Fan Power

[J.Heyboer]

Hey Guys,

I have not done a lot of wiring so I am going to keep it relatively simple in my camper. I am planning on having incoming AC from shore power to run my refrigerator and ac unit. I would also like to power my interior lights(12VDC) and my fantastic fan (12VDC) from shore power.

Those of you that power your fans off shore power, what power supply have you used or would recommend.

Thanks,

John

[TPMcGinty]

I have one of these:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/RV-trailer-American-2000-POWER-CONVERTER-12-volt-NEW-/350435626904?pt=Motors_RV_Trailer_Camper_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5197974f98

It's not very expensive, works great, and it makes it easy to wire the AC and DC sides.

[madjack]

I use one of these... http://www.batterymart.com/p-battery-te ... arger.html ...over a 12v battery...works for me....................
madjack

[eamarquardt]

I vote with Madjack. Install a reasonable capacity battery (say 100 amp hour) with a small charger (5 amps is plenty). Strive to keep your draw on the battery light. When you need a little extra juice the battery will provide it and your charger will put the juice back in over time. Over 24 hours a 5 amp charger can pump 120 amp hours into your battery which is plenty for "normal" use with things designed for 12 volts (computer, a few lights, a small radio, phone charger, small efficient fan, etc).

Running household appliances off an inverter is "optomistic" and to be successful you have to know your 12 volt draw, the amount of time you'll be using your appliance, have sufficient battery power to do so, AND a means to recharge your battery.

Best to KISS, keep the load light, and be efficient and cost effective. Crusing sailors get by with very little battery power.

Cheers,

Gus

[Toytaco2]

I also agree with MJ. I use a CTEK 7000 battery charger and smaller deep cycle battery to power my Fantastic Fan and lighting. This charger also has a "Supply Mode" which will allow it to power the fan and lights (I think up to 7 amps continuously) with the battery entirely removed, or it can also charge the battery and power the electrics simultaneously. Here's a link: http://www.ctek.com/EN-GB/consumer/mxs-7000.aspx. If I were building again, I'd definitely do this part exactly the same way. The charger doesn't seem to produce a lot of heat either. And, I like the smaller size and lower cost of the smaller sized batteries.

Good Luck,

Mike

[Shadow Catcher]

My take is a bit different. What you plan on doing now may not be what you do in the future, I think you can count on it. That, what you do in the future, may include boondocking, camping in areas with out power which will involve a substantial battery and a way to charge it, from the tow vehicle, solar or generator. You also need to think in terms of loads, how to minimize them i.e. use LED lights, use computer case fans instead of the Fantastic fan...

[eamarquardt]

My take is a bit different. What you plan on doing now may not be what you do in the future, I think you can count on it. That, what you do in the future, may include boondocking, camping in areas with out power which will involve a substantial battery and a way to charge it, from the tow vehicle, solar or generator. You also need to think in terms of loads, how to minimize them i.e. use LED lights, use computer case fans instead of the Fantastic fan...

Not that much different! You, as others have, espouse keeping the load light, using a battery of sufficient size, and factoring into the equation the method of recharging the battery. Based on 10 years of camping/living on a boat, away from the dock/shore power, a short run time on the engine each day and a 100 amp hour marine battery, were sufficient for our needs. We used natural ventialtion (easy when anchored in 30 plus knots of wind), few lights, a small transistor radio versus a Giggawatt car stereo, etc. to keep the load light. Instead of a fan that draws power use a wind scoop like those used on boats. No moving parts, no noise, and no power required: http://airduck.org/id4.html or http://www.freewebs.com/3sidedwindscoop/ or http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?pat ... 1&id=48974

Cheers,

Gus

[J.Heyboer]

Thanks for the feedback guys.

I had not been planning on using battery power but now I'm reconsidering. I am leaning towards the unit madjack suggested.

John

[Miriam C.]

Radio Shack and a few other places sell a 12v power supply if you are just looking to not have a battery. Problem is if you loose electricity you loose power. No lights or puter or ability to charge a cell phone....

[bdosborn]

I vote for the Progressive Dynamics battery charger.



PD9130 Clicky

Its an intelligent, four stage charger (which is the best kind ) and it has enough power to charge your battery to 90% in 3-4 hours when in absorption mode. It used to be that advise was to slowly recharge batteries to maximize battery life, now opinions are swinging to a charge rate of C/8 (20-hour rate divided by 8 ) for max life. It also will serve as a power supply and happily supply oodles of amps to power all your accessories as well as keep your battery charged. I've seen mine supply 20 amps to run our lights, fridge, furnace, DVD, etc.

On the net, discussions about battery chargers tend to get a bit obtuse " I like the superconductor battery charger designed by aliens from from the future that traveled back in time and presented it as a gift to the ancient Mayans and any another kind sucks..."

All of the chargers posted are good ones, you can't go wrong with any of them. YMMV though, battery life is pretty complicated.

Battery FAQ Linky


Bruce

[dh]

You asked what we use, so here's my solution. A WFCO type power center. Mine is actually an elixer, picked it up used for cheap. for my needs, it works well. It has an AC & DC breaker/fuse pannle built into it. All 12v and 120V circuits are wired to it as well as shore power and the battery. Everything on the 12V side is automatic including charging the battery or running 12V from 120V when available. Probably overkill for what you want to do, but an option.