Is ventilation needed for a converter and/or battery?

[LMarsh]

Hi, I'm thinking about my electrical setup and I want to go with a converter and a battery. First I was thinking that the converter might get warm and need some sort of ventilation, like if I tuck it away in an enclosed compartment. I've never used one so I don't really know how warm they get or if they do or don't really need ventilation. Also along the same idea shouldn't I have some sort of ventilation for the battery as well? Even if it is a sealed battery I figured it might be a good idea.

Lucas

[toypusher]

It is always best to have the battery ventilated especially when charging it. I would put somekind of vent (actually two) and maybe even a small fan to move the air in the area with the converter. I don't have one, but can not imagine that they do NOT get pretty warm. Just my opinion mind you!

[MceeD]

Hi, I'm thinking about my electrical setup and I want to go with a converter and a battery. First I was thinking that the converter might get warm and need some sort of ventilation, like if I tuck it away in an enclosed compartment. I've never used one so I don't really know how warm they get or if they do or don't really need ventilation. Also along the same idea shouldn't I have some sort of ventilation for the battery as well? Even if it is a sealed battery I figured it might be a good idea.

Lucas

Even with a maintainence free battery I would ventilate it. I have had county inspectors make me put exhaust fans in garages that have charging galf carts, i.e. due to battery gasses. Even if they say they don't gass if something happens to the charger, etc... failure. I would what the gass to pass...

As for the charger/converter, it really has to do with what tempatures range their designed for. I would vent them with only the knowledge heat kills electronics. You could always use a computer fan that works off 12v and a thermostat.

[tinksdad]

I'm going to throw my two cents in here as well for what's it's worth...

Mainly due to the smaller size of Itty-Bitty, my original intention was just to carry the battery in the the TV, set it on the ground and hook it up with alligator clamps when I got to where I was going. Throw it on the charger when I got back home.

Plans changed!!!

I scored a battery tender at a yard sale for a dollar and three (3) free batteries. Now I had to come up with a plan. It's not complete; but I managed to figure out a way to get it included keeping everything in proportion to the tear. I have to hard wire an outlet into the box for 110 to power the charger and tie it into the 110V system, add a battery disconnect and make the connections to the 12V system on the tear; but this is where I'm at. I did see some soffit louvers at Lowe's this morning that I think I can cut into the side of the ammo can to provide ventilation and still remain relatively water resistant.

To the topic at hand, there is no doubt in my mind that I WILL ventilate the box. Now I just have to find someplace else for everything that was originally going to go in the box!!




Rain is back!!! Work stops for the time being!!

[wlooper89]

Lucas,

I am in the process of adding a cooling fan for the same reason. My converter has an automatic internal cooling fan that blows warm air into the electrical compartment if it needs to cool itself. That is usually only when there are a lot of DC lights on or heavy battery charging. But it does get warm. I have two 2" vents in the back of the compartment and plan to put a fan on one of them. That will blow warm air out and pull in cool air through the other vent. Also battery gas if any from the "sealed" battery. My electrical compartment is on the trailer tongue.

My new fan is only 50 mm, about 2", but it moves almost 20 cubic feet per minute. 12V and I am setting it up to run only when there is AC power to the converter. A thermostat mentioned earlier may also be good, but I do not want to use battery power for this fan if the converter is unpowered. A switch could also turn it off, but then one has to remember to do that. These are some of the parts I have assembled but not yet installed.

Paige is always ready to inspect trailer parts and help with photos. The relay coil is 120V AC and will turn on 12V DC to the fan. A toggle switch will turn off power to the relay coil if the fan is making too much noise for sleeping. So far I have only powered the fan to test it and it seems very quiet.

Bill

[LMarsh]

Bill, I've been thinking over similar stuff but don't want to get too complicated. Probably just plain vents or maybe with a fan that could run while the converter is hooked to shore power and during charging.

Another thing is I want to put the converter and battery someplace between the galley and interior space but would like to vent it outside. I'm not sure about those little vents because it seems like water could get in, especially if your driving in the rain. Doesn't air moving past an opening create a pocket of lower pressure, thus pulling in air and rain? Like the airfoil principle. I'm always very moisture paranoid when it comes to my tear. Maybe I should make a tongue box just for the electronics, it would make things a lot easier.

[wlooper89]

LMarsh,

I had the same concerns about water getting in. So far everything seems to stay dry. I have a piece of left-over carpet in the bottom of my tongue box and I have not noticed it getting wet. This is a photo of my tongue box and power inlet on the side.



I liked it because it matches the trailer chip guard and fits the tongue platform. There is approx. 1" space between the box and front of trailer and the vents open into that space. Their being on the back of the box seems to protect from water getting inside.

Bill