MM #7 Electrical problems

[Shadow Catcher]

It gets worser and worser.
I knew I had problems yesterday as I plugged it in to charge the battery and it never came down from the 14.4 V boost at the battery (progressive Dynamics converter) until I used the disconnect switch to the battery at which point it dropped the voltage (minus battery) to 13.4V.

The electrical from the seven prong plug back to the converter is a complete unadulterated mess. I ripped it all out today!!!

I think I may have found the problem, the DC and AC side of the converter were grounded to the chassis, a big no no (big copper lugs screwed onto the aluminum chassis).
I have to run in to Toledo tomorrow to pick up more wire 6ga for the converter to the battery and two 8 ga lines for the two separate solar controllers.

[eamarquardt]

"Trust but verify"!

Cheers,

Gus

[Dale M.]

Also remember when testing with LED lamps and multi meter.... Leads on meter one way way will show short, flip leads and it will show open.... Keep in mind that LEDS are electrically (when trouble shooting) a simple diode...

Dale

[Dale M.]

I think I may have found the problem, the DC and AC side of the converter were grounded to the chassis, a big no no (big copper lugs screwed onto the aluminum chassis).

Are you talking about inverter "neutral" wire (white) or the 3rd wire (green) safety ground...

Any way it may be, it should not have effect in tail lamp circuit....

Dale

[Shadow Catcher]

Thanks Gus and Dale. the wiring from the converter out appears to be correct (subject to change with out notice), and none of the 12V circus (purposeful miss spelling) appear to be "grounded" to the frame. I should have it back together, more or less in the next couple of hours baring unforseens (like that is going to happen). I am however making progress, I think.

[bdosborn]

I knew I had problems yesterday as I plugged it in to charge the battery and it never came down from the 14.4 V boost at the battery (progressive Dynamics converter) until I used the disconnect switch to the battery at which point it dropped the voltage (minus battery) to 13.4V.

What's the problem? 14.4V is the bulk charge voltage for my PD and 13.3V is the maintenance voltage. How long was it at 14.4V? Mine will stay there for hours if the batteries are fairly discharged.



Also, there's nothing wrong with grounding AC (green wire only) and DC to the frame, in fact the NEC requires it.

Bruce

[Shadow Catcher]

The battery was already at full charge when plugged in and it was 14.4V for over 4 hours with the AGM starting to out gas.
It was not the green wire that was grounded it was one of the hot legs (AC white) so the whole frame was hot.
I did not finish the wiring today. Amazing how long making connections and trying to stuff 8 wires into the blue convoluted conduit and get it all to the appropriate places while dodging thunderstorms takes.

[bdosborn]

The battery was already at full charge when plugged in and it was 14.4V for over 4 hours with the AGM starting to out gas.
It was not the green wire that was grounded it was one of the hot legs (AC white) so the whole frame was hot.

Okay, that's a problem. The PD has a 2 year warranty, you might be able to get PD to fix it if its broken.

The neutral on the frame is a pretty sneaky problem, how did you find it?
Bruce

[Shadow Catcher]

A big ugly copper lug and 12 ga single conductor wire up through the floor, actually two of them. I must say I lost my cooth and there was a bit of off color language, ok more than a bit!

[Dale M.]

Technically in real world the "white" wire is a "neutral" and should be at same potential as green wire ground.... You will find in most wiring installations (120 -240 volt single phase) they are tied common (usually to driven ground rod)...

How its done with inverters I'm not sure....

Dale

[Shadow Catcher]

What you do in the house (Wired in a new master panel in our house a year ago) vs a trailer and to have one leg of a 120 AC circuit and one leg of a 12V DC circuit wired together.

[dh]

... I should have it back together, more or less in the next couple of hours baring unforseens (like that is going to happen). I am however making progress, I think.

So you put your tools down in the middle of a job to post on a web forum???

[Shadow Catcher]

I have found on a number of occasions that it is best to walk away and let things settle. I have for example been trying to troubleshoot the trailer running lights and it hit me I have the positive and negative in my little seven pole junction box all I need to do is use jumper wires and viola everything is wired correctly. Now I have to check and see if there is a problem in the TV end of things and I am about to go and buy a seven prong/blade tester.

[Dale M.]

Some times this can be your best friend while doing lamp testing....



I actually have 4 meters either digital or VOLT-OHM ranging from $50 to $350 dollars, and I fall back to this most of time for a lot of automotive testing (non computer circuits) where its a on/off situation like lighting...

It costs $3-5 and is not a very expensive compared dedicated tester you will probably only use once....

Dale