how is my layout for wiring the trailer for AC and DC

[hartk1213]

im not the best at drawing these out so bear with me...
what i want to do is try to build it on a budget and use an old computer powersupply as the DC converter and then use a battery tender to keep the battery charged i want to be able to use shore power to power everything when i have access to it and then when not just use the DC components with the battery
is there anything that i am missing or would this solution work for what i want thank you

Electrical Design.png (20.95 KiB) Viewed 1721 times

[H.A.]

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[hartk1213]

yes this will be in the US..what breaker should i have installed there instead?

[GuitarPhotog]

I assume you are plugging into 120Volt mains, (North America)
30 amp circuit breaker as shown would be improper if its connecting to typical NEMA 5-15 or 5-20 receptacles.

It should be no larger than 20A. You don't want to oversize the main breaker, then it won't trip but the shore power one (in the electrical tree) will in case of an overload that might damage or endanger the trailer wiring.

<Chas>

[MtnDon]

It seems to me that IF the cord you use to connect to shore power has a 20 amp plug and is 12 gauge or better you should use a 20 amp breaker in the TD. A breaker protects the wiring so should be matched to the wire.

[drshoe]

Ultimately, it depends on what you want to be able to plug in at once, but why not use 30A? It is not difficulty to find 30A outlets in US campgrounds. Although you'd want an A/C breaker box so you could protect your outlets with 20A breakers.

In all honesty - my guess is you would save time, money and headaches by purchasing a good power converter, they're not that expensive.

[troubleScottie]

Using a distribution box, you typically are going from power pedestal/shore to 50A/30A to 10/15/20A to device. The wiring from shore to 30A/50A would be heavier gauge and most likely have a connector in the side of the TD - the 30A/50A power inlet and a 30A/50A extension cord with appropriate plugs. The 30A/50A to the lower amperage circuit breakers is all done in the distribution box. The distribution box would have the connector to and from the breaker plus typically a place for DC fuses plus an optional converter for charging your battery. The nice thing about the distribution box is everything is there, enclosed, well displayed, organized and most likely UL approved. They are priced between $80-$200 depending on make, etc. Building you own is more work.

Typical Distribution Box, front side. Red is main AC breaker; Blue is AC breakers to your devices/outlets; Green is the DC fuses



Typical Electrical Pedestal Panel



Most pedestal have 50A, 30A, 20A and/or 15A service outlets. The 50A outlets are for the bigger RVs. It is highly unlikely a TD would ever need 50A service. However, some people do install 50A service.

Note each of these outlets has a different plug/connector and different wiring. They should not be considered interchangeable. There are breakers on the pedestal. However, one should never depend on them. Also you should electrically inspect the outlets to ensure they are properly powered. There are other references in tnttt about that.

If you are attempting to reduce cost/complexity/safety, one could as some do just run an extension cord(s) to the one or more power strips. If all you are doing is charging your phone, everything else is overkill.

[hartk1213]

Ok I have changed my decision and I purchased the PD4045 power converter so I no longer need to create my own charging circuit and DC converter I think this will be easier thanks for all the help