Running Electric to shed

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Running Electric to shed

Postby Creamcracker » Sat May 07, 2011 11:36 am

Ok....I just had my new shed placed in our yard and I want to run electric to the shed. I've had a professional come and they will shortly give me a quote however I know from the conversation that it's going to be more than I can afford at the moment to run power. So...can I put an Electric Male Inlet on the side of the shed (just like on my teardrop) and use an extension cord (from my deck to the inlet) when I'm out there working? In the shed I could put a small box connected to the inlet and then run a couple of sockets and a light?......

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Postby Larwyn » Sat May 07, 2011 12:31 pm

I don't see why not. My shop has been on a 10 gauge extension cord for 4 years now. I have just been too lazy to dig a trench out there I reckon. It works okay, just don't try to run too much at once. I still plan to run an underground service out there some day. :oops:
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Re: Running Electric to shed

Postby Dale M. » Sat May 07, 2011 12:52 pm

Creamcracker wrote:Ok....I just had my new shed placed in our yard and I want to run electric to the shed. I've had a professional come and they will shortly give me a quote however I know from the conversation that it's going to be more than I can afford at the moment to run power. So...can I put an Electric Male Inlet on the side of the shed (just like on my teardrop) and use an extension cord (from my deck to the inlet) when I'm out there working? In the shed I could put a small box connected to the inlet and then run a couple of sockets and a light?......

Philip


You could dig your own trench.... Lay in some (3/4 inch) plastic electrical conduit.... Run some 12 gauge wire (romex) in the conduit, terminate it in shed with a GFI outlet...

And just have electrician do physical connect to "house service panel" if you are not comfortable with making actual connections.... There is no need to pay for a lot of labor that you may be able to do your self...

I just did about same thing to two of my out building so I can have lights and power for any inside work (mainly did one for battery charger for lawn tractor)...

Dale
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Re: Running Electric to shed

Postby Creamcracker » Sat May 07, 2011 1:20 pm

Dale M. wrote:
Creamcracker wrote:Ok....I just had my new shed placed in our yard and I want to run electric to the shed. I've had a professional come and they will shortly give me a quote however I know from the conversation that it's going to be more than I can afford at the moment to run power. So...can I put an Electric Male Inlet on the side of the shed (just like on my teardrop) and use an extension cord (from my deck to the inlet) when I'm out there working? In the shed I could put a small box connected to the inlet and then run a couple of sockets and a light?......

Philip


You could dig your own trench.... Lay in some (3/4 inch) plastic electrical conduit.... Run some 12 gauge wire (romex) in the conduit, terminate it in shed with a GFI outlet...

And just have electrician do physical connect to "house service panel" if you are not comfortable with making actual connections.... There is no need to pay for a lot of labor that you may be able to do your self...

I just did about same thing to two of my out building so I can have lights and power for any inside work (mainly did one for battery charger for lawn tractor)...

Dale

You're right..but then I'd have to pay for a electrical permit...wait for an inspection etc....etc.....
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Re: Running Electric to shed

Postby eamarquardt » Sat May 07, 2011 1:24 pm

Dale M. wrote:
You could dig your own trench.... Lay in some (3/4 inch) plastic electrical conduit.... Run some 12 gauge wire (romex) in the conduit, terminate it in shed with a GFI outlet...

And just have electrician do physical connect to "house service panel" if you are not comfortable with making actual connections.... There is no need to pay for a lot of labor that you may be able to do your self...

I just did about same thing to two of my out building so I can have lights and power for any inside work (mainly did one for battery charger for lawn tractor)...

Dale


Dale's right it's not a complicated project and mostly "grunt work". I'd recommend getting a permit (if required) as if there is ever a problem your insurance company can't use "unpermitted/uninspected" as an excuse to deny any claim. Granted this is unlikely but permits are "cheap insurance" IMHO.

Also, Romex is not typically run in conduit and doing so may violate your local building code. Also Romex isn't rated for underground service.

Hope this helps.

Cheers,

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Postby StandUpGuy » Sat May 07, 2011 8:36 pm

I assisted my Electrician brother in running a new underground line from my house to a detached garage. It was pretty involved. Drilling a hole through the limestone foundation using specific water tight conduit with water tight connections in a trench. It was no small job.

One option to consider is (it is perfectly legal) to run a line overhead in the air. If your run is not to far you can consider a tall post at the shed to accept the overhead run.
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Postby eamarquardt » Sat May 07, 2011 8:45 pm

StandUpGuy wrote:It was pretty involved.


Depends upon your definition of "involved". I changed the water pump on my Ford Van this week. Did a bit of research on the net first to learn the ins and outs. Even a "professional mechanic" said it was a difficult task for him and other's said it should only be tackled by a professional as you have to jack the engine up about 5" off the mounts. In reality, IMHO, it was pretty simple when taken step by step. Nothing really difficult, nothing particularly hard to get to (changing the spark plugs was more difficult, IMHO), and lifting the engine was as easy as removing two nuts, two bolts, the radiator hoses, and jacking away. That was really the easiest part.

I say do your research, and do it yourself. A professional electrical supply house should be able to advise you on the correct stuff to use.

Cheers,

Gus
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Postby Dale M. » Sat May 07, 2011 9:15 pm

Lets not get into the ins and out of this to much.... You can legally bury plastic electrical conduit.... Complicated???? No it's shovel work.. I think only requirement is trench has to be 18 inches deep and you have to bury yellow "Do Not Dig" caution tape 6 inches below grade as you back fill trench..... PVC conduit, its a simple as a saw and primer and glue (pretty much like CPVC water piping) ... All the box and turns ( 45° & 90°) and couplers are all at big box store just waiting for you....

Gees guys they even make direct burial romex that does not even need to be in conduit...

Yes typically one does not put romex in conduit... But previous owner of property used 14 ga. 2 wire romex (no ground) for run to first shed from breaker in pedestal, I used old romex as pull tape when I pulled in 12 ga. 3 wire (with ground)... OK so it was not "correct" but then it would be no more difficult to pull in a white, black, green 12 ga. loose wires...

As for permits its not to much ($) ... And there is probably no charge for inspections.... And in most states there is no laws saying work has to be done by certified electrician.... All the installation has to do is pass inspection...

Can't dig trench because of a "condition" hire local neighborhood kid who is out to prove how much stronger he is than the "old man"...

Just for giggles go to GOOGLE and select IMAGES and use search string "pvc electrical conduit fittings"..

IF one can not do this simple job how does one expect to build a TD?

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Postby Creamcracker » Sat May 07, 2011 10:54 pm

Dale M. wrote:Lets not get into the ins and out of this to much.... You can legally bury plastic electrical conduit.... Complicated???? No it's shovel work.. I think only requirement is trench has to be 18 inches deep and you have to bury yellow "Do Not Dig" caution tape 6 inches below grade as you back fill trench..... PVC conduit, its a simple as a saw and primer and glue (pretty much like CPVC water piping) ... All the box and turns ( 45° & 90°) and couplers are all at big box store just waiting for you....

Gees guys they even make direct burial romex that does not even need to be in conduit...

Yes typically one does not put romex in conduit... But previous owner of property used 14 ga. 2 wire romex (no ground) for run to first shed from breaker in pedestal, I used old romex as pull tape when I pulled in 12 ga. 3 wire (with ground)... OK so it was not "correct" but then it would be no more difficult to pull in a white, black, green 12 ga. loose wires...

As for permits its not to much ($) ... And there is probably no charge for inspections.... And in most states there is no laws saying work has to be done by certified electrician.... All the installation has to do is pass inspection...

Can't dig trench because of a "condition" hire local neighborhood kid who is out to prove how much stronger he is than the "old man"...

Just for giggles go to GOOGLE and select IMAGES and use search string "pvc electrical conduit fittings"..

IF one can not do this simple job how does one expect to build a TD?

Dale

One's definition of "simple" varies with expertise........as regards building with wood now that's simple...electricity on the other hand well that's a whole other story........thanks for your response based on your experince Larwyn.....that's the sort of temporary solution I'm looking for..
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K.I.S.S.

Postby Engineer Guy » Sun May 08, 2011 8:38 am

Lotsa good points above, as usual...

Given your reservations, I weigh in on the Temp solution of a run of stout Power Cord. In an ideal World, add a GFI [or 'recycle' an existing Outlet upgraded with a GFI] in a weatherproof Box at the House. Latest Code need around here, and good safety idea, is a Box Cover of Plastic with a 'hump' molded into it. When closed, it covers a plugged in Cord end. At Home Despot, I also saw a neato 'accordion pleat'-type of outdoor Box Cover. It stretches out to then cover a plugged-in Cord End. The GFI will protect the cable run starting at the House, right from the get-go. I installed such a set up at my stand-alone Power Meter Pedestal 'just because'. It was to Code and signed off as part of original new House construction. I've also put Wire in Conduit [for Water Well power], and used Direct Burial-rated Cable.

Use something like a 6 Receptacle Outlet Strip at the Shed. Upgrade later to something more permanent, if it suits you.

Something about Larwyn's answer just hit my funny bone. Been there, done that:

I still plan to run an underground service out there some day.

As I say about myself, and when I finally get around to things: "Putting the 'Pro' back in 'Procrastination'"!
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Re: K.I.S.S.

Postby Larwyn » Sun May 08, 2011 1:06 pm

Engineer Guy wrote:Lotsa good points above, as usual...

Given your reservations, I weigh in on the Temp solution of a run of stout Power Cord. In an ideal World, add a GFI [or 'recycle' an existing Outlet upgraded with a GFI] in a weatherproof Box at the House. Latest Code need around here, and good safety idea, is a Box Cover of Plastic with a 'hump' molded into it. When closed, it covers a plugged in Cord end. At Home Despot, I also saw a neato 'accordion pleat'-type of outdoor Box Cover. It stretches out to then cover a plugged-in Cord End. The GFI will protect the cable run starting at the House, right from the get-go. I installed such a set up at my stand-alone Power Meter Pedestal 'just because'. It was to Code and signed off as part of original new House construction. I've also put Wire in Conduit [for Water Well power], and used Direct Burial-rated Cable.

Use something like a 6 Receptacle Outlet Strip at the Shed. Upgrade later to something more permanent, if it suits you.

Something about Larwyn's answer just hit my funny bone. Been there, done that:

I still plan to run an underground service out there some day.

As I say about myself, and when I finally get around to things: "Putting the 'Pro' back in 'Procrastination'"!


I haven't even told the worse of it. I completely wired the shop with stranded 12 gauge THHN in 3/4" EMT conduit. There is a square outlet box with 4 outlets every 4 feet on every wall. I have 4 fluorescent light fixtures and 2 incandescent on individual 3 way switches at both doors (that's twelve 3 way switches to control 6 lights). All this is powered from a 100 amp breaker panel which is plugged into an extension cord running across the ground from the house (yes it is plugged in to a GFCI outlet). I have the two hot bus bars in the breaker panel tied together temporarily so everything will work. Maybe some day I'll dig that ditch..... :lol: :lol:
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