AC vs. DC and batteries

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AC vs. DC and batteries

Postby JGC403 » Wed Oct 13, 2010 10:38 pm

I'm trying to figure what is going to be better to have AC or DC appliances in the teardrop. If the campground has electricity it's probably best to have AC appliances. But If your camping where there are no hook ups, and your running off of a battery pack whats best?
The stuff that is going to need electricity in the teardrop would be LED lighting, radio, laptop, refrigerator, fan.

Also how many deep cycle batteries are people using with a similar setup? I'm also looking into solar panels to charge the batteries.


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Postby Miriam C. » Wed Oct 13, 2010 11:10 pm

I have both! Have a light that is DC and a plug. I also have Florescent but thinking of changing them. They attract a lot of insects. I rarely camp without AC anymore.. but it is nice to know I can.
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Postby dreadcptflint » Thu Oct 14, 2010 12:39 am

I am running straight DC. I have a solar panel and I usually camp off the grid. My battery is an old Sealed Deep cycle. (I made it through this year and maybe next).

What is the electrical draw on your refrigerator?
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Postby JGC403 » Thu Oct 14, 2010 12:49 am

dreadcptflint wrote:What is the electrical draw on your refrigerator?


Don't have one yet. I'm trying to figure out if its more efficient to have an AC frig and use a converter from the batteries or to just use a DC frig and not bother with a converter.
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Postby Shadow Catcher » Thu Oct 14, 2010 6:06 am

Using an Engel or Waeco/Dometic which can be powered by both AC or DC and both of which have a low power draw made sense to me. Unless you are using a true sine wave inverter, there is a 10 to 20% loss in motor efficiency with a modified square wave (what advertisers call a modified sine wave). This on top of the inherent loss in an inverter which can be 10 to what ever % and not including what it self consumes just being on.
Should you decide to use an inverter remember they are most efficient at about 75% of current draw, large inverters are less efficient with smaller draws.
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Postby Mightydog » Thu Oct 14, 2010 11:31 am

Like Miriam, we rarely camp without an AC hook-up any more. All of our lights and fan are DC and run off an Optima yellow top battery that seems to power them forever. We have a battery charger in the trailer so we can charge up when necessary. The only thing that runs on AC is the microwave oven and the heating pads that we use for aches and pains.

If we do camp without access to AC (like at a gathering), we heat up water bottles to warm the bed and heat coffee/tea water on the camp stove in the old, blue kettle.
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Postby madjack » Thu Oct 14, 2010 12:01 pm

...a dedicated DC fridge is a much better way to go...one thing you need to keep in mind is the 10fold increase in amperage draw when powering AC appliances with DC voltage...in other words, that 3A@120vac dorm fridge will draw 30A of dc power thru the inverter...that is massive amperage draw from a battery even before the inefficiencies of the inverter are counted in................
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Postby JGC403 » Fri Oct 15, 2010 1:25 am

madjack wrote:...a dedicated DC fridge is a much better way to go...one thing you need to keep in mind is the 10fold increase in amperage draw when powering AC appliances with DC voltage...in other words, that 3A@120vac dorm fridge will draw 30A of dc power thru the inverter...that is massive amperage draw from a battery even before the inefficiencies of the inverter are counted in................
madjack 8)


That's exactly what I wanted to know. So the most efficient way it looks like is to have as many stuff possible running on DC. When I am running off the battery pack there shouldn't be as large a demand on the batteries as there would be with an inverter to run AC stuff.
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Postby azmotoman » Fri Oct 15, 2010 2:17 am

DC ONLY here for lighting. Everything else is gas or ice. Our TD was locally built and came that way. We plan to keep an extension cord handy (already have the required adapter) to power a tiny space heater in the event we need it, however, our test run recently indicates there is sufficient insulation throughout. I'll be surprised if we ever need to use the heater at all (even though wifey is VERY cold blooded - I mean that in the temperate sense - not the temperament sense).

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Re: AC vs. DC and batteries

Postby myoung » Fri Oct 15, 2010 6:55 am

JGC403 wrote:I'm trying to figure what is going to be better to have AC or DC appliances in the teardrop. If the campground has electricity it's probably best to have AC appliances. But If your camping where there are no hook ups, and your running off of a battery pack whats best?
The stuff that is going to need electricity in the teardrop would be LED lighting, radio, laptop, refrigerator, fan.


In terms of the fridge, perhaps you should consider one that uses either propane or AC. Use DC for everything else.

That's the route that I am taking and will still install a few AC outlets for a small ceramic heater and for a 150-watt portable inverter for recharging my laptop battery. It's good to have JIC* outlet or two for both AC and DC.

* JIC is Just In Case.
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Postby madjack » Fri Oct 15, 2010 1:13 pm

JGC403 wrote:
madjack wrote:...a dedicated DC fridge is a much better way to go...one thing you need to keep in mind is the 10fold increase in amperage draw when powering AC appliances with DC voltage...in other words, that 3A@120vac dorm fridge will draw 30A of dc power thru the inverter...that is massive amperage draw from a battery even before the inefficiencies of the inverter are counted in................
madjack 8)


That's exactly what I wanted to know. So the most efficient way it looks like is to have as many stuff possible running on DC. When I am running off the battery pack there shouldn't be as large a demand on the batteries as there would be with an inverter to run AC stuff.


...that is true...mostly...once again, keep in mind, even if the appliance is 12vdc powered, if it is a heater of any kind, it will still draw 10+amps to run...that can be handled...to a degree...BUT, unless you go with large, multiple battery banks, you will only have around 50amp hours of usable electricity...use them wisely..........
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Postby 48Rob » Fri Oct 15, 2010 6:03 pm

BUT, unless you go with large, multiple battery banks, you will only have around 50amp hours of usable electricity...use them wisely..........
madjack


Never seen it put so short and sweet...or better! :thumbsup:

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Postby Shadow Catcher » Fri Oct 15, 2010 6:43 pm

myoung why not just go with a 12v adapter for your lap top i.e. http://www.powerstream.com/ADC.htm
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Postby myoung » Fri Oct 15, 2010 6:56 pm

Shadow Catcher wrote:myoung why not just go with a 12v adapter for your lap top i.e. http://www.powerstream.com/ADC.htm


My Apple MacBook Pro and many of the Apple laptops made over the past 4 or 5 years have what is called a MagSafe power connector that is not licensed to third-party vendors. The MagSafe connector is as its name implies a magnetic connector that disconnects with a slight tug so your laptop won't crash to the floor when someone trips on the cord.

That said, the MagSafe connector is the sole means of connecting to AC and recharging the battery. Since Apple does not make a 12v adapter and since third-parties are prohibited from infringing on Apple's technology, the choice for recharging when AC is unavailable is an inverter.

Actually, this is a good solution, because the inverter can also recharge my iPod Touch, my iPhone 4, and my iPad. All "i" all the time!!!

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