trailer side marker question

[LDK]

what is the best way to splice the side marker lights to the trailer wiring? I have a harbor freight trailer and I've never wired one before.

[doug hodder]

Any wiring that I won't have future access to, I usually solder and use heat shrink on it. If I do have access to it, Scotch-Loks are a much easier alternative when tying in on an existing harness and way easy to use. I also cover them with electrical tape. I'm sure others may disagree.

As a side note, on any lights up high on the sides, whether they are clearance or porch, and any other light, fan or accessory that I don't have access to the back of, I leave a loop of extra wire so that I can remove the item and have a longer pigtail if I need it for whatever reason in the future. Just an idea. Doug

[wannabefree]

I'm with Doug. There are tap in splices (the blue things that you squeeze over the wire and the lead from the light) but they are not reliable. I have never used one that didn't eventually fail.

[Dale M.]

Just identify the "tail/marker light" lead by electrical function or color and tap into it and extend it to clearance light locations... You may also want to extend ground wire also if you do not what to depend on ground through chassis or body...

Squeeze on tap connectors are "ok" but as other say it can be a reliability issue.... That being said they are used a lot on manufactured trailers even on electric trailer brake connections.... Be sure you have proper size for wire gauge you are working with...



One thing you can do is squeeze the connect full of "silicone dielectric" grease before placing them on wires and squeezing them on.... The dielectic grease will prevent moisture and air from getting into connection and causing corrosion...



Another thing you can do is put a plastic "zip tie" around the wire bundle about a inch from connector, this decreases mechanical strain on tap....

Dale

[LDK]

This pic shows the metal tab sticking out. Does this act as a ground against the trailer frame?

[LDK]

The front side with the cover off.




When I attached it to the frame, it kinda pinches the wire against the frame. The wire doesn't line up with the hole in the frame. I guess it's a harbor freight thing.

[ERV]

Hi, Yep the screw or bolt goes thru that and into the frame. You will have to drill a new hole for the red wire, or it will rub through and give you a short.

[bobhenry]

If you look close at your pics you will see the red (Hot) wire is trapped under the ground lug. I didn't like that , and took a 16 d nail and heated it red hot on the gas stove and made a different path for it from front to rear. I ran dedicated ground wires also so I simply slipped a ring type terminal under the ground lug and when the light is bolted on the added wire is grounded. This trick is kinda important on clearance lights attached to wood sides.

[bobhenry]

This pic shows the metal tab sticking out. Does this act as a ground against the trailer frame?

The hole in that metal tab should line up with the mounting hole get a small pair of pliers and give it a yank it will line up then when mounted the ground lug will touch the frame. You will probably want to grind or sand the contact spot on the frame bare. However , the self tapping mounting screw may make enough contact .

[Larry C]

I use the scotch lock ones in dales photo and use them like they are going out of style. I have NEVER had one fail. they work like a charm and no striping wire or any thing eles. just dikes to cut to length and a pair of plyers. electrical black tap over the top and then split loom tubbing and more electrical tape. I use plenty of electrical tape as a roll is way cheap like 50 some cents just burn thought it you can't use enough of it. No problems at all. I would use scotch lock connectors for everything if I could get a way with it. Slowcowboy. to 12 gauge wires are pretty hard to conect in them unless you get the bigger connectors but can be made to work. a 14 ot 16 gauge and a 12 work just fine.

I guess it depends where you live. If you are from an area that uses road salt such as the North East Rust Belt, you want to avoid those Scotch lock connectors like the plague. I have had nothing but trouble with them for years. I can't even use them under the dash, as they always corrode. I have a drawer full of them that came with parts I have bought in the past. I only solder and use heat shrink, the type with the sealant inside. You can actually immerse this joint under water.

[Dale M.]

A another option to consider is to add ground wire to tab and run circuit at two wires (12 volts [lamp power] and ground) to main wires supplying all lamps on trailer... Some times the "tab under the plastic" does not contact trailer frame/shell(metal) very well and will cause poor ground. If trailer shell is wood or fiberglass or not grounded, it is non conductive and will not ground lamp holder...

Dale

[Dale M.]

I use the scotch lock ones in dales photo and use them like they are going out of style. I have NEVER had one fail. they work like a charm and no striping wire or any thing eles. just dikes to cut to length and a pair of plyers. electrical black tap over the top and then split loom tubbing and more electrical tape. I use plenty of electrical tape as a roll is way cheap like 50 some cents just burn thought it you can't use enough of it. No problems at all. I would use scotch lock connectors for everything if I could get a way with it. Slowcowboy. to 12 gauge wires are pretty hard to conect in them unless you get the bigger connectors but can be made to work. a 14 ot 16 gauge and a 12 work just fine.

I guess it depends where you live. If you are from an area that uses road salt such as the North East Rust Belt, you want to avoid those Scotch lock connectors like the plague. I have had nothing but trouble with them for years. I can't even use them under the dash, as they always corrode. I have a drawer full of them that came with parts I have bought in the past. I only solder and use heat shrink, the type with the sealant inside. You can actually immerse this joint under water.

Dielectric grease.....

Dale

[Dale M.]

This pic shows the metal tab sticking out. Does this act as a ground against the trailer frame?

The hole in that metal tab should line up with the mounting hole get a small pair of pliers and give it a yank it will line up then when mounted the ground lug will touch the frame. You will probably want to grind or sand the contact spot on the frame bare. However , the self tapping mounting screw may make enough contact .

Yah... Clean surface to bare metal (where tab contacts) and apply a little dielectric grease to prevent corrosion and you should be good....

Dale

[Senior Ninja]

Next time you're in HF check out the packages of plastic covering for your wiring. I used it on my HF trailer to protect it. It is easy to get to the wires and tap in where ever you'd like. The splices can be slid in to the sheath to protect them.
Steve