Battery Separator - Sure Power 1314

[bdosborn]

I was poking around on the web and found this battery separator:

Sure Power 1314



From their web site:

SIMPLE INSTALLATION: Connects to primary battery, auxiliary battery and ground. Absolutely no system modifications are necessary.

MULTIPLE BATTERY CHARGING: The battery separator allows multiple batteries to be charged from one charging source (usually, but not necessarily, an alternator). When the batteries are not being charged, the Battery Separator separates or isolates the batteries.

PRIORITIZED CHARGING: The Battery Separator waits until the battery connected to the active charging source reaches approximately 13.2 Volts before paralleling and charging the remaining batteries. The system disconnects at approximately 12.8 Volts.

I've been unplugging the trailer when I stop so the truck battery doesn't try and charge the trailer battery and vice-versa. But, I'm getting old and sometimes I forget to plug it back in. Then the trailer lights don't work. This doodad will disconnect the batteries when it sees 12.8V (truck not running) and reconnects when it sees a voltage of 13.2V or higher (truck running). Its a uni-directional device meaning the solar panel will charge the trailer battery but not the truck battery when the truck is not running (which is what I want).

I've ordered one and I'll follow up with a review after I install it. Anyone else every try one of these? I like the idea of avoiding the 0.7 voltage drop of diode based separators. It does draw about an amp to hold the solenoid closed but that shouldn't matter since it only draws current when the truck is running.

Bruce

[Shadow Catcher]

Looks interesting, note it needs to be in other than in the engine compartment.
http://www.surepower.com/pdf/180126A.pdf

[eamarquardt]

It seems to me that a relay or solenoid conected to the ignition would do the same thing. When the ignition is on the aux battery would be connected, when the ingition is off, disconnected. A relay wouldn't isolate two house batteries from each other but you could use a relay for each house battery that would solve this issue. I think you'd also want an a/b/both switch if you have two house batteries. Most boats are set up this way.

Cheers,

Gus

[chorizon]

It seems to me that a relay or solenoid conected to the ignition would do the same thing. When the ignition is on the aux battery would be connected, when the ingition is off, disconnected. A relay wouldn't isolate two house batteries from each other but you could use a relay for each house battery that would solve this issue. I think you'd also want an a/b/both switch if you have two house batteries. Most boats are set up this way.

Cheers,

Gus

Kinda what I was thinking. The ubiquitous "Ford starter-solenoid" comes to mind as the perfect component, and they are less than 10$, I believe.



Available at any auto-parts store, provided they know what your talking about and don't ask "for what vehicle its going on."

[bdosborn]

It seems to me that a relay or solenoid conected to the ignition would do the same thing. When the ignition is on the aux battery would be connected, when the ingition is off, disconnected. A relay wouldn't isolate two house batteries from each other but you could use a relay for each house battery that would solve this issue. I think you'd also want an a/b/both switch if you have two house batteries. Most boats are set up this way.

Cheers,

Gus

Kinda what I was thinking. The ubiquitous "Ford starter-solenoid" comes to mind as the perfect component, and they are less than 10$, I believe.



Available at any auto-parts store, provided they know what your talking about and don't ask "for what vehicle its going on."

The trouble with a starter solenoid is they aren't continuously rated. Which for me means it would burn up at the start of a week long vacation. A continuously rated solenoid isn't much cheaper than the 1314.

Bruce

[bdosborn]

It seems to me that a relay or solenoid conected to the ignition would do the same thing. When the ignition is on the aux battery would be connected, when the ingition is off, disconnected. A relay wouldn't isolate two house batteries from each other but you could use a relay for each house battery that would solve this issue. I think you'd also want an a/b/both switch if you have two house batteries. Most boats are set up this way.

Cheers,

Gus

That would work but the 1314 is much easier to install. Just insert it in the charge line between the tow vehicle and the trailer battery. Add a ground connection and you're done. I don't have to trace out any factory wiring under the hood. And don't forget, I'm getting old so I'd forget to pick the right switch with a solenoid setup.

Bruce

[absolutsnwbrdr]

Ok so I'm new to the teardrop scene and am planning my own build right now. As far as electric is concerned I wasnt going to do anything right away. But I am now contemplating doing a simple DC only circuit with a deep cycle battery, a light, and a 12v outlet (and fuses and circuits and all that stuff)

Is this what I use to hook the trailer battery to my car battery in parallel, and basically forget about it?

[eamarquardt]

Everything in life is a compromise. You can do it "on the cheap" with a bit of work or pay a bit more and make it easy on yourself. It has been suggested that I ALWAYS make things difficult (and sometimes this is even the less expensive way but not always).

Cheers,

Gus

[bdosborn]

Ok so I'm new to the teardrop scene and am planning my own build right now. As far as electric is concerned I wasnt going to do anything right away. But I am now contemplating doing a simple DC only circuit with a deep cycle battery, a light, and a 12v outlet (and fuses and circuits and all that stuff)

Is this what I use to hook the trailer battery to my car battery in parallel, and basically forget about it?

I didn't have one on our first trailer, I just unplugged the trailer whenever we stopped. You could do that too and add a battery separator later if you decide you need one.

Bruce

[bdosborn]

The controller was easy to install and worked great, for a week. Now it stays on all the time, no mater if the trailer is connected to the truck or not and uses almost an amp of battery power while its doing nothing. I must have gotten a bad one. So far I can't recommend it.
Bruce

[absolutsnwbrdr]

Sorry to hear! Hopefully its just a dud. Have you contacted the company about replacing it? I'd really like to use this thing in my setup. I guess there are other options, but this one seemed so simple.

Keep us posted!

[bdosborn]

Sorry to hear! Hopefully its just a dud. Have you contacted the company about replacing it? I'd really like to use this thing in my setup. I guess there are other options, but this one seemed so simple.

Keep us posted!

Well I took the isolator out and I'm going to send it back to Sure Power. In the mean time, I found a list of other isolators I'm going to read up on in case the Sure Power doesn't work out. Near as I can tell the Sure Power is the only unidirectional option.

1) Yandina
2) Blue Sea ACR 7610
3) Xantrex PathMaker

Bruce
P.S. So far I think I like the Yandina.

[bdosborn]

I spoke to Sure Power today and discussed the Sure Power 1314 and learned some interesting facts.

The separator needs to be mounted in a convenient location "near" the main battery. Apparently it voids the warranty to locate the separator in a trailer as that's not "near". I asked him what "near" meant and he said that meant under the hood of the tow vehicle. So why don't they say that in the installation manual? He went on to explain that most of their products are installed by "truckers and mechanics" so apparently they know what "near" is. Anyways, this product is NOT designed to be installed remotely in a Teardrop or Travel Trailer. Despite that fact that its states in their sales brochure that its "universally suited for mounting in tow vehicle or towable".

He also stated that oscillations from flashers such as can be found on tow trucks are a problem, hinting that perhaps there was something in my truck electrical system damaged the unit. No mention of that issue in the sales info or the installation guide.

In short, it’s appears to be a delicate device that's quite sensitive to voltage variations.

I got a return goods authorization and mailed it back but I'm not holding my breath. ..

Bruce

[Ward]

Sorry to hear about your bad luck, I will take note on that company!

On both my F350 and my Acadia the factory 7 blade Rv plug have a 12 volt hot to charge anything being towed. I made a contraption that is a rv plug on one end and large aligator clips on the other end to charge my trolling motor battery while I do my normal driving. This works great and when I turn the switch off the circuit to the 12v is turned off.

This should be something you could do quite easily for your TV. Just trace the Hot wire back to your fuse box and move it to a place that is controlled by the ignition ( you can locate one with a simple tester) or You could install a switch in the cab of your vehicle to turn off the power to your trailer. The later won't do much if you forget to turn it off but it would be easier than unplugging the trailer everytime.

Regards

[absolutsnwbrdr]

I read the instructions on their site and they seemed pretty clear to me.... and I'm certainly no trucker. I have their site bookmarked so I can come back to it later. Hopefully I have better results.