AC Hacking a Figidaire 5000 BTU

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Re: AC Hacking a Figidaire 5000 BTU

Postby williaty » Tue Aug 24, 2021 11:20 am

Shadow Catcher wrote:Lots of info

You mentioned a couple of times that you use a diesel air heater with this setup, which is what I'm actually working on right now. Do you have a thread about your heater setup? I couldn't make the search function turn anything up for me.
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Re: AC Hacking a Figidaire 5000 BTU

Postby Shadow Catcher » Tue Aug 24, 2021 4:52 pm

This is an Espar heater with fuel tank, the hoses are a bit higher temperature. However I switched to using the heat from our water heater so it is not being used.

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Re: AC Hacking a Figidaire 5000 BTU

Postby williaty » Tue Sep 07, 2021 1:46 pm

Shadow Catcher wrote:This is an Espar heater with fuel tank, the hoses are a bit higher temperature. However I switched to using the heat from our water heater so it is not being used.

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Further question about your previous Espar setup. The deck plates you used are rated to 180F while the air from one of these diesel heaters is 220F or more. How did you keep the air heater from melting the deck plate once you glued the duct to the deck plate insert?
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Re: AC Hacking a Figidaire 5000 BTU

Postby Socal Tom » Tue Sep 07, 2021 1:58 pm

williaty wrote:
Shadow Catcher wrote:This is an Espar heater with fuel tank, the hoses are a bit higher temperature. However I switched to using the heat from our water heater so it is not being used.

78194 78193 78192 78191

Further question about your previous Espar setup. The deck plates you used are rated to 180F while the air from one of these diesel heaters is 220F or more. How did you keep the air heater from melting the deck plate once you glued the duct to the deck plate insert?

Where did you find information that the air coming out of the espar is 220F? That would be hazardous to human skin.
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Re: AC Hacking a Figidaire 5000 BTU

Postby williaty » Tue Sep 07, 2021 2:00 pm

Socal Tom wrote:Where did you find information that the air coming out of the espar is 220F? That would be hazardous to human skin.

Multiple people on youtube show temperature measurements of a bunch of different places. All of them show the output air for the interior heating being in the 180-240F range depending on heater setting, inlet air temp, etc.
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Re: AC Hacking a Figidaire 5000 BTU

Postby Socal Tom » Tue Sep 07, 2021 2:16 pm

williaty wrote:
Socal Tom wrote:Where did you find information that the air coming out of the espar is 220F? That would be hazardous to human skin.

Multiple people on youtube show temperature measurements of a bunch of different places. All of them show the output air for the interior heating being in the 180-240F range depending on heater setting, inlet air temp, etc.


The safety cutoff kicks in if the heating chamber gets over 240F, it seems odd that the output air would get almost that hot on the way out. Do you have a link to one of the videos. I looked at several an none did the temp testing.
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Re: AC Hacking a Figidaire 5000 BTU

Postby williaty » Tue Sep 07, 2021 2:29 pm

Socal Tom wrote:
williaty wrote:
Socal Tom wrote:Where did you find information that the air coming out of the espar is 220F? That would be hazardous to human skin.

Multiple people on youtube show temperature measurements of a bunch of different places. All of them show the output air for the interior heating being in the 180-240F range depending on heater setting, inlet air temp, etc.


The safety cutoff kicks in if the heating chamber gets over 240F, it seems odd that the output air would get almost that hot on the way out. Do you have a link to one of the videos. I looked at several an none did the temp testing.
Tom

https://youtu.be/uBBpyRD1Igc?t=29

Timestamp takes you right to the outlet air temp reading.
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Re: AC Hacking a Figidaire 5000 BTU

Postby Socal Tom » Tue Sep 07, 2021 2:43 pm

williaty wrote:
Socal Tom wrote:
williaty wrote:
Socal Tom wrote:Where did you find information that the air coming out of the espar is 220F? That would be hazardous to human skin.

Multiple people on youtube show temperature measurements of a bunch of different places. All of them show the output air for the interior heating being in the 180-240F range depending on heater setting, inlet air temp, etc.


The safety cutoff kicks in if the heating chamber gets over 240F, it seems odd that the output air would get almost that hot on the way out. Do you have a link to one of the videos. I looked at several an none did the temp testing.
Tom

https://youtu.be/uBBpyRD1Igc?t=29

Timestamp takes you right to the outlet air temp reading.


I'm surprised it gets that hot, but that is worst case. I'm sure it loses some heat as it moves through the hose.
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Re: AC Hacking a Figidaire 5000 BTU

Postby Shadow Catcher » Mon Sep 13, 2021 1:31 pm

The hose is high temp and quite frankly this was never used with the tear, it was in the garage. We have a small marine electric heater and my wife is shall we say a fair weather camper. I probably should sell it as it is not being used.
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Re:

Postby StandUpGuy » Tue Jan 04, 2022 10:03 pm

Shadow Catcher wrote:I have added a picture of the inside of the adapter.
Hey I remember this thread from when you were creating it way back then. I was considering all of this in my soon to be new build. It seems that there are several short comings in all of this. One being that it needs to be set up at campsite each time and two, being that the restriction of the hoses creates a flow problem. Obviously all of this is to try to eliminate some of the bone rattling noise of an AC in a small trailer.

I am trying to work out a different version where the window AC unit is permanently housed in a tongue box with some sort of sound buffering short ducting perhaps made of soft rubber. The storage box would also need to be somehow insulated from the trailer frame to further reduce vibration and noise. The controls would need to be rewired to be inside as you have done. Is it possible to greatly reduce the noise this way?



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Re: AC Hacking a Figidaire 5000 BTU

Postby Shadow Catcher » Wed Jan 05, 2022 7:53 am

Anything that physically isolates the AC from a mechanical/physical connection will reduce sound transmission. from 14+ years experience now, a good percentage of the time ours gets left home. I will be interested in seeing what you come up with.
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Re: Re:

Postby working on it » Wed Jan 05, 2022 9:06 am

StandUpGuy wrote:... It seems that there are several short comings in all of this. One being that it needs to be set up at campsite each time and two, being that the restriction of the hoses creates a flow problem. Obviously all of this is to try to eliminate some of the bone rattling noise of an AC in a small trailer.

I am trying to work out a different version where the window AC unit is permanently housed in a tongue box with some sort of sound buffering short ducting perhaps made of soft rubber. The storage box would also need to be somehow insulated from the trailer frame to further reduce vibration and noise. The controls would need to be rewired to be inside as you have done. Is it possible to greatly reduce the noise this way?....


Didn't hack my A/C, but mounted on the rear bulkhead between cabin and galley. Firmly mounted, with no rattling nor noise.
definition of noise.JPG
definition of noise.JPG (43.66 KiB) Viewed 1657 times


Of course, the humming drone of the A/C compressor is virtually a "white noise" that helps me sleep, by covering sounds from outside the cabin, and partially obscuring my tinnitus. Ever since we used window units back in the 50's thru 70's, I always regarded the sound of running window units as soothing. Maybe it's just my opinion.

Instead of putting my A/C unit outside in the elements, subject to damage, theft, or possibly a short circuit (of the controls), I did a different "hack" by making my A/C exhaust exit to the side thru ducting, and I can close and lock my galley hatch while it's running overnite. Sure, it takes up a lot of galley space, and I'd probably route the exhaust straight back thru the hatch instead of at a right-angle, but there's been no problems (nor flow restrictions) to worry about, for nine years of use.https://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=54945&hilit=+ac+install
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Re: Re:

Postby StandUpGuy » Wed Jan 05, 2022 10:07 am

working on it wrote:
StandUpGuy wrote:... It seems that there are several short comings in all of this. One being that it needs to be set up at campsite each time and two, being that the restriction of the hoses creates a flow problem. Obviously all of this is to try to eliminate some of the bone rattling noise of an AC in a small trailer.

I am trying to work out a different version where the window AC unit is permanently housed in a tongue box with some sort of sound buffering short ducting perhaps made of soft rubber. The storage box would also need to be somehow insulated from the trailer frame to further reduce vibration and noise. The controls would need to be rewired to be inside as you have done. Is it possible to greatly reduce the noise this way?....


Didn't hack my A/C, but mounted on the rear bulkhead between cabin and galley. Firmly mounted, with no rattling nor noise.
definition of noise.JPG



Of course, the humming drone of the A/C compressor is virtually a "white noise" that helps me sleep, by covering sounds from outside the cabin, and partially obscuring my tinnitus. Ever since we used window units back in the 50's thru 70's, I always regarded the sound of running window units as soothing. Maybe it's just my opinion.

Instead of putting my A/C unit outside in the elements, subject to damage, theft, or possibly a short circuit (of the controls), I did a different "hack" by making my A/C exhaust exit to the side thru ducting, and I can close and lock my galley hatch while it's running overnite. Sure, it takes up a lot of galley space, and I'd probably route the exhaust straight back thru the hatch instead of at a right-angle, but there's been no problems (nor flow restrictions) to worry about, for nine years of use.https://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=54945&hilit=+ac+install


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I built a trailer several years ago. I had an AC built into the pop top. It was very noisy. No doubt due to the thin loose panel it was built into. I do not find the white noise pleasant for sleeping. Even a window unit installed in a house window is not pleasant to me. Everyone is different. A low hum is fine with me as one gets from a small humidifier. My goal would be something like that.
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Re: Re:

Postby Socal Tom » Wed Jan 05, 2022 7:53 pm

StandUpGuy wrote:
Shadow Catcher wrote:I have added a picture of the inside of the adapter.
Hey I remember this thread from when you were creating it way back then. I was considering all of this in my soon to be new build. It seems that there are several short comings in all of this. One being that it needs to be set up at campsite each time

Image


I consider the fact you remove the AC unit a positive feature. I only use mine once in a while. This saves weight and space if I don't bring it. Set up only takes 5 minutes.
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Re: Re:

Postby StandUpGuy » Wed Jan 05, 2022 9:15 pm

Socal Tom wrote:
StandUpGuy wrote:
Shadow Catcher wrote:I have added a picture of the inside of the adapter.
Hey I remember this thread from when you were creating it way back then. I was considering all of this in my soon to be new build. It seems that there are several short comings in all of this. One being that it needs to be set up at campsite each time

Image


I consider the fact you remove the AC unit a positive feature. I only use mine once in a while. This saves weight and space if I don't bring it. Set up only takes 5 minutes.
Tom

I hear ya. Everybody has their own unique priorities as can be seen in the variety of trailers created. :beer:
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