Routing wires into hatch...

[TimC]

How do you guys and gals route your tail-light and other wires through the hatch/hinge frame area? I have 3/4" access holes drilled through both the roof spars and hatch spars at the hinge. Just tail/brake and ground wires and a +/- set for galley lights. None bigger than 18awg. Wondering how well they will stand up to constant flexing and how to protect them in that area. Is that plastic corrugated wire loom http://www.cabletiesandmore.com/american/catalog/inside-diameter-split-wire-loom-black-roll-pla-188.php?gclid=CLqU-obyg8gCFYgCaQodXUIPvw stuff enough?

[GuitarPhotog]

The wires to my tail/stop lights on the hatch of my galley run unprotected out of a hole in the bulkhead and thence out to the lights. They have been there for all of the trailer's 65+ years, including almost 20,000 miles I've towed it with no wear, abrasion, short circuits, etc. You don't need to worry about the vibration and flexing. Just use what ever method is convenient and easiest to implement.

<Chas>

[dales133]

I stole noseoils idea and ran mine through a spring but my springs tiny as I only have a galley interior light mounted there

[TimC]

Not that I need to provide a photo as I think most of you know what I was getting at...

[dmdc411]

I clamped mine, clamps are about 12 inches apart, wires run parallel to the hinge.

[kayakdlk]

I didn't route through hinge. I used two grommet and a connector (So I can disconnect to remove hatch lid)) between a panel in galley and hatch lid.



Dan

[noseoil]

This was my solution. It's just a 3/8" O.D. tubing-bender spring from the hardware store, used to bend 3/8" copper tubing (the O.D. of the spring is actually about 1/2"). I drilled 9/16" holes so it can move freely & I'll "pin" one end in the hatch & let the other side float so it can move freely when the hatch opens & closes. I'm still going to tape up the wires where they run through the springs, to prevent any chafing & rubbing of the insulation, but it should work OK. If it doesn't, I'll post it in my build log & show another solution. The springs are very flexible & "soft" considering they're made from a tough, hardened steel. The amount of flex is actually very small.

I just never cared for the look of wires hanging out of the hatch and having that loop in the galley. This will look better, but it's a bit of a bother if I ever need to remove the hatch once it's installed for good. It can be done, but more trouble than a simple connector plug to break & just slide out the hatch if it needs work. The inner skin of my hatch will be removable in case I need to access things. As usual, everything's a compromise....