good deal on a power cord

[nikwax]

Harbor Freight 50 foot, 12 gauge, $32.99.I'm going to use my 15% off coupon on it.

[Miriam C.]

I just have one question. Is that going to be for your inlet power source and if so---hows it gonna fit????

[nikwax]

right after I replace the end

[madjack]

Nik, if you are gonna cut the end off, then I don't think it's quite the deal...I have seen 50'versions at both box stores, WalMart and Sams on sale for around 20-25 bucks...yellow, 12/3, with single ends....I bought a 100' one a couple of years ago at Sam's Club for 40 bucks...a quick look at HD's site shows this one and this one at Lowes....
madjack

[Podunkfla]

I have a couple of those cords... they are well made. WallyWorld also sells them about the same price. As for cutting off the end? Not necessary... Just use a "ground adapter" and plug it right on in. Or... make up a short little extention cord?


I'd hook up a ground lead with an alligator clip though?

[Miriam C.]

http://www.whitecapdirect.com/products/135123SJO

If you are planing on making your own ends you might try something like this. You can buy ends that are water resistant and water proof (?)

I would look around for an SJO if you are planning on spending that much money.

[Alphacarina]

Unless you have some serious loads (something more than just a window shaker) a 12 gauge cord is a bit of an overkill, IMO

No need to replace the end. Buy yourself a round male 120 volt 20 amp plug and epoxy it inside an appropriately sized PVC threaded pipe adapter and put that in the wall of your trailer - Instant 'shore power connection' for less than $10 and any regular extension cord end will fit it perfectly. Buy the threaded 'plug' so you can screw it in when you don't have any cord in the socket. Better yet, buy 2 and drill a hole in one the diameter of your cord and put that one on the shore power cord and you can screw it in when the cord is in the plug - It will both waterproof your connection and make it impossible to accidently disconnect your shore power cord

Don

[nikwax]

I decided to keep the HF cord for shop use, and bought a 50' 12/3 from my local hardware store for $34. I'd likely lose the waterproof qualities with an owner-installed socket.


Note that at 50 feet, wiring loses some carrying capacity and the ratings drop down a notch. A 50 foot 12 gauge is rated for 15 amps.

[Alphacarina]

True

A 50' 12 gauge is rated to carry 12 to 15 amps (1440 to 1800 watts) while a 50' 14 gauge is rated at 10 to 12 amps (1200 to 1440 watts)

Either one is all any teardrop should ever need and 95% of the time, a 25' cord would probably suffice, in which case the 12 gauge cord is really overkill

Don

[Micro469]

I didn't post the previous message...no idea how it got there

Was prolly my boo boo?

Sure don't make sense when you delete whatever he's talking about......

[nikwax]

True

A 50' 12 gauge is rated to carry 12 to 15 amps (1440 to 1800 watts) while a 50' 14 gauge is rated at 10 to 12 amps (1200 to 1440 watts)

Either one is all any teardrop should ever need and 95% of the time, a 25' cord would probably suffice, in which case the 12 gauge cord is really overkill

Don

I prefer to err on the side of caution. No real reason not to carry the heavier cord. A 1500 watt space heater, for example, would put quite a strain on. To each his own.

[Alphacarina]

True

A 50' 12 gauge is rated to carry 12 to 15 amps (1440 to 1800 watts) while a 50' 14 gauge is rated at 10 to 12 amps (1200 to 1440 watts)

Either one is all any teardrop should ever need and 95% of the time, a 25' cord would probably suffice, in which case the 12 gauge cord is really overkill

Don

I prefer to err on the side of caution. No real reason not to carry the heavier cord. A 1500 watt space heater, for example, would put quite a strain on. To each his own.

A resistive load (like a heater) is no big deal - If it is large enough to drop the voltage, then the heater draws less current (and therefore fewer watts) on the lower voltage . . . . no harm done

A motor (or compressor like an air conditioner has) is another matter entirely. If you have a 1500 watt motor which is designed for 120 volts and your cord drops 5 volts so that the motor is now running on 115 volts, then it draws MORE current and not less, because motors are 'constant wattage' loads. This is a bad situation because the windings in the motor were designed for the rated current which the unit draws on 120 volts, so running it on a lower voltage (which causes it to draw more current) can burn it up

This is why running a 1500 watt Skilsaw on a 100' 16 gauge cord leaves you needing a new Skilsaw after a short time . . . . while running your 1500 watt heater all night on the same cord doesn't pose a problem

Don