4s and decided to keep everything consistent through the system.

<Chas>