overwhelmed

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overwhelmed

Postby nrody » Wed Jun 01, 2011 6:12 pm

:oops: I am so confused. If I use the "super simple" wiring shore power input with power strip and gfci, do I need a converter if my fan is wired for 12v?
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Postby starleen2 » Wed Jun 01, 2011 6:26 pm

you will need some type of converter to convert 120 V ac to 12 vdc
something like this

Image

http://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-120AC-12V-Power-Converter/dp/B0012BL8LG
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Postby Steve_Cox » Wed Jun 01, 2011 7:01 pm

nrody wrote::oops: I am so confused. If I use the "super simple" wiring shore power input with power strip and gfci, do I need a converter if my fan is wired for 12v?

starleen2 wrote:you will need some type of converter to convert 120 V ac to 12 vdc
something like this
Image


Or you might just use a 12 volt battery for the fan.... many folks use 12 volts for fan and lights. That way they don't have to run an extension cord or carry a flashlight to see in the dark.
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Postby eamarquardt » Wed Jun 01, 2011 7:02 pm

Unless you plan on camping only where there are hookups you’re gonna want a battery installed in your trailer. If you have a battery, IMHO, you don’t need a converter. A battery will provide more current (for a short period of time) than all but the largest converters and can meet all your 12 volt needs . A small 4 amp battery charger can provide nearly 100 amp/hours over a 24 hour period. That’s a lot of 12 volt power. In addition, a good multi stage charger will properly charge your battery while you are using your battery while a simple converter wont. In addition, a battery charger can keep your battery properly charged while your trailer isn’t being used. Again, a simple converter can’t do so.

So, if you have a battery, use a charger. If you don't want a battery, get a converter big enough to power all the things you plan on running at once.

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Postby dh » Wed Jun 01, 2011 9:15 pm

Or you could go with the super complex electrical system.

A converter/charger power center like the WFCO's...

Connect all AC and DC circuits to the WFCO, connect 110v shore power and your battery. Everything is automatic, on shore power, it will charge your battery in multiple stages and run your DC circuits off the internal convrter. Without AC shore power, all DC circuits run off battery, and you have no power to any AC circuits. All circuits terminate in a single "box", and you have an AC and DC distribution pannle as well, with a fuse block on the DC side and breakers on the AC side.

Just an option while things are getting thrown out there.
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Postby eamarquardt » Wed Jun 01, 2011 10:45 pm

dh wrote:Or you could go with the super complex electrical system.


KISS me!

Cheers,

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Head Spinning

Postby nrody » Wed Jun 01, 2011 11:29 pm

:? Ok guys everything you are telling me I have read about a dozen times already and I thank you all for your expert knowledge. I guess I really don't know what I need. My tear has a half galley hatch so extra space there is limited and I don't think I can manage a battery there. My door is forward over the tongue so I can't have a tongue box. I am really ok with battery operated Coleman lantern lantern for interior lights but I also bought some nice little airline type lights that I would like to use instead, and I do have a small ventline fan that is 12v.

Any creative Ideas with where to put a battery?

I really am starting to panic cause I don't know what to do.
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Postby Juneaudave » Wed Jun 01, 2011 11:40 pm

Here is a thought....If you still have access to the frame and are putting in a new floor, you could mount a battery box on the frame under the floor and access the batttery through a hatch. Here is Danny's setup....

Image
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Postby nrody » Wed Jun 01, 2011 11:47 pm

That is an option. I guess I would be concerned about clearance.
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Clearance

Postby nrody » Wed Jun 01, 2011 11:51 pm

I just measured and I have 18'' from the ground to the bottom of the trailer.
What is the height of a battery + rack?
Then we get to the battery question. A lot of opinions out there of what kind of battery to use.
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Postby nrody » Thu Jun 02, 2011 12:59 am

Hi Slow,
The tongue box wont work. My door opens over the tongue. My galley area only has a half hatch, so when I open it, the bottom half is more like a bin that is accessed from a counter top door. I would post a pic but an challenged in that area too.
If you can see my gallery you can check it out. I think I may be able to mount it under th frame.
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Postby GeoDrop » Thu Jun 02, 2011 8:54 am

For a few lights and fan, you probably don't need a full size battery. Look for something a little smaller that might be a little more conducive to your limited space.


nrody wrote:Hi Slow,
The tongue box wont work. My door opens over the tongue. My galley area only has a half hatch, so when I open it, the bottom half is more like a bin that is accessed from a counter top door. I would post a pic but an challenged in that area too.
If you can see my gallery you can check it out. I think I may be able to mount it under th frame.
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Postby StandUpGuy » Thu Jun 02, 2011 10:10 am

I am going without battery or converter. I plan to camp where there is electricity. If you only are thinking of adding lights and a fan why not simply add AC electric lights and a fan instead of DC? What exactly is the point of bringing in AC power only to convert it to DC? I don't get it.
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Postby droid_ca » Thu Jun 02, 2011 10:30 am

nrodywhat is your tow vehicle ? could you put your battery in it or you could build a battery box that is portable and sits under your trailer when its parked
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Postby dh » Thu Jun 02, 2011 1:59 pm

Do you mean a small ventline, not a fantastic type? They sell battery holders, I'm not talking big bulky batteries, 'D' size, maybe a 'C' battery, 8 of them in series will give you 12 volts, and should power the fan through the night. Just use rechargables and charge on your AC circuit.
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