New WFCO 8725

[curveball42]

Okay... just started installing my 8725. I have a weird DC issue when I connect it. It works just fine when there is no fuse in the Red DC input circuit. I tried to put a 15 amp fuse in and it blows... once the fuse blows (or is not installed) any of the 3 DC branch circuits work just fine.

I am going to try a bigger fuse, but can't figure out why it works with the blown fuse on the DC input...

Also there are two cabin lights and a fantastic fan on the dc circuit before it gets to the wfco... wondering if that is part of my problem...

Going direct to battery seems more hassle than it is worth since the factory wiring is all hidden pretty well in the walls... I guess alternatively I can mount the wfco in a box on the tongue if I want it ahead of all the appliances...

Any help or advice is much appreciated.
Thanks

[Shadow Catcher]

There is a reverse battery connection fuse "If the reverse polarity fuse is blown, it means the RV battery was accidentally connected in reverse, either at the battery or at the converter. Connect the battery properly and then replace with ATC “Littelfuse “ Type 257 fuse."
I know it is terribly un male but the instruction manual has trouble shooting procedures and the toll free help number

[S. Heisley]

Going direct to battery seems more hassle than it is worth

The way I understand it, the converter 'knows' when to use the battery and when not to. I believe that if the converter is receiving ac power, it uses that. Otherwise, the battery is used.

Shadow Catcher is right. Pay close attention to the Installation/Operators manual. Read it more than once because, the way it is written, it is easy to miss something important. Oh, and it does sound like maybe a reverse polarity issue. You might try disconnecting the battery and putting tape over those disconnected wires. Then, try your lights and fan and see if they work okay that way. If so, look at how the battery was wired. The installation manual tells you to try the above first; so, follow the written procedures given there. Don't just go by what I have written.

Or, take the easy way: The free 800 phone number in the manual has a fellow on the other end that is cool headed and very well versed to help. He'll know right off.

[dh]

Or, take the easy way: The free 800 phone number in the manual has a fellow on the other end that is cool headed and very well versed to help. He'll know right off.

[curveball42]

OK... think it is all figured out now. The DC red input fuse was blowing because there was a short circuit. Not sure exactly what it was, but I think it was due to exposed wire at ends of the wire (connected with the easy connectors that crimp the middle of the wire but can leave the end of the wire exposed). I am pretty sure that the exposed wires were contacting this weird insulation that looks like bubble wrap with a tin foil outer skin...

Put electric tape over the wires and seems to have solved the problem.

Hated to open the wall panels but found it quick enough.

The blown circuit on the WFCO didn't affect the DC circuit because I had it wired wrong.

I was getting pretty close to calling tech support, but used a volt meter to find the current on the negative wire... Only thing I can't figure out is why everything was working without the power convertor in place??

Thanks to everyone for the input.

[S. Heisley]

OK... think it is all figured out now. The DC red input fuse was blowing because there was a short circuit. Not sure exactly what it was, but I think it was due to exposed wire at ends of the wire (connected with the easy connectors that crimp the middle of the wire but can leave the end of the wire exposed). I am pretty sure that the exposed wires were contacting this weird insulation that looks like bubble wrap with a tin foil outer skin...

Put electric tape over the wires and seems to have solved the problem.

Hated to open the wall panels but found it quick enough.

The blown circuit on the WFCO didn't affect the DC circuit because I had it wired wrong.

I was getting pretty close to calling tech support, but used a volt meter to find the current on the negative wire... Only thing I can't figure out is why everything was working without the power convertor in place??

Interesting. I wouldn't have guessed that from what you wrote. I'm surprised you didn't test everything before it was closed up; but then, I don't know how yours is built. Maybe there was a reason that you couldn't do that.

If you haven't already done so and your wall is still open, you might want to warm that tape a bit with a match or lighter so that the tape stays in place better. Sometimes tape comes loose...wouldn't want you to have to open the wall again. Shrink sleeves are considered a better choice but you can come really close to a shrink on tape this way.

[Engineer Guy]

I used the Insulation you refer to in our new House. Best stuff since sliced Bread:

http://www.astrofoil.net/

The aluminized surface acts identical to 'Space Blanket' material. It reflects ~97% of Infrared [IR] heat back into the room or Trailer volume. Plus, taped off properly, it acts as a Vapor Barrier under Drywall. A scrap of it heats you up on a chilly night much better than any blanket, and also acts as a 'natural' Electric Blanket under a Bed bottom sheet. The single or double 'bubble pak' air gap further insulates, just as air 'bubbles' insulate in Fiberglass Insulation. There's also a version w/o 'bubbles'. We used that type just under the Roof OSB to keep the Attic >30 degrees cooler in the Summer. ~$250- up front; a guano-load of energy savings over the years.

Since your Trailer foil was grounded by penetrating screws, I suspect this. At the Electrical Box, 115 VAC Neutral is bonded to 3rd prong Earth Ground. Only when a 3 prong device like the WFCO Converter is plugged in would Neutral and Earth [Trailer] Ground connect. Current from any load flows through Neutral [the larger slot to the left on any 115 VAC Outlet]. By design, no current flows through Earth Ground except when something shorts to ground. This Neutral leg current flow, non-existent in +12 VDC, 2 lead wiring, could have been the culprit. Just a theory...

So, the foil was grounded to the Trailer wall and one side of the 'floating' Trailer Ground [floating from Power Box Ground] only when the Converter was not plugged in.

Heat Shrink Tubing, shrunk into place with a Heat Gun or a Match or Lighter held below, is neato stuff for fail safe connections. Put on and shrink 2 overlapped pieces of it for under-Trailer wiring exposed to water or dirt or salt.

[Shadow Catcher]

There is also heat shrink tape.

[GeoDrop]

Does the 8725 allow you to power your DC circuits via the battery even when there is not AC power being supplied to the unit?

Okay... just started installing my 8725. I have a weird DC issue when I connect it. It works just fine when there is no fuse in the Red DC input circuit. I tried to put a 15 amp fuse in and it blows... once the fuse blows (or is not installed) any of the 3 DC branch circuits work just fine.

I am going to try a bigger fuse, but can't figure out why it works with the blown fuse on the DC input...

Also there are two cabin lights and a fantastic fan on the dc circuit before it gets to the wfco... wondering if that is part of my problem...

Going direct to battery seems more hassle than it is worth since the factory wiring is all hidden pretty well in the walls... I guess alternatively I can mount the wfco in a box on the tongue if I want it ahead of all the appliances...

Any help or advice is much appreciated.
Thanks

[Shadow Catcher]

Like the Progressive Dynamics version they are 12V fuse panel/110 circuit breaker and everything is routed through them and yes they work whether you have 110 or not. Simplifies wring great dea.

[GeoDrop]

Yea.. I'm kinda diggin this panel.

Like the Progressive Dynamics version they are 12V fuse panel/110 circuit breaker and everything is routed through them and yes they work whether you have 110 or not. Simplifies wring great dea.

[Shadow Catcher]

This is the manual for the one that is in ours http://www.progressivedyn.com/110145_PD4000_Manual.pdf part way down you can see the electrical hookups in back. Plus the charger is one of the most advanced and at 45A charges the battery quickly.

I used ours to revive a deep cycle batter that runs an emergency sump pump.

[dh]

Elixer Industries, and many others also make similar products. Google "RV Power Center" and see what comes up. Or, better yet, get your hands on a used one. I got mine used for half the price of a new one.

EDIT:

Check out these guys http://www.bestconverter.com/

Yea.. I'm kinda diggin this panel.

Like the Progressive Dynamics version they are 12V fuse panel/110 circuit breaker and everything is routed through them and yes they work whether you have 110 or not. Simplifies wring great dea.