amperage regulation

[bravebluemice]

I'm looking for a circuit that will regulate the amperage flowing through a circuit, much like a resistor does, but instead of protecting the current sink, I want to protect the current source.

Here's my problem: I want to charge while towing, but I only have 300 watts available in the tow vehicle (It's an old Gold Wing), and if I draw too many amps, I'll burn up my stator.

I'm just afraid that if I discharge my deep cycle too far, it will burn up my stator when I start back out again. I'm pretty handy assembling circuits when I know what to look for, but I can't for the life of me figure out what this one would be called.

[Shadow Catcher]

You may be able to find a DC to DC regulator that will limit amperage as a side effect of limiting voltage. You do however what to make sure you have sufficient voltage to properly recharge the battery fully.

[Dale M.]

May want to talk to the techies at Signal Dynamics.. They do a lot of awesome lighting and other stuff for bikes, maybe they have an idea....

http://signaldynamics.com/

Dale

[Engineer Guy]

See if one of these items - especially those used for Battery Charger applications - will work for you. A Manufacturer's Application Engineer should be able to - and have a vested interest in - providing answers.

http://www.ametherm.com/inrush-current/megasurge-inrush-current-limiters.html

http://www.onlinefreeebooks.net/hobbies-ebooks/practical-electronics/practical-applications-of-current-limiting-diodes-pdf.html

So long as a Battery 'A -> B' switch is used and the Battery is put on the circuit before starting, the Gull Wing Alternator may self limit. I can't say for certain. Otherwise, Alternators connected to any very-discharged Battery would blow. Switching between Batteries while an Alternator runs is never advised. The transients/voltage excursions will cause havoc.

http://www.google.com/search?sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8&q=RV+Battery+switches#hl=en&expIds=17259,25566,25907,25941,26578,26614,26736,26751&sugexp=ldymls&xhr=t&q=RV+Battery+Switches&cp=12&pf=p&sclient=psy&source=hp&aq=f&aqi=&aql=&oq=RV+Battery+Switches&gs_rfai=&pbx=1&fp=8d9c50a61d5b9175

[bravebluemice]

The stator in these is the weakest link. You get 300 watts, and that's it.

The more load you put on it, the hotter it gets, until it cooks, and to replace it, I'd have to pull the motor and crack it in half. Not a job I want to do.

Thanks for pointing me in a direction. I'll be checking out those diodes first.

Cheers,
~BBM

[jss06]

Use a 1 Ohm 200 Watt resitor (about $30) in line with the trailer. At 1 Ohm you can not pull more then 12 AMPS or 144 Watts.

Just make sure there is plenty of air space around that resistor to disipate heat.