External wiring... what to do with neutrals?

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External wiring... what to do with neutrals?

Postby greasywheats » Sun Mar 04, 2007 4:55 pm

quick question for ya'll-
I'm wiring my external stuff:
4 running/marker lights,
turn signals with tail lights,
license plate light,
and electric trailer brakes

I have a 7-pin connector. Do I have to use a ground to frame for all the neutrals, or can I run all the neutrals to a neutral Bus bar. And then run a single neutral back to the ground wire on the 7-pin connector?

Haven't given this much thought, so it might show.
Thanks!
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Postby madjack » Sun Mar 04, 2007 5:19 pm

...the number 1 problem with running lights is bad grounds...I am not a fan of running frame ground so I say run 'em all to the bus bar and back to the connector.....
madjack 8)
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Postby Steve_Cox » Sun Mar 04, 2007 5:30 pm

Smart money is on the dedicated neutral wire, and not the frame grounding as a sole source for the neutral. I like your bus bar idea. :thumbsup:
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A Guide to Maintaining Trailer Lights and Wiring

Postby sdtripper2 » Sun Mar 04, 2007 5:55 pm

A Guide to Maintaining Trailer Lights and Wiring.
http://www.geocities.com/Yosemite/2358/ ... s/a08.html
Search on the word "ground" in your browser to
narrow down your point of interest on the above link :


Jack has mentioned that lighting problems with trailers is mostly caused by
grounding issues.

It is recommended to use a ground return wire instead of the metal
frame of the trailer to ensure a electrical continuity back to the car battery.


Grounding issues and trailer lighting:

Key point for best results try not to ground to the trailer frame.


Still want to ground to the frameImage
If you use the trailer frame for a ground return path then you must ensure
that the ground connection is bullet proof.
Drill a 1/4" hole through the
frame to install a bolt. Grind some paint away from around the hole using
a hand grinder. I can't emphasize how important it is to clean the metal
whistle clean. Then install a closed loop ground lug with the bolt going
through it, using a star washer with lots of pointy teeth on it. Coat the
assembly with a liberal amount of dielectric (nonconductive & waterproof)
grease. Tighten the assembly.

NOTE: The electric brake wires should have an independent ground wire
for total reliability. If you want this same reliability for your lights, install
ground return wires for them as well. It is OK to bundle the ground wire
together at the front of the trailer, on a terminal strip or similar, to connect
to the single wire that goes to the trailer connector.
"A man who is good enough to shed his blood for his country
is good enough to be given a square deal afterwards." -------Theodore Roosevelt

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Postby Dale M. » Mon Mar 05, 2007 12:12 am

I find with a properly crimped connector, a cleaned ground connection (bare silver metal) and a little application of silicone dielectric grease and a good tight screw... The average frame ground quite adequate....

Also run bonding ground through 7 pin connector to frame...

I also use silicone dielectric grease in my crimp connectors to prevent corrosion...

Though there is absolutely nothing wrong in running all grounds to common ground point....

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Postby greasywheats » Mon Mar 05, 2007 11:30 am

Thanks for the replies guys!
I'm just glad that no fights broke out when I mentioned the word "ground"! I remember browsing a couple previous posts where things got a bit heated. Seems that electric issues really get people charged up! :lol: :R
:applause:
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Postby Dale M. » Mon Mar 05, 2007 1:52 pm

Most anything will work when doing electical work and long as one uses quality products and workmanship...

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