Does this wiring plan look correct?

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Does this wiring plan look correct?

Postby Looneytoons » Sat Oct 31, 2009 12:18 am

I did a lot of studying in this section and here is my wiring plan. I apologize as it's hand written. I do not have a program or the expertise to do it any other way. The basis for the plan comes from the diagram in the "My Wiring Plan" sticky

The battery and the charger will go in a tongue box. The fuse box will be in the galley. I intend to use this fuse box http://www.blueheronmarine.com/Detail.bok?no=6105 . It has a 100 amp overall maximum.

Here is the plan.

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Circuit one draws a maximum of 4.57 amps
Circuit two draws a maximum of 2.17 Amps
Circuit three draws a maximum of 5 Amps
Circuit four draws a maximum of 5 Amps
Circuits five and six are 12 volt outlets that would have a variable draw.

Once again I apologize for the handwriting. I was the only person in my 5th grade writing class that did not get a certificate. It still haunts me 45 years later.

Thoughts anyone? On the wiring plan, not my handwriting!
Dave

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Postby Ageless » Sat Oct 31, 2009 12:24 am

Each feature (lamp, fan, etc) should run to ground and not return to fuseblock Using anything more than 14 gage to run 12V is overkill. 8 or 10 gage fron battery to fuseblock is correct
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Postby Dale M. » Sat Oct 31, 2009 9:49 am

Ageless:

The fact the fuse block has A GROUND PAD (terminals) just so you can run the return ground back to battery is OK and probably make it even more viable...... Most marine fuse blocks do have ground return because most boats are fiberglass or wood and block is design for marine use... Generally one does not use hull on metal boat as ground because of electrolysis so most boat wiring returns back to "fuse block" ground bar.....

Looneytoons:

Your wiring draw looks absolutely fine..... Only discrepancy is it "appears" the you have first two rows (on left) of lamps and outlets wired in series, just be sure you wire them in "parallel" ...

Wire gauges are ok but when in doubt, always go bigger gauge wire...


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Postby ajricher » Sat Oct 31, 2009 4:29 pm

Hi!

Looks good, and not unlike what I have in my TTT.

Were I you, though, i would add one more switch - in the hot lead from the charger to the battery. THis way youy can completely isolate the battery when not in use, so no charge loss back though the charger's diodes.

ALan
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Postby Looneytoons » Sun Nov 01, 2009 12:48 am

Thanks for the help.

I did plan on parallel circuits. I guess I oversimplified my drawing.
Dave

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Postby wlooper89 » Sun Nov 01, 2009 12:00 pm

Looks good to me too. I also grounded 12V to the trailer frame at one point and back to the fuse block for each circuit. Some of my running lights are hooked up with ground only to the trailer frame. They would be difficult to get to now so I have left them that way. But I believe the wiring direct to the fuse block may be more reliable for the trailer circuits.

My battery was already grounded by the tow vehicle-to-trailer charge circuit through the running light wiring, so I thought it could be an improvement to go ahead and connect the battery 12V negative to the frame with a good connection, 10 gage wire in my case.

ajricher wrote:Were I you, though, i would add one more switch - in the hot lead from the charger to the battery...


I did the same with my charger. A DC toggle switch in the charger output wire provides a way to isolate the battery.

Bill
Last edited by wlooper89 on Sun Nov 01, 2009 10:22 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby Ageless » Sun Nov 01, 2009 12:11 pm

If you don't have a charging circuit from the TV; no need to ground battery to frame
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Re: Does this wiring plan look correct?

Postby bdosborn » Mon Nov 02, 2009 11:12 pm

Looneytoons wrote:Here is the plan.

Thoughts anyone? On the wiring plan, not my handwriting!


Can't find a thing wrong with it (other than the series versus parallel bit that Dale mentioned but my guess is you just drew it that way). I like how you've separated loads so that one blown fuse doesn't leave you in the dark. You've also left plenty of capacity on each circuit so voltage drop and possible future loads won't be a problem. I especially like how you've sized your fuses to protect the wire correctly. And finally, you've grounded the battery to the frame. It's a safety requirement for all commercial trailers and it's often overlooked on home-built trailers.

Well done!

:applause:

Bruce
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Postby Looneytoons » Tue Nov 03, 2009 12:46 am

Thanks for taking a look at this.

I knew very little about 12 volt wiring before I started reading this section. If I got it right, it's because you guys did such a good job of explaining things in the various threads.

Thanks again.
Dave

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