Super Simple Electrical System

[PKCSPT]

Thank you Verna, yes it is the birch with grey carpet sides. I guess next paycheck, I will pick one up and the circle drill bit and give it a try. It sounds easy enough to do and really don't have to worry too much about compromising any strength in the side wall.

[KCStudly]

One way to help prevent chip out when using a hole saw is to start the pilot drill thru, then start the hole saw on the back side just to score the material, then finish the hole from the front.

Good luck!

[MtnDeb]

I need to replace the wiring on my HF trailer. What gauge wire should I use? I keeping their lights.

Thanks .....

[andreuther]

Thanks for this post, I used this technique for my build and couldn't be happier.

[bobhenry]

I need to replace the wiring on my HF trailer. What gauge wire should I use? I keeping their lights.

Thanks .....

I would suggest 12 gage stranded 14 would do but I tend to go worst case. I used a couple sections of 12 gage extention cord I had laying around.

[Tiki TD]

My background is designing, building, and operating cell sites. Everything in them is DC and charged by AC (and in my case solar). I’m building my TD the same way.
The GFI is dual outlet for the charger and the frig.
The cabin AC is a dual outlet inside.
The galley AC is a dual outlet outside.
The frig is AC or DC depending on where I will be camping. The AC and the DC outlet (separate) will be in the space reserved for the frig.
Some of the parts might be overkill (inverter), but I am using what I have on hand rather than purchase new.
All fuse sizes will be determined once the item is purchased.
The symbols used on the schematic are probably not code, but it was what I had to work with and is labeled to keep confusion to a minimum.

[RDD]

what a great and simple solution - thanks for sharing

[bdosborn]

All fuse sizes will be determined once the item is purchased.

Here's a diagram showing fuses and wire sizes (you can replace the circuit breakers with fuses on the DC side):





Thread Linky

But this pretty far off topic as this is a super simple electrical system thread.

Bruce

[backstrap bandit]

All I did was run 110 from out door plug to receptical plug in converter run converter 12 volt lines to fuse box and split that to lights and such using fuses I also run wire from battery on tounge to fuse panel now I can use 110 outlets on shore power and 12 volt at same time but if I disconnect from shore power then I have 12 volt only but while running shore power I'm also charging battery

[MtnDon]

[quote="Tiki TD"..........................
All fuse sizes will be determined once the item is purchased......................


[/quote]


I had not looked at this topic before. I wonder how Tiki TD has made out with this?

There seems to be an issue with the schematic he posted.

The inverter DC side connection is incorrect. The inverter DC side connections is always made to the battery, preferably with a fuse in the positive line as close to the battery as safely possible. The DC side of the inverter should not have any connections directly to the solar controller. Never. I hope nobody has taken this schematic as the way to wire that portion of their system.

Some solar charge controllers do indeed have terminals labeled for "load". That is not meant for large amperage loads such as an inverter. They are simply meant for use with low amperage devices like lights.


The comment about fuse sizes deserves comment too, as fuses are designed to protect the wiring, not the connected devices. Fuses are sized by the rated allowable amperage for the wire gauge. A possible exception to that would be the fuse for an inverter. Since we often over size the DC wires from battery to inverter to allow for minimal voltage drop that fuse can be sized to the maximum current draw of the inverter, as long as that amperage is smaller than what the wire is rated for.

I hope that explanation is clear; make sense.

Bruce's diagram has it right; at the top he rates the fuses by wire gauge.

[Tiki TD]

You are correct regarding the inverter connection. glad you caught that. it is always a good idea to have a second set of eyes on this.
Depending on the solar controller, I will possibly not use the load side of the controller and connect the load to the battery through a circuit breaker and switch (disconnect).
Fuse size does go along with wiring size, which goes along with the unit you are connecting it to. Both wires and fuse will be sized for the unit it will be connected to.

Thanks for looking it over.

[mrwall1]

I think I made a simple Electrical System...
I Ran the shore power plug into the Tongue Box, and ran it straight to an outlet inside the Tongue Box, then I Bought a GFI plug and plugged it into the Outlet.. Then I bought a 15amp 4 plug Box and plugged that into the outlet.. then on the other side I put a 750 watt inverter. and when I am off grid I can hook it up to the Battery, and plug the 15amp 4 plug box into the inverter....

[caseydog]

Wow, I started this thread six years ago, and it is still a sticky.

I have not read all 72 posts -- I'm somewhat lazy.

I'll try to go back and read them, but I'm not sure I can really add anything.

Hopefully, forum members have found ways to improve on my design, while keeping the "super simple" mission intact.

CD

[Bob Hammond]

Well, having read through the posts, i've come up with this setup. i don't need much in the way of power or receptacles - maybe 10-15A and duplex receptacles in the back and in the cabin. So I bought a black power port from West Marine ($14), and i was planning to use the windup reel in the picture. But then in my garage I ran across this Harbor Freight retracting reel that I never hung up. It might be a good and jazzy setup, if I'm satisfied that the strain relief on the replacement plug is sturdy enough. i can put the retractor inside the bulkhead of the kitchen.

[SSTear]

AC DC Install with 12 v cut off switch , converter, charger, and Deep Cycle 12v Batt.