HELP install of the breakers for 110 AC side of an WF 8900

[JeepThing]

I need some expert advise on the install of the breakers for the 110 AC side of an WF 8900 power converter
A) I'm not sure where the lines are supposed to go
B) Green to Ground - White to neutral - Black to Hot
C) on the converter itself there is a black wire available for branch circuit and a pin (black wire) pig tailed off of that for a branch breaker

So my question is how does the circuit it self going to get the benefit of the breaker? seems to me the shore power is just connected to the the breaker and circuit it self .

And does the hot of the shore power than go to the screw on the breaker as well as that black wire from the converter

Any help would be apreciated thanks

[Pyrofish]

The way I understand mine, which I'm about to install this weekend, is you connect the black wire with the pigtail into your 30 amp breaker. This powers the rest of the breakers. I don't plan to use the pigtail, but if you do, it's still protected by the 30amp breaker on the shore power side. I have the 8945, and I figure with one 20 amp going to my AC, and then 2 - 15amps going to random outlets, I'll still have one 15 amp breaker left open.

Here's a recent post with wiring diagram.
http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?t=45019&highlight=wfco

That said, be careful. If you're not comfortable with electricity, find someone who is to help. I'm still wrapping my head around all of this 12v stuff, but I have competent help should I stray from right There's no substitute for having someone watching/ helping you do the install. Good luck

[eamarquardt]

Big Guy and me (mostly me) were really confused when we assembled his converter. The diagram says the black wire is FROM the converter but it is really going TO the converter so the converter can generate 12DC. As I remember, you have two black pigtails. One goes into the master breaker and the other is your hot lead input to the AC distribution and the DC portion of the converter.

The master breaker feeds the buss bar, the buss bar feeds your breakers, and your AC branch circuits should be wired to the terminal on each of your breakers.

I thought the instructions/drawings were poor at best. Only after opening up the unit and seeing where the wires went was it clear (to me) how to wire it up.

This is my best recollection of how we installed it.

Hope this helps.

Cheers,

Gus

[JeepThing]

Thanks i think I understand now, The 110 VAC side needs the main breaker first than all other 110 VAC circuits feed off of that. That makes sense now. 12 VDC is a little simpler for me than the 110 side.

So another question is now I'll have three 110 VAC outlets and one will be GFCI receptacle, Should I wire that one first than follow the other two through the GFCI receptacle to make them all ground fault protected? Any draw backs to this idea ? And than can I get away with just one 15 amp breaker after the 30 amp main running the three receptacles in series?

[eamarquardt]

Daisy chaining receptacles off your GFI receptacle should be fine. They may make a GFI breaker that would do the same thing.

Cheers,

Gus

[Engineer Guy]

For some years now, any of the GFI Receptacles I've bought have one set of side Screws readily accessible. The 'hot' Electricity supply goes to those. The 2nd set of side Screws are covered with yellow tape that has to be peeled off. They are the GFI-protected 'outputs' that are wired to the 'input' [not Tape-covered] Screws of the next Receptacle daisy-chained in series. And, so on... Whether GFI'ed or not, something like 6 Receptacles [or more] can be connected in series on single Circuit.

Manufacturers also supply little printed labels ID'ing the subsequent Receptacles as being GFI-protected. This is because there aren't 'TEST' and 'RESET' Buttons on those Receptacles. These Labels are meant to be stuck on the Cover Plates of subsequent Receptacles.

There are 20 Amp GFI Receptacles, where the left Neutral slot has a horizontal 'tee' to it. The typical Code fine print is that all subsequent Receptacles also must be 20 Amp types. All wiring must be 20 Amp #12 Gauge, yellow-jacketed Romex or equivalent. Not worth it to me...

There are GFI Breakers, but they're mighty pricey. Note that there's '1/2- sized' Breakers where 2 separate Breakers fit into a 'standard' Breaker cutout.

[dh]

Daisy chaining multiple outlets together is just fine. But, lets say you have an AC unit that draws 10 amps, you may want to give it its own circuit, otherwise you will only have 5 amps of your 15A breaker left for other outlets. Personally, I'm giving the AC its own circuit, Gally outlets a circuit, cabin outlets a circuit, microwave its own circuit, and the 12V converter section of the power center its own circuit. Five circuits plus a main 30A breaker. Now, before somebody brings it up, I'm only getting this many circuits into the breaker pannle by using tandem breakers.

[JeepThing]

OK thanks guys and gals, just about got this part completed working on the hatch now as well, I seem to have about three or four tasks on the build going on at one time, keeping the interest level at full throttle.

[dh]

Funny how things get piled up and before you know it you have multiple tasks going on at the same time.