Running wires

[Lou Park]

Ok, I'm walking up and down the isles at the big box store looking at different ways to run wires. Conduit is still number one with me but to drill through the structure of a tear takes away quite a percentage of material. BX does the same but isn't moister proof. Plastic conduit is moister proof but also takes away material. Romex could work but I don't see where anyone has recommended it which brings me to this. What is the difference between running Romex or just using a good 12-3 extension cord and cutting it to length? Its waterproof, flexable, double insulated, and can use a much smaller hole in the structure. Any thoughts?
Lou

[Sonetpro]

That is what I did. I bought a extension cord and cut it up in pieces for any wires that needed to be underneath the trailer. For the interior lighting circuits I ran them without any conduit, Making sure that there were no splices in a run. You really don't need conduit. There aren't any cars or boats that use it for 12V. For 110 I used Romex.

[Sam I am]

I used 12 gauge copper stranded wire for 12 volts DC. I heard that stranded wire was more vibration resistant than solid wire, so I used the same wire for my 110 volt receptacle wiring, rather than "house" wire. It has worked well so far.

[cablerunners]

Hi,

Sounds like a good idea to use stranded core wire (wish I had now), I used romex (I don't see it being an issue though).

-phil

[AFoxworthy]

You could use UF. It is tougher than romex and SO cord (extension cord), but the same size. It's made to be directly buried in the ground. I used it to wire a customers 120V receptacles on his Cabin Cruiser (Boat). Downside, it is a pain to strip. Low volt (12V) can just be 2 individual conductors of THHN.

[bobhenry]

I used 3 wire 12 gauge ( Heavy duty ) orange extention cord for my ac. This gives you a dedicated ground back to your GFI and shore power. I used 2 wire black 14 gauge electrical wire for my 12 volt. I ran the wiring without conduit. I was cheap and used wire I had around the house rather than buying new stranded wire and this prover to be a big mistake. A portion of my 12 volt wire was bad. It looked good on the outside casing but the inside insulation was brittle and had deteriorated. A 12 volt short lead to some fried wires during a test hook up. I now have wire I fed thru very small holes thru the 1x4 frame that must be replaced. This will prove to be difficult to impossible to drag in new wires. I wish I had ran pvc (3/8 or 1/2) to each box making it easier to feed the new wire I will need to run this spring.

[justme256]

I purchased Steve Fredericks Shop Manual.

With his sandwich construction techniques using a conduit in the walls becomes important since the walls are completely fabricated inside and out before any wiring is run. When the walls and ceiling are installed running the wire becomes easy with the conduit in place! Wiring is routed above the headliner, across along the spars and down through the conduit and then the outside roof skin is put in place. Also a good idea to put conduit into the rear bulkhead.

[ssrjim]

I go with the simpler is better method.

[Miriam C.]

I used Romex for the 120vac and 12gage for the 12v. Using 10 for the battery to the fuse box on the 12v.

Biggest thing is to remember where your wires are. You don't want to drill holes in them and it is easy to get in a hurry and forget. You really don't need conduit unless you are running your 120 vac under the trailer or you are pre-finishing like Steve F. and doing a lot of through the wall lighting.

[Mary K]

ROMEX is a PITA!!! Its stiff and hard to manipulate is tight spaces.

The extension Cord is a great Idea for 120vac. I used single stranded 12awg because it was FREE!!

I also used Shielded, Twisted pair 18awg for the 12volt (except I used 10awg from the battery to the fuse block) because it was free too.


No conduits for the 12. I Ran most of it under the insulation.


Trailer wiring and Battery wiring coming from Battery Box up through floor. I used some flexible wire conduit.



Mk

[Dark Horse]

Can I ask why solid core wire use is prevalent here?

I've always been told if the wires going to be pulled once and never move again use solid I.E. NMB (romex brand)
if its gonna move, Cars,Boats, bikes... Stranded.
Due to the nature of stranded being able to deal with Vibration and flexing better than solid will.

Thank you,

Jim

[Sonetpro]

Can I ask why solid core wire use is prevalent here?

I've always been told if the wires going to be pulled once and never move again use solid I.E. NMB (romex brand)
if its gonna move, Cars,Boats, bikes... Stranded.
Due to the nature of stranded being able to deal with Vibration and flexing better than solid will.

Thank you,

Jim

I used Romex from the shore power to the converter and from the breakers to the 110 outlets. The walls of my tear don't flex any more than the walls of my house.

[Nitetimes]

I used Romex from the shore power to the converter and from the breakers to the 110 outlets. The walls of my tear don't flex any more than the walls of my house.

Exactly!! I've got a 33' trvl trlr out back I gutted and it was full of romex. More flex in it than you'll get in a TD and it didn't seem to be bothered by it.

[Miriam C.]

Can I ask why solid core wire use is prevalent here?

I've always been told if the wires going to be pulled once and never move again use solid I.E. NMB (romex brand)
if its gonna move, Cars,Boats, bikes... Stranded.
Due to the nature of stranded being able to deal with Vibration and flexing better than solid will.

Thank you,

Jim

I used Romex from the shore power to the converter and from the breakers to the 110 outlets. The walls of my tear don't flex any more than the walls of my house.

And it is easier to use stab in fixtures. All my wire is on the bulkhead/galley wall and if it gives me issues I will pull it and replace it. Truth is if you like stranded better you should use it.

[Lou Park]

Is there any difference in the wires between using them for
110 volt or 12 volt systems?
Lou