Using construction power distribution box

[mtntrekker30]

I'm start by saying I'm new here. thanks for having me. I'll also say that simple electrical is what I'm aiming for---literally plug and play. I saw the sticky on super simple electrical. Great post. Unfortunately it doesn't give me the amps I need. I'm interested in using a CCI x-treme power distribution box to plug in a mini fridge, 6000-10000 BTU window a/c, an electric space heater, and possibly a microwave. Most of the time I'll be plugging in to shore power. Here is a link to what I'm looking at. http://www.homedepot.com/p/CCI-Mini-X-T ... /300083159. Thank you all in advance.

[M C Toyer]

Welcome. Just a couple of questions to better understand your query:

Since this distribution box is rated for outdoor use do you plan to mount it outside of the trailer? Either way, how to you plan to run the wires from the box to the various appliances?

When you are not plugged into shore power do you plan on having a generator?

Do you plan on any 12 volt items such as lights, fan, radio/tv, small appliances, etc? If so, will you have a battery onboard and how will it be charged?

[H.A.]

Th.

[mtntrekker30]

Thanks for the reply. My plan is to place this distribution box inside the trailer, at the bottom of some framing and shelves (appliance cabinet) that will hold the a/c, fridge, and microwave all on top of each other. This should allow me to plug in everything in to one central power source. My plan is to place a small electrical cover that will allow me to pass an electrical cord to connect the distribution box to shore power or a generator. I'm not planning on having 12v, solar, etc. in my trailer (although I would love all of that) Im just looking to step up from sleeping in a tent. Hope that helps to clarify things.

[John61CT]

Question is why do you feel you need it?

What sort of generator will you carry for boondocking?

[Dale M.]

Basically you are paying premium dollar for a "Box for power" when you can probable do same concept for a bit less by custom wiring that better fits your needs... I don't see it as a solution to your power other than it is everything in one and then requires you to have a series of cords and maybe extension cords all over the place... I would stay with simple concept of getting small box that will probably house two GFCI breakers and do tradition runs of wire to a few strategically placed outlets...

Dale

[Pinstriper]

This thing "could work", but its only going to be plug n play if you have correct adaptor cord/cords to plug it in with.
Its intended to connect to 240v splitphase power. Some campgrounds furnish that in spaces intended for big trailers & RVs.
But if you have only 120v singlephase available, you will need to modify your connector cord to allow all its 120v outlets to function, or just live without 1/2 of them working.
Btw, good thing you intend its use indoors. Its a NEMA 1 enclosure. Its not suitable for exposure to weather.

I don't think he/she'll be able to drive a space heater or air conditioner plus a microwave on even a 20 amp circuit like you might find near a tent site (if you even do). So he'll be looking for an RV site with a 30 amp circuit anyway.

[working on it]

I'm start by saying I'm new here. thanks for having me. I'll also say that simple electrical is what I'm aiming for---literally plug and play. I saw the sticky on super simple electrical. Great post. Unfortunately it doesn't give me the amps I need. I'm interested in using a CCI x-treme power distribution box to plug in a mini fridge, 6000-10000 BTU window a/c, an electric space heater, and possibly a microwave. Most of the time I'll be plugging in to shore power. Here is a link to what I'm looking at. http://www.homedepot.com/p/CCI-Mini-X-T ... /300083159. Thank you all in advance.

and, from an earlier post

I'm looking at converting a cargo trailer to something I can sleep myself, wife, and 2 kids in. I'm excited to get started. Looking for a trailer around 7x12 with the largest v-nose possible. As well it must have an overall length of 16' 6" or less and an overall height of 94 inches or less

• Since you've stated that you're looking to use a cargo trailer, you'll have extra room inside for a more detailed electrical installation, than the "super simple" plan. The "ss electrical plan" was intended for use on smaller, home-built trailers with little or no extra room for the fuseboxes, AC/DC converters, and breaker boxes that are common to larger RV's.
• I used my own adaptation of the plan, using good quality extension cords for the 110vac supply, thru a series of GFCI outlets for protection. 14 gauge was all I needed to use, as I never will draw over 15 amps (even when I used my large fan, two mini-heaters, and my A/C unit all at once, to dry out my flooded cabin). The same gauge is usually used for my park power supply line (and the alternate supply, an on-board generator output cord), though I carry an extra supply of 16, 14, and 12 gauge cords, as well (also, 30a and 50a adapters). I later added a surge protection box, due to reading about park power problems that I wanted to avoid, and always use a tester to check the park power pole for correct polarity and grounds.
• But, I was trying to account for all contingencies, using easily sourced, quickly accessed, replaceable items for my 110vac, with no care taken for appearances, just functionality. However, your cargo trailer is another thing altogether, since you'll be furnishing a much larger area, probably insulting it, an with the safety of your family involved. You can hide your wiring behind a wall, and once hidden, it will need centrally located circuit protection, for quick problem resolutions (I have to check several places to find a tripped breaker). And, your desired equipment will be capable of drawing more amperage than mine, so perhaps you should consider forgoing the "simple" wiring, and stepping up to a 30 amp wiring plan, for a better power supply scheme.
• In that case, the proposed breaker/distribution box from Home Depot would suffice, and you could still use extension cords, plugged into it, and it would also accept a 30amp input from a larger generator than mine (mine's a 2500 watt). If that's your plan already, then it makes sense to me; if that box had been known to me before I built my trailer, I would've used it as a better solution to my piecemeal system, and I would've used my 6000 watt generator, instead of trading it for the 2500 watt (which I regret to this day). Go for it
• Don't write off using a 12vdc battery system, while you're building. Having it as a supplemental power supply can help in many ways. Interior and exterior LED lighting, computer case fans for quiet and efficient ventilation (when full A/C isn't needed), powering USB items and phone chargers, and short-term 12vdc-to-110vac power (thru an inverter) are why I included 12vdc in my build. In case of failed park power or having none available, even if the generator fails too, then your vehicle could power your trailer's needs, thru the 12vdc wiring.!

[mtntrekker30]

Thanks all you for your replys. I appreciate the feedback and will take it to consideration. I'm looking at this box because it is the simplest solution I have found for my needs. I know nothing about wiring, electrical, etc. so I don't want to attempt wiring my own trailer. I've seen too many things happen to people who don't know what they are doing with electricity. I know there are many people who are skilled in all things electrical. If anyone has any further suggestions I appreciate those. Again thank you all.